So my clutch pedal has always stayed about an inch down from being all the way up. But this morning I started my truck and the pedal stayed to the floor. I instantly checked the fluid in the master and I was full. I then got back in to my truck and pushed the clutch down again to see if it would go in gear. It wouldn't. So now I can't drive my truck and I don't know what the problem is. The master, line, and slave cylinder are all relatively new. And the clutch itself always worked fine.
Clutch problem
- Thread starter S-west
- Start date
pwjackson
Full Access Member
Those are the same symptoms I had when my slave cylinder went out.
stumiister
Diesel Truck Tech
I want to say either you have air in the clutch system or the slave cylinder is bad, I would try to bleed the air first.
hesutton
The Anti-Anderson
Something is broken, either the pin on the pedal assembly, the push rod, the master, the line, the slave, or the TOB fork. Most commonly it's the slave.
That sucks man, it really does. Just be glad it happened at home and not in the middle of traffic somewhere.
Heath
That sucks man, it really does. Just be glad it happened at home and not in the middle of traffic somewhere.
Heath
pwjackson
Full Access Member
Yes, my slave went out at a busy 4-way intersection. Luck had it that a friend answered his phone and said he had the same problem once and gave me some instruction. Truck was already in first gear so since the clutch was already to the floor it allowed the engine to start in gear and I went on my way and limped it home without a clutch. I wouldn't recommend doing that no more than necessary because it can't be good on the starter but it got me home.
hesutton
The Anti-Anderson
Too many dang stop lights and stop signs to try that here.
Heath
Heath
pwjackson
Full Access Member
Yeah I only had 1 stop light and I just rolled the stops signs that I had........
Well I took a look at it and my clutch slave was upside down so I turned it back into the slot where it's facing up. But it is really loose so that I can turn it by hand. And it will just rattle back down. Still think its bad or maybe I just have to bleed it? Btw with the slave where it's suposed to be there is even more play in the pedal because its recessed back into that groove.
hesutton
The Anti-Anderson
If the pedal is on the floor, it is most likely in the hydraulics somewhere. Even with a bad clutch, the pedal should return if the hydraulics are working as they should. Fluid in the master? How's the line? It travel near the drivers exhaust manifold and other hazards. Have a good look at it and make sure there are no holes/cracks. Do you see any fluid leaks anywhere on the clutch hydraulics?
Heath
Heath
G. Mann
Full Access Member
I'll take bets your problem is the clutch lever, under the dash, above the steering column, right side. It has a pin that pushes the rod that drives the fluid from the Clutch Master to the Clutch Slave. As the pin wears [from never being lubed, after the **** bushing Ford makes fails] you clutch release point gets farther and farther to the floor until it stops pumping enough fluid because the travel is to short to make the slave open the clutch.
Been there a bunch. Bought a bunch of trucks with that problem after the owners spent $$$$$$ putting in new clutches and masters and slaves.. and still couldn't make a clutch work.
The part you need is PN: E 4 T Z- 7A554-A if you can find one... Ford no longer makes them, and many dealers no longer have them in stock. The same part fits from 1980 to 1994 I believe... but Powers That Be at Ford don't believe the millions of Fords still on the road are worth supporting, I suppose.
I just did one last week.. same problem. I found a new part in Another State, bought it immediately. While I waited to get the part I built a new pin. it works better than new because it has a proper bronze bearing.
I'll try to attach pictures to this post.. never done that before so cut me slack .. ok.
The last pic shows the old pin laying beside the new assembly for contrast.
The worn pin is spot welded.. or rivited.. depending on which sub-contractor made it for Ford. You have to grind the weld or rivet flush on the back side, then use a flat face punch and drive the old pin out. I chose to braze the new one in so I could float weld material into and around the new pin which was not serrated like the original.
Apology for the pic quality... only a camera phone to works with.
Ohh.. total cost for the repair parts from my local ACE hardware, $14.67 . Labor took about 6 hrs total because the lever under the dash fought like hell, having NEVER been taken off before.
REMOVE THE SEAT... you can't get there with it in, unless you are a fricking midget.
Been there a bunch. Bought a bunch of trucks with that problem after the owners spent $$$$$$ putting in new clutches and masters and slaves.. and still couldn't make a clutch work.
The part you need is PN: E 4 T Z- 7A554-A if you can find one... Ford no longer makes them, and many dealers no longer have them in stock. The same part fits from 1980 to 1994 I believe... but Powers That Be at Ford don't believe the millions of Fords still on the road are worth supporting, I suppose.
I just did one last week.. same problem. I found a new part in Another State, bought it immediately. While I waited to get the part I built a new pin. it works better than new because it has a proper bronze bearing.
I'll try to attach pictures to this post.. never done that before so cut me slack .. ok.
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The last pic shows the old pin laying beside the new assembly for contrast.
The worn pin is spot welded.. or rivited.. depending on which sub-contractor made it for Ford. You have to grind the weld or rivet flush on the back side, then use a flat face punch and drive the old pin out. I chose to braze the new one in so I could float weld material into and around the new pin which was not serrated like the original.
Apology for the pic quality... only a camera phone to works with.
Ohh.. total cost for the repair parts from my local ACE hardware, $14.67 . Labor took about 6 hrs total because the lever under the dash fought like hell, having NEVER been taken off before.
REMOVE THE SEAT... you can't get there with it in, unless you are a fricking midget.
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Gman is likely spot on there is info to be had, for one look in the tech section for firewall fix. In that article I show the worn PIN
I've done a TECH 101 on it here
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...101-Clutch-ARM-replacement&highlight=TECH+101
Hope this helps, There ARE differences between the years btw in the small arms. I have pre 87 pedal setup here and an 97-91 and a 92 up and I can photo all if needed.
JM2CW
Al
I've done a TECH 101 on it here
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...101-Clutch-ARM-replacement&highlight=TECH+101
Hope this helps, There ARE differences between the years btw in the small arms. I have pre 87 pedal setup here and an 97-91 and a 92 up and I can photo all if needed.
JM2CW
Al
My pin is warn. And I have been fighting with it to get it off. I tried prying it and hitting it but it won't budge. I don't have a small gear puller and don't even know how I would fit it in if I did. Guess ill have to pick one up and try it out
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
If worse comes to worse, you can remove the entire pedal assembly and remove the pin arm then
Is your master cyl EYE worn too? If the pin is the eye is likely shot too. This compounds the problem as replacing the pin is half the problem solved.
Then it's either replace the rod with a new one or a whole new MC the NEW MC is my thoughts, replacing rod is well, difficult though not impossible.
In all honesty I'd suggest pulling your pedal assembly to remove the arm.
JM2CW
Al
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