tbrumm
Full Access Member
If you're doing a torque converter only swap, then it's pretty much simple, pull off the old, install the new. Stop me if you're already aware, but make sure the cutouts on the snout of the converter engage the ears inside the pump. I'd be trying to save some of that fresh fluid though, there should be a drain plug on the convertor itself.
What did you use for a test gauge? I'm looking at a cheap eBay oil pressure test gauge, 0 to 100psi, around $16.
Thanks, Mccall52 - I know the TC has to seat down on the pump all the way and figured I had to carefully spin it as it slides down. If the TC is seated all the way, there should be a gap between the front of the TC and a straightedge held across the front of the case. I bought a cheaper mechanical oil pressure gauge at O'Reilly's and tee'd that into the cooler line, so it sounds like the ebay gauge you are looking at should work fine. I bought one with a 270° sweep, figuring with more movement of the needle would make the "flick or dip" mentioned by TRANSGO easier to see while driving. Even with a 180° sweep gauge though, you will be able to see the needle move when the computer signals lockup because (at least on mine) there was a 10 psi dip. I wish I had done this test long ago, but I am still wonderring if the diagnosis can really be this simple. TRANSGO goes on to say "If the cooler line gauge does not flick or dip with the LED, then either the solenoid is bad, the lockup valve is stuck or it has the wrong spring in it." So apparently the flick/dip in the gauge is showing that the solenoid and lockup valve are working and sending the required hydraulic pressure to the TC to lock the clutch, but (in my case) the TC clutch is simply not able to lock for whatever reason. There is no noise, no shudder or chatter, just no lock.