Power Windows

[gandalf]

The driver's side power window on my truck has gotten lazy. The truck is my '92 CCLBD. I can hear the window motor running. It sounds okay, but the window itself is very sluggish. Sometimes, often, it stops completely, though the motor is still running. I usually have to push just a bit to get the window down, and lift , more, to get the window up, all while the electric motor is running.

Add this to the fact that the door opener, same door, no longer works. I cannot open that door from the inside. I must open the window, reach through, and open the door from the outside. This is increasingly difficult with the window no working properly.

Therefore, I need to do two things: 1) fix the window so it opens properly, and 2) fix the door opener so I don't have to rely on the window. I'll happily accept instructions on both projects.

Just remembered another problem, same door. The central locking system does not work from that door. It works well from the passenger door, locking the driver's door and all others.

 

[rewbrooks50]

Your window motor gear or regulator gears are most likely stripped. This condition may have disconnected the interior door handle rod. Pull the door panel to inspect.

 

[Selahdoor]

First thing I would do, well... Is exactly what I DID do.

Spray silicone lube in the window tracks. Down both sides. Get all the way to the top of the tracks. Just flood those tracks so it flows down past the window.

Then run the window up and down a few dozen times.

My driver's window was doing that. (Minus the door opener problem.) Passenger window worked much better.

Did the above to just the driver's window. It was better already, before I stopped running it up and down. Got better as time went on.

Now it runs up and down like a new window, and the passenger window, being the same as it was before, seems sluggish. Got to do that one the next time I have a chance.

 

[Jake60]

I had that problem. Lubing it like Selahdoor said helped some but I ended up replacing the regulator. It was like $30 or something of ebay. Had to remove the wing window to get the window out, then grind off the 4 rivets that hold the regulator on. It was easy after that getting it back together. I also had a problem with the drivers power lock not actuating from the driver side, found a broken wire lug on the bottom side of the switch.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...-your-truck-today.60076/page-290#post-1041571

 

[chillman88]

I had that problem. Lubing it like Selahdoor said helped some but I ended up replacing the regulator. It was like $30 or something of ebay. Had to remove the wing window to get the window out, then grind off the 4 rivets that hold the regulator on. It was easy after that getting it back together. I also had a problem with the drivers power lock not actuating from the driver side, found a broken wire lug on the bottom side of the switch.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/...-your-truck-today.60076/page-290#post-1041571

So did you keep your motors and just replace the regulator? I've been putting this off for a while myself.

 

[Jake60]

So did you keep your motors and just replace the regulator? I've been putting this off for a while myself.

The new regulator came with new motor so I just replaced it as a unit. This is the one I got.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Left...or-Ford-F150-F250-F350-1980-1996/263104566251

 

[chillman88]

The new regulator came with new motor so I just replaced it as a unit. This is the one I got.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Left...or-Ford-F150-F250-F350-1980-1996/263104566251

Thanks! The ones I was looking at were like twice that price.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Inside the regulator there are (or were in your case) three poly pucks. They connect the motor to the drive gear and act as a shear point in case a kid gets an arm or finger stuck in the window. They break down over time. Once they fall apart the window no longer goes up or down.
You can replace them with 3/8 nuts or buy replacements. Dorman sells regulator repair kits for these trucks for less than 10 bucks. The repair kit has new nylon gear and the nylon pucks. I have never had they nylon gear go bad, but I have bought several kits for different trucks over the years just for the poly pucks. 3/8 nuts will make your window work perfectly, but then it can also function as guillotine and I have three kids who like to play with windows.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Here are the pucks without the gear for even less.
https://www.ebay.com/i/302064703792...MImP_svZub5wIV0RZ9Ch1lJQwwEAQYBCABEgLvu_D_BwE

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

As for the door latch, It wears at the pivot point of the inside latch and the cable that connects to the latch stretches. I have replaced both the cables and latches at different times, and that works for a while, but for permanent fix, just buy the whole mechanism and be prepared for it to all work like new.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Door-L...hash=item1e890b6c34:m:m8mzBRyuxcahCE0JrZJqn9g

 

[Selahdoor]

For the door handle: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/mods-obs-door-handle-gusset-check-it.85861/

 

[quickster]

I replaced the 3 nylon pucks in my door also. Easy, but takes time. get 3 extra cause you'll probably need to do the other side eventually. I've heard of using the nuts too, but I wouldn't

 

[Thewespaul]

The regulator gears are plastic and are meant to strip to limit torque and not chop fingers off, if the motor itself is still good, you can lock the regulator gears together by using some ball bearings in between the teeth to prevent any slippage, and save some money on a new reg.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

At one time I had a fleet of 86-94 FSeries. All IDI’s.Some of them such as the landfill crew truck and the shop pickup plus one 94 FSD toilet truck were still in use in 2014. Over the years most of the problems with hard to open, cracked doors, broken inner handles, sluggish windows and stripped gears came down to lack of lubrication and old dried up white grease.
The process to clean and lube it all up and have like new door and window operation is a little tedious and takes a little while but is well worth it.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

My first comment on this process is that white lithium grease, the old standby, was banned from my shops in both spray penatrating and grease forms. It always dries up turns to gum, then later to white chalk (the clay used as a binder). Nearly impossible to get off without scraping and wire brushing.

Two lube products are needed.... Teflon Super Lube clear silicone grease with powdered Teflon and clear penatrating grease or....nearly as good..... a top quality motorcycle chain lube that comes out as a penatrating oil and dries into light grease.