ZF questions....

BigRigTech

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Now that I have my ZF installed and I got a chance to drive it I noticed 2 things:

1: The shifter is pretty sloppy, is this normal for a ZF?. It has 275,000km on it. I have a spare ZF and shift tower, i wonder if I should try and swap it....?

2: I have A LOT of freeplay, the clutch does disengage but I'd like to see it disengaded a little more as it feels like there is still tension on the synchro's when you try to shift it. I was going to rotate the clutch arm under the dash to take some of the freeplay out unless there is a better suggestion? There is very little pedal effort, nice and smooth - just too much freeplay. My pressure plate looked ok and the used LUK clutch was in good shape.
 

towcat

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You're not going to get precision like a racecar, but you shouldn't be all over the place either. Change out the towers but also pay close attention to the two plastic blocks that center the assy in the top of the trans.
As far as your mushy clutch is concerned, you still got too much air in the system.
 

BigRigTech

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My spare ZF trans tower is A LOT tighter so I'm going to put it on tonight and try it out. The clutch isn't mushy, it just has too much freeplay. I'm 1" from the clutch pedal "bump stop" before it's hard against the release bearing. I'll try bleeding it some more as well for ***** and giggles. I can't remember, do you need to pull just the shifter or the tower as well to change the plastic bushings?
 
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towcat

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My spare ZF trans tower is A LOT tighter so I'm going to put it on tonight and try it out. The clutch isn't mushy, it just has too much freeplay. I'm 1" from the clutch pedal "bump stop" before it's hard against the release bearing. I'll try bleeding it some more as well for ***** and giggles. I can't remember, do you need to pull just the shifter or the tower as well to change the plastic bushings?
try this idea...
it's a little messy but it does help get the remaining are out of the clutch slave. use a short prybar to "push" the clutch slave pushrod into the housing. there's roughly about an inch of travel there and I can bet you'll find air bubbles. As you're "pushing", open up the bleeder screw and wait for your brake fluid shower. close off the screw when the rod bottoms out in the housing. check on top to make sure the reservoir has enough fluid in it. repeat procedure until you get a colid stream of brake fluid coming out.
good luck......
 

BigRigTech

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All is fixed, swapping the shift towers and moving the clutch arm made a big difference. I would have liked a tiny bit of freeplay but the cross shaft splines dictated where it had to go....I took it for a longer drive tonight, it works good, no grinding or growling in the tranny. No vibrations or leaks. All that's left is to fab the 4wd shifter linkage (have a plan for that in mind), paint all the new goodies and undercoat the truck....It will be nice to drive the old girl to work on Monday, it will have been 1 day short of a month in my garage. Ya can't row it through the gears like a Honda but it works good and I'm happy as a pig in ****:peelout :Thumbs Up :cheers:
 

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