Wouldn't Die

[Ole BlackBetty]

also when I got home this evening, it would not turn off, I just raised the hood and clamped shut the return line again, and it died instantly. Truck runs fine idling and going down the highway, just will not shut off.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Lot's of questions.
How long have you owned the truck?

Did the problem just happen?

Have you ever had the solenoid cover off the IP?

Was the IP ever changed to your Knowledge?

Does the fuel filter have a filter element in it?

Do you have an electric lift pump?

Since you said you disconnected the wire to the solenoid and it didn't shut down, you do not have an electrical problem.

If none of the above, pull the IP solenoid cover off, then with the key on, remove the wire to the shut off solenoid, put it on and off, watch for the solenoid plunger for movement, it might be sticky. Operate the fuel shut off slide at the top of pic #2, make sure it slides easy, slide to the right, then let the spring open it (slide to left). Don't force it, it should slide easily.

Put the cover back on, make sure the fuel control arm is placed like shown in the picture #2.
No need for any gasket, there is a rubber ring in the cover.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Just thought of something else.

Take the fuel return line off, unscrew the fitting and see if there is a check valve there. I do not have any pic's of that. Clamping that line off it may be possible for fuel to return to the IP. Never seen or heard of such a thing, but **** happens.
See post #9 for fitting on top of IP.

Edit: You could always remove the return line when it keeps running and see if you have back pressure in that fuel line. It is not actually a return line, it feeds fuel to all the injectors to charge them, not fire them, steel lines do that. Doing this the engine should stop.

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Lot's of questions.
How long have you owned the truck?
about 1 month
Did the problem just happen?
this is the second time, I posted a couple of weeks ago, the first time it happened.
Have you ever had the solenoid cover off the IP?
no, I have not. I read a post while searching for others with this problem, that if the arm is not reinstalled correctly, i may have a runaway condition. I dont want that.
Was the IP ever changed to your Knowledge?
Not that I am aware of, it looks just as worn as the rest of the motor.
Does the fuel filter have a filter element in it?
yes, I replaced it, shortly after I bought the truck.
Do you have an electric lift pump?
no, but I also put in a new lift pump, (airtech) after buying truck, because I thought it was leaking. turned out to be filter that was leaking.
Since you said you disconnected the wire to the solenoid and it didn't shut down, you do not have an electrical problem.

If none of the above, pull the IP solenoid cover off, then with the key on, remove the wire to the shut off solenoid, put it on and off, watch for the solenoid plunger for movement, it might be sticky. Operate the fuel shut off slide at the top of pic #2, make sure it slides easy, slide to the right, then let the spring open it (slide to left). Don't force it, it should slide easily.

Put the cover back on, make sure the fuel control arm is placed like shown in the picture #2.
No need for any gasket, there is a rubber ring in the cover.

thank you so much for your help, OldBull8, it seems I just keep finding new problems, when i fix 1 thing, 2 others pop up, lol.
I will take off top of pump in the morning, is there anything I need to watch out for? and what about this runaway condition, i read about?[/I]

 

[OLDBULL8]

The runaway condition will exist if the fuel shut off arm is not installed as I said and show. You can take a light string or heavy thread in a U shape, pull the shut off slide to the right (shut off position) replace the cover, remove string before tightening cover down. Just don't break the string pulling it out. Either that way or you can energize the solenoid coil while putting it back on, that moves the arm to the opening position.

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

The runaway condition will exist if the fuel shut off arm is not installed as I said and show. You can take a light string or heavy thread in a U shape, pull the shut off slide to the right (shut off position) replace the cover, remove string before tightening cover down. Just don't break the string pulling it out. Either that way or you can energize the solenoid coil while putting it back on, that moves the arm to the opening position.

By energizing coil, do you mean FSS plugged in and key on or, plugged in and key off?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Energizing is when you apply voltage to whatever. Yes put the wire back on the solenoid connection and turn the key on, or make a temp jumper from the battery to it.

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Just making sure we were on the same page, thanks

Energizing is when you apply voltage to whatever. Yes put the wire back on the solenoid connection and turn the key on, or make a temp jumper from the battery to it.

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Ok oldbull, I removed fss from top of ip, grounded it to battery and jumped a wire to post. Nothing happened, my test light comes on but plunger in fss does not move . It stays out in extended position. It pushes in freely, with just spring tension pushing it back out . Solenoid control arm moves freely. I am assuming the electro magnet in fss is shot.

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Well now I am really confused. I went ahead and put it back on, turned on key then touched plug to fss and I can hear it clicking loudly like it is making good contact, time and time again. But when I had it off the fss would barely move the plunger when activated?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Useing a test light as a jumper wire don't work, not enough current can pass thru a light bulb. Since the FSS solenoid clicks like that it's good. Next step is to take the fitting off the top and see if there is a check valve there.
This is the last suggestion I have. Anybody else have a suggestion?

 

[bigoilburner20]

wow great info here

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Oldbull, you have helped me more than I can thank you for. I put it all back together and is working like it should. The fss must have been partly stuck open, until I removed it, I worked it back and forth several times before I tried to give her a start, now it is working.
As for the check valve , I removed connection and held it up to the light, I can see light through it, but can't blow through it, without popping a jaw! Must be a glass or clear plastic check ball, is all I can say, lol. Thank you very much for all your help, I'll either be a diesel mechanic or commit suicide by the time I am done with this truck!

 

[OLDBULL8]

Hey , No problem. Went and took some pics. Here is what I was talking about. You cannot blow thru the check valve, there is a little ball that is spring loaded closed, when you look in the IP fitting hole, there is a small "shaft" in there that opens the ball check to let fluid flow. Pic's are almost self explanatory. Glad you got it fixed, if not now you know how. One little speck of dirt can hold that check ball open.

For anyone else reading this, it's the fuel hose connection on top of the IP.