Why 65psi max for dually rims?

[Tumbleweed210]

One other thing you might consider instead of the TPMS...is Equalizers for your duals. They do help with tread wear and the analog units are durable, as well as putting a single valve stem at the outer wheel to fill. Most also have a low pressure cut-off so in case of a leak both don't go flat. And yes they're available for a 65psi set-up.

 

[Cubey]

One other thing you might consider instead of the TPMS...is Equalizers for your duals. They do help with tread wear and the analog units are durable, as well as putting a single valve stem at the outer wheel to fill. Most also have a low pressure cut-off so in case of a leak both don't go flat. And yes they're available for a 65psi set-up.

Oh! I like that idea, checking both tires at once and filling both at once. It looks to be about $120 for both sides in Crossfire ones. I could still put TPMS, but then I would only need 4 sensors. I'd still need the hose holders to hep prevent them from rubbing on the rim cover though. Might be a little too rich for my blood, but we will see.

 

[79jasper]

Calvin used to post about the ones he used. I'll see if I can find them. They mounted through a axle shaft bolt.

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[Cubey]

Calvin used to post about the ones he used. I'll see if I can find them. They mounted through a axle shaft bolt.

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I would mount it with a lug nut as shown below, otherwise I'd have to leave off the decorative chrome center hub cap.

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[79jasper]

True, same principle. I didn't find the ones I was thinking of. Probably in a old thread somewhere about dually tires. Lol

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[chillman88]

Not a huge fan of the price but I really do like those crossfire equalizers. I may save up for a set myself because I know I don't keep up with checking them like I should.

 

[raydav]

I have a mix of early five hole and later eight hole wheels. And yes, the five hole say 65#. I do not see any structural difference. Nor can I determine a relationship between tire pressure and wheel failure. Very low pressure might cause an issue. But this wheel held up well.

My E350 van weighs 9K# and runs 215-85, and my E350 bus/RV is pushing 12K# and runs 235-85. I run all E rated, at 70# just to not push the tire limits. The van and bus do not overload the tires. If your tires look half flat at 70# you might consider a redesign of the suspension/tire system.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CkeKDDNLZSmG1PHH8

 

[Cubey]

I have a mix of early five hole and later eight hole wheels. And yes, the five hole say 65#. I do not see any structural difference. Nor can I determine a relationship between tire pressure and wheel failure. Very low pressure might cause an issue. But this wheel held up well.

My E350 van weighs 9K# and runs 215-85, and my E350 bus/RV is pushing 12K# and runs 235-85. I run all E rated, at 70# just to not push the tire limits. The van and bus do not overload the tires. If your tires look half flat at 70# you might consider a redesign of the suspension/tire system.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CkeKDDNLZSmG1PHH8

I thought about running 235/85R16 but I wasn't sure they'd fit the dually axle, as in the tires being too close to each other. Otherwise I could have swapped the 4 tires from my truck and bought 2 more new. The truck specs 235s on the Ford sticker, while the RV specs 215, so I stuck with the suggested size. Plus 215s should give slightly better MPG due to less rolling resistance. Plus the truck has A/T tires and it took a noticeable MPG hit vs the worn out (almost bald) A/S tires they replaced, so I wanted to get A/S tread on the RV to squeeze every fraction of an MPG out of it.

It has new rear shocks as of May (Monroe 555034 Gas-Magnum RV) which noticeably improved rear end bouncing, due to the worn out, original 1985 shocks that would not extend back on their own at ALL. I still need to do the front shocks, which will probably have to wait until February.

I will probably go with the matching front ones, Monroe 555033. They are the only shocks that outright say they are for RV/ambulance applications. When doing rear shock research, what I found is that the upper stems on the RV/ambulance shocks are slightly thicker than "standard" suspension shocks. Maybe shocks that say "Except Motorhome Chassis" would work, but... do I want to risk it? I have the extra heavy IDI (~100lbs heavier than the 460), the extra starting battery that an IDI requires, and the extra long cabover (even if it's fiberglass) so I want to buy the right shocks.

The "standard suspension" Bilsteins are the only ones I'd probably trust, but they are $100 each, vs about $50/each for the Monroes that say they are for RV use.

 

[Tumbleweed210]

Oh! I like that idea, checking both tires at once and filling both at once. It looks to be about $120 for both sides in Crossfire ones. I could still put TPMS, but then I would only need 4 sensors. I'd still need the hose holders to hep prevent them from rubbing on the rim cover though. Might be a little too rich for my blood, but we will see.

Don't know that I'd want 6 tpms's Bing-bing-binging at me...all at once(think 20°F +/- temp change or altitude variance) either...much less

No hose holder with the equalizer set-up, the guage mounts either to your center hub, or on a stud under a lug nut. Properly mounted there's no rubbing. Both mounts came with the kids I've installed.
And Yes! Its an actual gauge...with numbers even. I can't tell ya how many company driver's I've said that to, and got the whole "What? Really?" Look...as I was patching a flat (or worse) in the bar-ditch.

Actually the Crossfire setup eliminates the need for TPMS...as long as you're doing a "walk around" pre-trip(highly recommended anyway ya go)...When I was doing fleet service for Sunoco, and a few others, I'd have me trusty Sharpie Pen(in yer favorite shade...mine's Orange) and just make a line at the preferred pressure...and during pre-trip it should be rather obvious where you're pressure is at. Most of the time, I would NOT have to even stoop, much less stop, unless the sight glass was pointed straight down.
There's also the Cat's Eye ones that show a color change when "out of pressure range"...

These Equalizers are "analog" versions of TPMS's with a bonus of tire longevity....I feel I need to reiterate: THESE STATEMENTS ARE NOT INTENDED TO SELL YA NOTHING...I GET NO COMISH KAPISCE?
Just stating the direct observations of a tire guy that used to run all kinds of tires all over West Texas...24/7...365.

MY $.02 IS DECIDE IF YOU LIKE DIGITAL, OR ANALOG...AND GO WITH ONE OR THE OTHER...BOTH SYSTEMS HAVE DIFFERING ADVANTAGES. AS OF YET I DONT KNOW OF ANY COMPANY THAT HAS THE COMBINED FEATURES OF BOTH SYSTEMS...'CEPT UNCLE SAM. and his stuff is cha-ching-$pecialized.

 

[Randy Bush]

I thought about running 235/85R16 but I wasn't sure they'd fit the dually axle, as in the tires being too close to each other. Otherwise I could have swapped the 4 tires from my truck and bought 2 more new. The truck specs 235s on the Ford sticker, while the RV specs 215, so I stuck with the suggested size. Plus 215s should give slightly better MPG due to less rolling resistance. Plus the truck has A/T tires and it took a noticeable MPG hit vs the worn out (almost bald) A/S tires they replaced, so I wanted to get A/S tread on the RV to squeeze every fraction of an MPG out of it.

It has new rear shocks as of May (Monroe 555034 Gas-Magnum RV) which noticeably improved rear end bouncing, due to the worn out, original 1985 shocks that would not extend back on their own at ALL. I still need to do the front shocks, which will probably have to wait until February.

I will probably go with the matching front ones, Monroe 555033. They are the only shocks that outright say they are for RV/ambulance applications. When doing rear shock research, what I found is that the upper stems on the RV/ambulance shocks are slightly thicker than "standard" suspension shocks. Maybe shocks that say "Except Motorhome Chassis" would work, but... do I want to risk it? I have the extra heavy IDI (~100lbs heavier than the 460), the extra starting battery that an IDI requires, and the extra long cabover (even if it's fiberglass) so I want to buy the right shocks.

The "standard suspension" Bilsteins are the only ones I'd probably trust, but they are $100 each, vs about $50/each for the Monroes that say they are for RV use.

 

[Randy Bush]

My 93 dually had 235 on it when first bought it. Rears would almost rub together when load heavy, and made things tight on the front too. Went back to 215 on it.

 

[chillman88]

AS OF YET I DONT KNOW OF ANY COMPANY THAT HAS THE COMBINED FEATURES OF BOTH SYSTEMS...'CEPT UNCLE SAM. and his stuff is cha-ching-$pecialized.

Uncle Sam has it made though. Central tire inflation with on the fly pressure changes controlled by pushbutton

 

[Tumbleweed210]

Oh...and any tire shop that wants your business, should be able to mount up a tire and check fit, if you changing sizes (going from say a 215 to a 225 or even to a 235) and they are unsure of possible rub.

Done it quite a few times on 4×4's and others...just be sure they check front steering lock-to-lock and rears (both on the ground)...and bouncy-bouncy! Should be pretty obvious if they'll work.

P.S. I like me Some MONroe's too...if'n I caint git KYB's....both are my kinda budget friendly.

 

[ttman4]

My '90 CC Dually came with 215's. Wore them out then went to 235's. And they did rub when loaded or if I had a low tire. Go down road & could hear a quiet "screeching" sound when/if they rubbed. Also could get a small rock wedged & stuck between tires & it take out the sidewall.

Thru the yrs I slowly found dually wheels that were 3/8"-1/2" deeper dish than original wheels & that's what I now run A-OK with my 235's. Keep a few extra of the deeper dish wheels around now.

 

[Cubey]

My '90 CC Dually came with 215's. Wore them out then went to 235's. And they did rub when loaded or if I had a low tire. Go down road & could hear a quiet "screeching" sound when/if they rubbed. Also could get a small rock wedged & stuck between tires & it take out the sidewall.

Thru the yrs I slowly found dually wheels that were 3/8"-1/2" deeper dish than original wheels & that's what I now run A-OK with my 235's. Keep a few extra of the deeper dish wheels around now.

Since it's an RV, it's loaded all the time basically. 215s are what I'll stick with. If these wear out fast, and they might being cheap off brand Chinese crap but it's what I could afford at the time, and they're still better than the rotten told tires it had, I might spring for Commercial T/As or something like that next time. Or maybe I'll just put another cheap set. If they last 2.5 years (minimum) per set then yeah, that's not bad for the price. It's more wasteful tire wise, but cost wise it'll be about the same.