Zerex G-05

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Around the 4 min mark he's talking about the reasons why ELC cannot be used in IDI and first gen PSD's;

"The problem child that was running around out there,was known as an acid called: 2EH"

Interesting.Especially him using the world "was" Like it was a problem only in past ELC's or something?

Min 6:30 mark he speaks about the acid 2EH again.

Around the 7:40 mark:
"You have to flush the system with conventional every 15k miles."


Not with the Fleet Charge and a penray coolant filter you don't.


Q: What is meant by the term Fill-For-Life technology?

A: The Fill-for-Life alternative provides for easy, low cost monitoring of the coolant inhibitor and freeze protection levels. Fill-For-Life is an extended service maintenance program developed by FLEET CHARGE® and Penray researchers. It is very simple. Users simply install a Penray Need-Release filter on an engine coolant system (up to 30 gallons). Every 18 months the filter is replaced. This practice eliminates scheduled coolant changes.

This is what I do for my commercial trucks.I fill with 50/50 Fleet Charge and change out a penray need release filter each season.No test strips,no liquid SCA's,no fuss.


So I suppose the question is,can you and have you found an ELC that no longer has the problem child acid in it,known as 2EH? If so,then that should state in it's specs that it's compatible with the older engines I would guess?
Since I use the simple Fleet Charge w/ penray filters I never felt a desire to research modern ELC coolants.So ELC users who have done your homework,do share what you've found about ELC coolants and old problem child acid etc.Inquiring minds want to know.Do you need to dig for ELC that no longer have 2EH or is 2EH simply a thing of the past of all ELC now etc.etc.

 

[88 Ford]

Page 3 of the old Safety Data Sheet from 2007 shows the old formula of Zerex ELC. It had 2-EH in it.

http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/728569pdf?$PDF$

Here is the updated one from 2015 and on page 2 it does not show any 2-EH. From what I can tell, it looks safe to run.


http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/704563pdf?$PDF$

 

[pelky350]

On the subjects of coolant and stuff I was just thinking about when I changed my heater core out it was a brass style that match the radiator and I put a aluminium one back in there because that's what parts store gave me and I didn't even think about it, when I changed out my bronco heater core it was factory aluminium and it has a aluminum radiator also. Should heater cores be made the same as the radiator so the metals match? They thought so back in the day since that's how it came stock is there a reason they should match? Or does it really matter?

 

[franklin2]

On the subjects of coolant and stuff I was just thinking about when I changed my heater core out it was a brass style that match the radiator and I put a aluminium one back in there because that's what parts store gave me and I didn't even think about it, when I changed out my bronco heater core it was factory aluminium and it has a aluminum radiator also. Should heater cores be made the same as the radiator so the metals match? They thought so back in the day since that's how it came stock is there a reason they should match? Or does it really matter?

If you run the old green coolant that you can run sca's in, that coolant has no silicates in it. Silcates are not compatible with the sca additives. But guess what? Silicates are there to protect aluminum in the coolant system. So guys with brass/copper radiators and heater cores are fine, if there is any aluminum in your cooling system and you are running the green coolant with sca's, then the aluminum has no protection.

That is why I went to G05, since I am running a aluminum radiator.

 

[pelky350]

I want to run a aluminium radiator but they don't sel one for the short wide radiators so I have to change core supports before I can get one unless I have custom one made

 

[CDX825]

ELC is the only way to go in my book. No need to fuss with SCAs. The service life is much longer and its better for your water pump. Your cooling system will also stay spotless with it.

But if you decide to run ELC you need to find one that has the Cummins CES 14603 spec on it. This spec means its safe on older seals and gaskets. It contains no 2-EHA.

Final charge is one of the few ELCs that contain no 2-EHA

You guys brought up 2-EHA. The stuff is bad news. Its whats in GMs dexcool that is responsible for eating lower intake manifold gaskets. Its also in most of your all makes all models coolants. Fords new orange coolant that is coming in all their new vehicles also contains 2-EHA.

 

[lude and rude]

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_Extended_Life_AFC_Technical_Bulletin.pdf

the VALVOLINE™ ZEREX™ EXTENDED LIFE ANTIFREEZE DIESEL READY fits all the above stuff if your wanting to know. it doesnt have the 2-EHA. and is compliant with cummins and cat specs.

 

[pelky350]

It's in there now! New thermostat sits ate 190' and so far nothing catastrophic has happened with that antifreeze in there lol

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

If you run the old green coolant that you can run sca's in, that coolant has no silicates in it. Silcates are not compatible with the sca additives. But guess what? Silicates are there to protect aluminum in the coolant system. So guys with brass/copper radiators and heater cores are fine, if there is any aluminum in your cooling system and you are running the green coolant with sca's, then the aluminum has no protection.

That is why I went to G05, since I am running a aluminum radiator.

Silicates are absolutely compatible with "SCAs" (sodium nitrite and sodium molybdate). Too much of any of the 3 will cause issues though. Your best protection against aluminum is keeping the pH below 8.5 which won't happen on any coolant designed to protect steel/iron all of that coolant is 10-11.0. tolyltriazole is the best protection for aluminum in an engine that has copper anywhere (including brass). Suspended copper will destroy aluminum in a very short time. azole forms a bond around copper ions to prevent them from plating off onto aluminum - this will cause a pin hole failure. Copper is the biggest contributing factor to alumium failure followed by pH. Sodium molybdate will also inhibit corrosion to aluminum. I believe the Ford additive contains both sodium nitrite (high temperature steel corrosion inhbitor, oxygen neutralizer) and sodium molybdate (excellent corrosion inhibitor to most all metals) and i suspect it contains tolyltriazole.

None of the off the 4 off shelf coolants i tested contained any detectable molybdate level i was able to see. All had around 2200ppm of sodium nitrite and 2000ppm of alkalinity (borate as a typical buffer). I suspect if they didnt contain molybdate they also did not contain azole which i did not test for becuase its about a 20 minute test.

I believe the old style silicate based treatments were not compatable with phosphate based treatment which will form deposits in the presense of any hard water addition to the system.

 

[chris142]

Dont forget that distilled water is about 4 on the ph scale. So when you mix it with 11ph coolant you end up around 7ph

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

That's not true at all. There is no buffering capacity in Di water. It will accept whatever pH your coolant is. Your coolant is 10-11

 

[Macrobb]

That's not true at all. There is no buffering capacity in Di water. It will accept whatever pH your coolant is. Your coolant is 10-11

So does this mean you should use DI water or tap water(which has some buffering capacity I guess, but other things like chlorine too)?

 

[pelky350]

New coolant and thermostat runnin a steady 190' now last thermostat was stuck open what a difference it makes now that it can warm up again lol

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

So does this mean you should use DI water or tap water(which has some buffering capacity I guess, but other things like chlorine too)?

Always di water. Tap water will have maybe 200ppm of alkalinity. Di water, less than 5ppm. Chlorine at 1ppm isn't bad sodium nitrite will neutralize it instantly, but hardness from tap water can form magnesium silicate on heat transfer surfaces with the presence of silica in most coolant (and even tap water) Coolant comes with over 4,000ppm of alkalinity to be diluted down to 2,000ppm or so and still hold a steady pH. A pH of 10-11 is fine. Carbon steel and iron have the lowest corrosion rate at this pH. The idea is to protect the metals at the heat source as corrosion happens first at the heat load. A radiator or heater core is much cheaper than a cylinder liner

 

[rwk]

FWIW, a Ford product I used in my Ford diesel tractor for 20 years,probably no good any more, just changed it out with the zerex elc now. Skull and crossbones leads me to believe the stuff is no longer available, it was last century! lol Shawn,you would now about the chemicals I assume.

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