Clutch problem

[S-west]

I already have a new master cylinder that I was trying to put in when I saw that the pin was worn. The old one was plastic and I've been looking for an excuse to take it out and put a metal one in. Do I have to pull the dash or steering column to pull the pedal assembly? Because it sure looks like it

 

[riotwarrior]

I already have a new master cylinder that I was trying to put in when I saw that the pin was worn. The old one was plastic and I've been looking for an excuse to take it out and put a metal one in. Do I have to pull the dash or steering column to pull the pedal assembly? Because it sure looks like it

Not 100% on your years method, however if you read my tech article about cracked firewall and what to do in the tech section its there..

But for 87-91

Remove dash bezel plastic,

Remove instrument cluster

Remove steering column

Remove pedal assembly and repair

replace items in reverse order.

Hope that helps.

Al

 

[racin460]

I had the same problem in my 90 bad bushings in peddle for a bit put new ones in. Good for a bit and then had exactly the same thing you are saying the peddle would stay down about a inch from fully out position, and every now and then the peddle wold stay to the floor. (My finds were) the rubber boot in the master cylinder leaked fluid to the wrong side causing a vacuum when you release the clutch. Put a new one in the old master cylinder with the fluid not completely full and is sucked the rubber in. (The fix) make sure the boot has no holes in it and the cap bleed hole is not clogged with dirt. IMHO the bad bushings won't make the peddle stay at the floor only just a sloppy peddle and the big springs under the dash on the peddle will bring the sloop out in the up position.

 

[G. Mann]

Having just done one, I can tell you removal is a first class *****. Lack of room is the worst of it.
Try this:
1.Remove seats to give yourself working room. How you lay to reach up to the space makes a big difference in how much leverage you get.

2. Move the wiring as much out of your way as possible so you don't hit it with the hammer.

3. Smack the lower end of the lever [after you take the upper nut off of course] to try to get "some movement" a little is OK at this point. Try to drive it toward the drivers side. [you really can't hit it any other direction with the space you have] I use a 1lb. sledge. Not much swing so use what force you can get.

4. Take a 3/4 combination wrench [open end / box end] and slip it flat ways between the lever and the steering column mount bracket and pry the lower end of the lever toward the passenger side.

5. Smack it back with the hammer.

6. Repeat this back and forth until you get progressively more movement. When you move the bottom of the lever enough, you will be able to turn the open end of the wrench so one of the ears slips under the lever near the upper splines and the wrench shape will let you pry right at the attach bolt from the back side. Again.. move a little one way... smack it back with the hammer... move it some more...

7. Take a break.. do it some more.. after a while it will disengage the splines and come off. Take another break.. [trust me on this, you will be glad you did. .. ha]

At this point, you have better access to replace the clutch master than you will ever have.. if you need to do that, replace it now.

If not, install the banjo to the master [if it is the thread on kind, thread it full on, then back off 2 turns. Helps if you lube the threads at this time], trial fit the new lever/pin and select the best position for most clutch peddle travel so you pump fluid [you will see how it lines up when it's just right. Start the nut that holds the lever on and cuts new splines [yep, the new piece from Ford has no splines.. It cuts new ones when you install it].

Before you tighten down the nut to cut splines... work the clutch lightly by hand to verify your clock position of the lever is just right.
Tighten the nut fully. [not a lot of room here.. it goes slow.. one or two flats each pull.

8. LUBE THE HELL OUT OF THE PIN / bushing/ banjo. Screw the banjo back on, put the bushing in place, install the clip pin if you have one of the older styles. If you have the "new and improved" POS that Ford made for the "replacement" that does NOT have the clip pin.... well.. good luck. I've found the puny nylon bushings fail soon and the banjo walks to the end of the pin where it wears like a dirty diaper.

You might note from my earlier post with pictures I made a bronze bushing with a thrust washer and a clip pin to eliminate just that problem.

Hope this helps.