Engine temps

[needlenose]

Is this normal? The speedo is about 3mph slow. I'm pulling about 6K lbs in 70 degree weather. If I slow down, the temp will slowly drop to about the 'N' or 'O'. In the pic it's running right on top of the 'L'.

One thing I noticed is that the fan will spin for about 8-10 seconds after killing the engine. I'm hoping that the fan clutch is just shot.

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[SLC97SR5]

Can you hear the fan roaring when it is locked up?

If you don't get the "roar" I would suspect the clutch is bad.

Have you inspected the clutch spring to make sure it is not packed up with crap?

 

[needlenose]

Can you hear the fan roaring when it is locked up?

If you don't get the "roar" I would suspect the clutch is bad.

Have you inspected the clutch spring to make sure it is not packed up with crap?

Didn't know there was a spring to check. I thought it was some little expanding something-or-other that was sealed up inside. I will have to go out and inspect it.

When it got over the 'L', I pulled over, popped the hood, and reved the engine. No roar and the fan didn't really seem to change speeds. My 1st gen Dodge sounds like it's about to take flight when the fan is locked up. The Ford, not so much. I just wanted to make sure before I dropped $150 on a new clutch.

 

[icanfixall]

Usually we don't give much credence to the normal letters on the temp gauge because we have no idea what the R means or any other letter compared to a real degrees of temp. As for your fan spinning for as long as you posted. I'd say its shot. DO NOT BUY A HAYDEN FAN CLUTCH. They just are a low quality clutch. The Ford factory clutch is so much better. What you can do to cause the fan to kick in and lock up earlier than the stock setting is remove the thermactor spring. Take the bend out of the end that sticks into the rtv and make it shorter. In other words move the bend towards the end of the spring. Replace it and rtv the end in the fixture. When you remove your clutch look at the spring. See if its covered in dirt and oil from the clutch. That right there tells you its leaking and is shot. Some have drilled a hole and filled them with oil and repaired them. We had a writeup on this a few years back. My feelings are once the seal leaks whats the sense in refilling the oil. Its going to leak out. Check ebay for fan clutches. Usually they are plenty and u haul has them offered all the time too.

 

[needlenose]

When you remove your clutch look at the spring. See if its covered in dirt and oil from the clutch. That right there tells you its leaking and is shot.

You mean like this?

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[icanfixall]

Yes.. Thats a shot to hell fan clutch. Great pic too. It shows what a bad seal looks like and.. It shows that thermactor spring you need to modify. Just do not let the valve shaft turn any amount like 180 degrees from where it is now. What that slotted shaft does is it opens and closes a valve to all the viscous fan fluid to pass. When its closed the fan is locked up. OEM fan clutches can lock up as high as 230 degrees. Modify yours and it will lock up around 210 degrees. Thats a much safer temp.

 

[chris142]

it does sound like your clutch is shot. but remember that you need hot water/coolant to make the air hot that turns the spring.a lazy stat or partially plugged radiator wont let the spring get hot. basically the radiator must be radiating heat for the clutch to work

 

[icanfixall]

I agree with a thermostat needing to operate correctly and heat must be generated off the radiator for the clutch to work. But this pictured clutch is not gonna work no matter what heat it sees. The shaft seal is shot and its lost way too much viscous fluid. Shes done and done well beyond repairs. When its wore out.. Its wore out...