The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Your theory about the OEM return setup is correct. There is a very good reason they all came this way, purging air is a priority. And if you ever fail to switch tanks fast enough the way your setup is now, every ounce of air goes through the IP instead of some percentage being purged. I've done it both ways and it's a LOT faster to recover with the OE setup.Here is a diagram I drew of the stock return line setup. Without the soft line between the injector cap and the filter housing, air in the (orange) hard line has no where to go hardly except into the IP and to the injectors. Maybe that'll solve the problem right there. The olives on that hard line might be weepy from leaking, so I'll keep an eye on that.
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And since you have your E-pump, you now have no excuse (edit: NOT) to go back to the OE style return! Free air purging! Another cool deal is that a LOT more air can go through that tiny orifice than can diesel, which took me a long time to realize. So a tiny stream of diesel goes through that but a boat load of air can run through the same passage. Pretty good setup really.
Without having memorized your fuel setup, you'll just need one check valve somewhere between your fuel tank and your fuel filter to prevent drain back. Unless the Holley or regulator already has one built in, then you won't need an extra.
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