new ip and injectors now wont start
- Thread starter ryder417
- Start date
If you replaced the injectors but not the pump, likely the pump is worn to the point where it could pop the worn out injectors, but not brand injectors that will have a much higher pop pressure than the old ones.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Can you get any smoke out the tailpipe? Keep cranking it a good 15 seconds and see if any is coming out while cranking.
No smoke, no fuel: could be a problem with the fuel shutoff solenoid (FSS), the electric wire that goes to the IP - try running a wire straight from 12V+ to the electric plug then try starting. The FSS should click when applying power, no clicky means its stuck shut meaning no fuel flow
Gray smoke: Glow plugs shot or not turning on. You can bypass the glow plug controller with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver between the BIG posts on the relay if you feel ballsy. Count to 7 Mississippi's (~7 seconds)
Blackish gray smoke: She's trying to fire, either you have too few cylidners hot (some bad plugs), a very clogged air filter, and/or not enough cranking RPMs and need to charge the batts up
No smoke, no fuel: could be a problem with the fuel shutoff solenoid (FSS), the electric wire that goes to the IP - try running a wire straight from 12V+ to the electric plug then try starting. The FSS should click when applying power, no clicky means its stuck shut meaning no fuel flow
Gray smoke: Glow plugs shot or not turning on. You can bypass the glow plug controller with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver between the BIG posts on the relay if you feel ballsy. Count to 7 Mississippi's (~7 seconds)
Blackish gray smoke: She's trying to fire, either you have too few cylidners hot (some bad plugs), a very clogged air filter, and/or not enough cranking RPMs and need to charge the batts up
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rhkcommander
Full Access Member
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
if you have white smoke it means you have fuel so the fss is fine.
It means you don't have glow plugs working to make the heat needed to start it up. If you have a block heater plug it in, better than nothing.
Ether and glowplugs dont mix, so put the ether away unless you unplug the glow plug controller or you might blow it up. you could pull a plug or two and make sure they work, tell us the brand of the glowplugs too. Some are known to be engine killers
It means you don't have glow plugs working to make the heat needed to start it up. If you have a block heater plug it in, better than nothing.
Ether and glowplugs dont mix, so put the ether away unless you unplug the glow plug controller or you might blow it up. you could pull a plug or two and make sure they work, tell us the brand of the glowplugs too. Some are known to be engine killers
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
voltage varies, but if you have a test light you can hook it onto battery positive, unplug each plug and poke the spot where the connector was, light on they should be OK
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
No need for a compression check if your truck was running prior to replacing the IP & injectors.
Unfortunately you bought these components from an injection shop that pumps out junk products. Your core parts are probably better than what you just bought.
Having said this, it sounds like you still have air in the system. Try bleeding the lines & try again.
And if you added ether with glowplugs lit, you can bet you’ll need to replace them as well.
Unfortunately you bought these components from an injection shop that pumps out junk products. Your core parts are probably better than what you just bought.
Having said this, it sounds like you still have air in the system. Try bleeding the lines & try again.
And if you added ether with glowplugs lit, you can bet you’ll need to replace them as well.
