Leaking return system, ideas?

Morgonzo

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It took me a long time to find good Mehican too. Now if for some reason I ever want to eat at a Waffle House....we got those in spades!

IdIot, with all that brass going on, it would be awesome to have a set of brass return caps to set it all off. Who was talking about making those recently....against that blue engine..that'd look tight.
 

crash-harris

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That would be riotwarrior.

I just posted up a link his thread that I found on another forum that's along those lines.
 

IDIoit

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i have some aluminum ones, they fit me well.

not many of my fittings are brass, most are stainless.
and i will have blue anodized AN fittings.
 

crash-harris

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Where did your aluminum ones come from?

I can't recall if you fabbed them or if they were made by someone else...
 

crash-harris

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I found a few of his threads, but the ones I've found are all unfinished/updated threads. Does he still make/sell them, and are they still an arm and a leg?
 

Waystro

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I found a few of his threads, but the ones I've found are all unfinished/updated threads. Does he still make/sell them, and are they still an arm and a leg?

He made some sets for other members but life gets in the way. Didn't he also get moved from where he worked at the machine shop?
 

riotwarrior

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He can and may make em...and yes was moved iirc.

Pm him

Maybe he can just machine the hex brass internally....then folks could drill fit tubing and solder to cut down on machining
 

crash-harris

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He can and may make em...and yes was moved iirc.

Pm him

Maybe he can just machine the hex brass internally....then folks could drill fit tubing and solder to cut down on machining


Hmm, now we're spreading this discussion across 2 threads. In addition to my post in your thread riot, maybe we can get someone to do machined caps that are drilled, then the buyer could buy their own tubing and choose between pressing/soldering in nipple tubes on either side, or go with the solid rail idea. Like a common rail, but for the return side.

I like the idea of threading the holes in the caps and making 2 solid rails (solid tubing matching return cap material instead of hose), one for each side of 4 cylinders, a tee fitting between cylinders 2 and 4 to connect to the filter head return, and a bar connecting all 4 caps on each side to reduce strain on the tubes when installing/removing. Elaborate I know...
 

dunk

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Well this really took off. Got some vaseline and lubed, inspected, reinstalled passenger side bank of caps that was easy access. Also checked return olive off the pump as I did move that a little while setting timing, but it appeared bone dry and sealing well. Wiped it with a bit of vaseline figured can't hurt, pushed to front of line and tightened. Caps went on a bit easier with everythign slathered in vaseline. Let it run a few minutes, shut off, walked away for 15-20 mins and tried to start. Took maybe 20+ seconds cranking to fire. If starting a few seconds after shutdown it fires second revolution every time, by my ear anyhow. May remove, vaseline and reinstall drivers side bank tomorrow if I'm feeling ambitious. I ordered 100 viton and 100 buna-n o-rings tonight. McMaster has the olives (vibra-lok sleeves). $33 for a 10 pack and I need two sizes. I'll hold off on those as I don't think they're leaking and $66 is a little steep IMO for what they are. At that point if I think they're the problem I'll probably get some fittings and make up some line
 

MTKirk

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Well this really took off. Got some vaseline and lubed, inspected, reinstalled passenger side bank of caps that was easy access. Also checked return olive off the pump as I did move that a little while setting timing, but it appeared bone dry and sealing well. Wiped it with a bit of vaseline figured can't hurt, pushed to front of line and tightened. Caps went on a bit easier with everythign slathered in vaseline. Let it run a few minutes, shut off, walked away for 15-20 mins and tried to start. Took maybe 20+ seconds cranking to fire. If starting a few seconds after shutdown it fires second revolution every time, by my ear anyhow. May remove, vaseline and reinstall drivers side bank tomorrow if I'm feeling ambitious. I ordered 100 viton and 100 buna-n o-rings tonight. McMaster has the olives (vibra-lok sleeves). $33 for a 10 pack and I need two sizes. I'll hold off on those as I don't think they're leaking and $66 is a little steep IMO for what they are. At that point if I think they're the problem I'll probably get some fittings and make up some line

Lots of good ideas here, but I don't know if anyone has mentioned isolating the return system to make sure that's where your intrusion is coming from. To isolate just locate the small line coming off the fuel filter; now do whatever it takes to plug this line before it gets to any part of your return system. (golf tee in a short length of return hose will work, as will a big nail) do the same thing for the line going to the return cap so it won't spew diesel.

You now have separated your supply & return systems; start it up, run for a bit, shut it off, let it sit for a while, then try to restart. If it is still hard to start you have supply problems (you could have return problems as well, but fix the supply issues first). If it starts fine after this procedure then you know you still have a return issue (but at least you don't have supply problems).
 

typ4

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I do have feed line kits made up, good push on hose, coast guard rated, and I haven't done a stainless braid kit because everyone wants a different route and exact length to crimp would be tough to figure out.
 

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