Proper clutch diagnosis?

Shadetreemechanic

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The heim joint is a great mod, but if you get in a pinch and cant keep the pushrod on a small pair of needle nosed vice grips clipped onto the end of the pedal stub will hold everything in place and get you shifting again.
I have new bushings and vice grips on all three of my IDIs. One has had it now for 5 years. If the shaft is worn on the pedal so that it doesn't hold the factory bushing, the vice grip will fix that as well.
Ill do the heim joint mod eventually, if not sooner.
 

tjsea

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If your new master cyl is cocked off on an angle I'm willing to bet it's for the wrong year. The earlier master cylinders had the bolts straight up and down and the later ones were angled a little. Either way the masters still work fine. This also probably explains the difference in pushrod length.
 

79jasper

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If your new master cyl is cocked off on an angle I'm willing to bet it's for the wrong year. The earlier master cylinders had the bolts straight up and down and the later ones were angled a little. Either way the masters still work fine. This also probably explains the difference in pushrod length.
Yup. I had a brick master on my obs, sat exactly the same. Tilted towards the engine.
If tilted towards the brake master, it must be a obs master in a brick truck. Lol

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chillman88

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Yup. I had a brick master on my obs, sat exactly the same. Tilted towards the engine.
If tilted towards the brake master, it must be a obs master in a brick truck. Lol

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Exactly, Thanks! I was wondering if that was the case.
 

DrCharles

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Today I got under my truck and looked... no obvious leaks or stains, the fluid in the clutch master was just a hair below the inside step and I topped it off. The pedal linkage does not have any unusual slack, no deflections or creaks/pops, firewall is not visibly moving.

But the end of the fork is moving only half an inch (or even a bit less) with the pedal to the floor. And since the inspection cover is missing, I can see the pressure plate is barely twitching. Obviously not disengaging the clutch since it won't go into gear sitting still (and grinds reverse). I suspect it's time to get a prebled master/slave setup and pop it on.

Meanwhile, does anyone know what the fork travel should be? :dunno

In my experience most clutches need the outer end of the fork to move closer to 1". If what I'm seeing is normal then the problem may be inside the bellhousing :(
 
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jwsfarrier

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Hi all! I have been following this post and have similar issues with my clutch. I have been looking at my local auto parts stores and no one can get a set with the master/ slave cylinder in a set . let alone one that is pre- bled. Also looked at summit . Nada. I know the rock auto one will fit but it doesnt seem to be the right year. I guess i can always by them separately but the pre- bled set seemed like the way to go. Any recommendations would be of help. Thanks a bunch
 

chillman88

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Hi all! I have been following this post and have similar issues with my clutch. I have been looking at my local auto parts stores and no one can get a set with the master/ slave cylinder in a set . let alone one that is pre- bled. Also looked at summit . Nada. I know the rock auto one will fit but it doesnt seem to be the right year. I guess i can always by them separately but the pre- bled set seemed like the way to go. Any recommendations would be of help. Thanks a bunch

As of right now my recommendation is to buy them separately and bleed them. I have second thoughts about mine simply because I'm worrying about the line not fitting right. I also might have to pull this master back off and see if that rear seal slips off. I'm not sure it's sitting flush on the firewall like it should. But I'm a worrier anyway...
 

jwsfarrier

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Thanks for the replies guys. I have a 1989 with the zf-5. Talked to AutoZone and they didn't have the set for that year. No worries, I can just do separately. I am curious if that 93 kit will work on the 89 though.
 

DrCharles

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I just got a pre-bled Wagner (plastic body) master/slave setup from Rock Auto. The 2-hole mounting flange actually can be rotated so it may fit both angled and straight-up design.

Any tips or tricks to installing this (other than leaving the plastic strap on the slave, as already mentioned)?
 
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