3g alternator part #'s for v-belt idi's

[frankenwrench]

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I just read this thread before headed to the junkyard for another alt myself and decided on the fly that this is the direction I wanted to go, being this is my 9th alternator and regulator in 4 years. I found what I believe to be what I need. 8 inches center to center on the two holes. Pulled him off of a 95 windstar. Hope this is correct?

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[stick_witch]

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I just read this thread before headed to the junkyard for another alt myself and decided on the fly that this is the direction I wanted to go, being this is my 9th alternator and regulator in 4 years. I found what I believe to be what I need. 8 inches center to center on the two holes. Pulled him off of a 95 windstar. Hope this is correct?

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Yup, that should do the trick. Did you snag the wiring harness as well? You’ll need the 3 pin pigtail and the stator plug, then you’ll need to go get 4 gauge wire (20-30in, need 4 connection ends so buy 2 separate 10-15in wires) and then a 175amp megafuse and block. For that alt you’ll need a different bolt for the top ear, stock one won’t work, i think its 8mm but not 100% sure. Or you could drill and tap. Depending on what belts you’re running you may need to swap the pulley as well.

Yeah 3g swap is the way to go, it will serve you well!


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[frankenwrench]

Thanks boss! Yes I got 10 ft of 4 gage wire(other stuff needs done as well) and I snagged the 3 pin plug and stator wire. Came back about a foot and some change and snipped it there. But I did forget to pick up the 2 copper lugs for the ends of the 4 gage.. And of course I'm ready to stab as we speak and the car left I was using... damn little sisters running off with my other truck all the time and the wife is gone. So here I waitby the way, I am no Sparky of any sort, do the numbers look ok on the test paper I posted earlier?

 

[stick_witch]

Thanks boss! Yes I got 10 ft of 4 gage wire(other stuff needs done as well) and I snagged the 3 pin plug and stator wire. Came back about a foot and some change and snipped it there. But I did forget to pick up the 2 copper lugs for the ends of the 4 gage.. And of course I'm ready to stab as we speak and the car left I was using... damn little sisters running off with my other truck all the time and the wife is gone. So here I waitby the way, I am no Sparky of any sort, do the numbers look ok on the test paper I posted earlier?

Oh noooo thats the worst![emoji23] When you do go, get 4 copper lugs and a 175amp megafuse and block as well. Its smart to have a fusible link. Don’t wanna fry your wiring/solenoid/batteries if the regulator on that 3g goes out. The 3g along with the added freedom of 4 gauge can pump out some serious amperage if not regulated.

As far as the test, numbers look fine to me, but not very comprehensive. But it says the regulator is good and it seems to be in the ball park as far as voltage so it’s probably fine.
As long as it produces more than 13.5v in the truck with no accessories than you’re golden. 13.8-14.2 is excellent and ideal. With all accessories on you wanna be above 13v. If its putting out volts in excess of 14.6-15ish than your regulator is most likely shot. Test doesn’t say what the regulator is set at, but its usually 14.5v. Also, make sure your batteries are good.


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[stick_witch]

being this is my 9th alternator and regulator in 4 years.

Yeeesh, 9 alternators.... about darn time! Lol[emoji23]


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[frankenwrench]

Yeeesh, 9 alternators.... about darn time! Lol[emoji23]


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Yes it is! And I didn't get the mega fuse, gonna have to wait till later today for it to come in. Batteries are fairly new motorcraft pair. Got them fresh about 8 months ago. I did cheat like no one's business and hooked everything up without the fuse just to fire it up and the old spark tester read 14v flat once I gave it about 5 minutes to help out the near dead batteries. That's with the heater and all accessories on. Once the big fuse is on, I don't expect perfection from my junkyard find. I'm just happy with everything on I'm seeing my dummy guage on the dash read between the o and r in "normal" and the volt meter reads 13.7 at idle with nothing on but the engine. Awesome thread man! Helped me out on the fly and got Big Ugs charging right! And my fan is actually blowing hard enough to notice for once! Usually have to be moving about 40 mph or so to feel any effect of having the heater on. Still a weak blow I think, but it's also never been changed and neither has the resister. Overall badass help as usual on this forum. Thank you for all the help!

 

[franklin2]

So your new alternator came with the v-belt pulley? It looks different than the picture of your old alternator laying there and the old one still has the pulley on it?

If you are using a different pulley, is it the same diameter as the old pulley on the 1G?

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[stick_witch]

So your new alternator came with the v-belt pulley? It looks different than the picture of your old alternator laying there and the old one still has the pulley on it?

If you are using a different pulley, is it the same diameter as the old pulley on the 1G?

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No it did not come with that pulley, it came with a serpentine pulley that i promptly took off.

When I went and got my batteries the guy threw in that nice, shiny v belt pulley. It’s the same pulley in terms or dimensions and fitment, just newer and manufactured differently. It looks like machined steel, maybe stainless. Whereas the stock pulley is like that rough cut, coppery alloy.


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[nelstomlinson]

I just put a new alternator in my '91. It's NAPA 213-3052a, from memory. It uses the old external voltage regulator, and puts out 70A at 2000RPM to 100+A at 6000RPM. I'm guessing that engine idle gets it close to 2000RPM at the alternator.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I just put a new alternator in my '91. It's NAPA 213-3052a, from memory. It uses the old external voltage regulator, and puts out 70A at 2000RPM to 100+A at 6000RPM. I'm guessing that engine idle gets it close to 2000RPM at the alternator.

Was that engine RPM or alternator RPM? I may be wrong, but I read it as engine RPM.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I got those numbers from the test results packed with the rebuilt alternator, so they were probably alternator RPM.

 

[stick_witch]

Was that engine RPM or alternator RPM? I may be wrong, but I read it as engine RPM.

I usually say it as engine rpm, but not sure if thats right or wrong. But I’m fairly certain that the rating on alternators are usually the number of amps produced at 2000 engine rpms.

And if your pulley reduction ratio between the crank and alternator is 1:2.7, you would have an alternator rpm of around 5400 rpms at 2000 crank rpms, which is significantly different. When you put that number into alt output test graph you get a completely different output...
Does anyone know which is the industry standard? Are they tested at alternator rpm, or engine rpm?





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[nelstomlinson]

I agree that engine versus alternator RPM matters. Unless there is a single application with a single pulley ratio, the rebuilding shop isn't going to know the pulley ratio, so I expect that the rebuilders report performance in terms of alternator RPM, which they do know. That's all guesswork of course: I know nothing about that industry.

 

[franklin2]

I would say it's alternator rpm, since if they are testing it up to 6000 rpm, a idi diesel is never going to rev that high. Aren't they governed to 3300 rpm?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes but I'm pretty sure that it's for the alternator that cam off of a 95 Windstar so the engine could go that fast.