The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
You might consider doing the heim joint mod for the pedal/master while you have everything apart. 10x easier than doing it on the rig!
Proper clutch diagnosis?
- Thread starter chillman88
- Start date
tjsea
Full Access Member
Looks like you got it figured out Chris! Master is definitely the issue. Fix that and you'll be good to go again. Also as long as the pin on the lever is good I wouldn't bother with the heim joint mod. If your pin was wore out that's a different story though. Also when you decide to rebush your other pedal assembly wait to put the lever back on till its all bolted in the truck. That way you will be sure to get it lined up on the correct spline.
pelky350
Full Access Member
If it’s not the master or the fire wall, on my truck that poping noise was my actual pedal assembly the alluminium cracked. Had to spot unless your up there looking at it
I considered it but like @tjsea said everything looks fine there so I'll wait until it's a problem. Shouldn't be too hard with a cutoff wheel. Looks like the hardest part of the mod is getting that arm off to drill it for the bolt.
Yup I'm afraid you hit the nail on the head which is why I'll be rebushing the other pedal assembly. This one DOES have a little more play than I like. I don't think that's the current problem though, just one I need to fix before it BECOMES the current problem!
I'm planning on doing the spare pedal assembly with bronze bushings to hopefully last longer than the nylon since these parts are all either discontinued or will be soon. What good are junkyard parts if they're worse than what you have lol! The pedal box on eBay looked nice but is $250 with $40 shipping. Ouch.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
My clutch is also misbehaving in a similar fashion. A little bit the last time I drove but very noticeable today. In fact I could not get the trans into gear with the engine running. Starting the engine with the trans in gear will start the truck "creeping" even with the pedal on the floor.
But when letting the pedal up, I can feel the clutch engaging further at about half-way up... I'm hoping it's just the hydraulics, and not a piece buckled on the disc itself (or the pilot bushing seizing). Someone said they had the specs for pedal and fork motion, can you please share them?
thanks.
But when letting the pedal up, I can feel the clutch engaging further at about half-way up... I'm hoping it's just the hydraulics, and not a piece buckled on the disc itself (or the pilot bushing seizing). Someone said they had the specs for pedal and fork motion, can you please share them?
thanks.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
If you don't have leaks. Most of these "clutch issues" could be fixed with ledal box bushings and a heim joint.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Im not finding it in any of my scans, Ill dig through my hard copies tomorrow, its one of those things I remember reading when looking for something else, just need to find where I read it. Off the top of my head I want to say it was .5-1" up from pedal stop the clutch should start to catch and should be fully engaged 1" from top of pedal travel.
Heres a breakdown of a bricknose pedal box...
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freebird01
Post Turtle!
The firewall support braces are hit or miss from the factory. Some got the small plate (there are two different ones of these...which is what looks like yours has. bricknose i presume.) but the large plate that i sell was fords afterthought to fix the issue. it is much more substantial then the small plate. the small plate just spreads the load out more. it only marginally helps. it will help prevent the firewall from cracking but not really from oil canning. the large plate ties into the cowl and the trans tunnel with a total of 5 bolts. its 14ga steel and will eliminate flex completely.
the 92+ trucks don't require it because its built into the pedal assembly. so when a 92+ truck has issues...its typically the pedal assembly or the dash support bracket has broken from the firewall.
the 92+ trucks don't require it because its built into the pedal assembly. so when a 92+ truck has issues...its typically the pedal assembly or the dash support bracket has broken from the firewall.
I got the upgraded heim joint from ebay when mine fell apart and did it in the truck. Previous owner had... engineered his own fix. But the ebay fix is really well made and if you do not have firewall issue (although we all will eventually) this may get you on the road
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Here's the one I bought. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/261851765088
There are cheaper ones.
Have a write up around here somewhere.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
There are cheaper ones.
Have a write up around here somewhere.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Thanks, just bought one (only 9 left and 1786 sold!)... figure if I don't need it right now, I will eventually 
@freebird01 I think I will be ok for the time being. I do plan on nailing down quite a few things over the next couple years and your plate is on my list. I'm just hoping I won't have to do it during the winter. This thing BARELY fits in my garage, as in I can kinda shimmy around the front if the back is just barely in... Not really fun but still better than crawling around in the snow.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
No worries man if its not an issue then no need to fix it.
Oh... My... Gosh.
So it's not the "right" part but it works... Kinda. The old master cylinder was kinda offset and the new one isn't... Which makes it sit at a slight angle. The supplied pushrod was about 3/4 inch too short... I reused mine.
It feels like it works but I don't know how long I'll trust it. The part that concerns me the most is the bends in the tube don't seem right. After fighting with it for 45min I finally got the tube into the transmission tunnel. It's all fine and dandy until something rubs through that plastic hose.
So it's not the "right" part but it works... Kinda. The old master cylinder was kinda offset and the new one isn't... Which makes it sit at a slight angle. The supplied pushrod was about 3/4 inch too short... I reused mine.
It feels like it works but I don't know how long I'll trust it. The part that concerns me the most is the bends in the tube don't seem right. After fighting with it for 45min I finally got the tube into the transmission tunnel. It's all fine and dandy until something rubs through that plastic hose.
