WVO questions

[payableondeath6]

I'm kind of piecing a WVO setup together as things go on, slowly working my way up to hopefully something that'll run me through the Ohio winter even.

The last couple days it's been a little cool (58-63*F) in the mornings (leave the house at 5am for work) and I haven't switched to my rear tank (WVO) for fear of it being too cool and the stuff being too thick (this morning when I briefly switched my "Fuel Filter" light came on and went off as soon as I switched back to B20). I don't have any problems at all running it on my way home from work when it's warmer (80-90*F) out.

Right now my setup is just to take it from my 55 gallon drums at the chinese restaurant and pump it into 5 gallon buckets via a 10gpm hand crank pump, then I use the same pump to pump it from the buckets through a 10 micron GoldenRod fuel filter and into my rear tank...then it runs through factory from there.

My first step is going to be to add a couple gallons of B20 to the rear tank to thin it up a little for the cool mornings, but I'd like to start adding stuff so I can run it (at least a 50/50 mix) in cooler weather as fall and winter approach. My first step was going to be to wrap the stock fuel filter with a coolant line similar to what's seen here, but I just wanted to make sure that would be ok to do as regular diesel will be heated when I'm on the diesel tank? Aside from that as weather mandates and time allows I was going to add another coolant wrapped filter specifically for the WVO rear tank and then add from there.

Also, anyone know off hand what size the coolant lines are I need to T into?

I'll have more questions I'm sure as I go on. Many thanks to all those of you I've already talked to and have helped me

 

[argve]

looks pretty decent but I would use copper tubing myself as copper transfers heat way better than rubber. But you won't have a problem with hot diesel fuel in the winter. Won't effect it at all.

 

[payableondeath6]

looks pretty decent but I would use copper tubing myself as copper transfers heat way better than rubber. But you won't have a problem with hot diesel fuel in the winter. Won't effect it at all.

I agree, I'd thought about using copper as it will transfer much better and then wrapping the outside with rubber or foam, but I just didn't know what kind of fittings I'd use to go from the heater hose to the copper and I don't have a torch for brazing (although one can be picked up cheap). Any tips? Or I guess I'll just wander around the plumbing aisle at the local hardware shop a while and see if anything strikes my eye.

 

[hheynow]

Don't use copper in your fuel system!!! It reacts with the acids in WVO and may cause polimerization in your tank and through the system. Another metal to avoid is zinc so galvanized pipe is not good either. Acceptable metals are aluminum, ss, brass and bronze and black pipe (iron).

BUT, for a coolant heated filter copper should be OK. Can you fabricate the copper loop tight enough around the filter for proper heat transfer and still have wiggle room to remove it when you change the filter? That's why I believe the wrapped hose to be a better method. Remember that the hose gets compressed into a "D" shape for better surface area contact. The copper at best will remain an "O".

My .02

 

[payableondeath6]

Don't use copper in your fuel system!!! It reacts with the acids in WVO and may cause polimerization in your tank and through the system. Another metal to avoid is zinc so galvanized pipe is not good either. Acceptable metals are aluminum, ss, brass and bronze and black pipe (iron).

Understood, I've done lots of reading

BUT, for a coolant heated filter copper should be OK. Can you fabricate the copper loop tight enough around the filter for proper heat transfer and still have wiggle room to remove it when you change the filter? That's why I believe the wrapped hose to be a better method. Remember that the hose gets compressed into a "D" shape for better surface area contact. The copper at best will remain an "O".
My .02

That's a good point about the contact area and ease of removing the filter. Couple those with the fact that rubber will be easier for someone like myself and I think I'll start there. The best would probably be to make a sleeve out of a sheet of copper and then spiral a copper line cut in half and soldered on around the thing...but that would be hard to make

 

[Greenbeast6.9]

go on ebay and buy a heat exchanger. that is what i have and it works great!!

 

[payableondeath6]

go on ebay and buy a heat exchanger. that is what i have and it works great!!

I have yet to check Ebay for anything yet. What's a good plate amount for a climate like Ohio? What's a "good" price for that plate mount on ebay?

Looking at a couple 30 and 50 plates and was just curious

 

[payableondeath6]

Bought some 5/8" heater hose, brass T's, and hose clamps to wrap my stock fuel filter. Just wanted to make sure I was splicing in to the right hoses before I did anything. These are on the passenger side, one runs from the head to the firewall and I forget where the other runs from, but here's a pic:

 

[argve]

Yep them be the ones... the one from the head is the the input line to the heater core (or output line from engine) the other line goes to the water pump. The water pump sucks is an easy way to remember...

 

[payableondeath6]

Yep them be the ones... the one from the head is the the input line to the heater core (or output line from engine) the other line goes to the water pump. The water pump sucks is an easy way to remember...

Thanks a ton Still quite the newb on this WVO stuff and the truck in general. Will work on making up a wrap tonight


Another question, FPHE...where do most 2 tank setups usually plumb them in and mount them? I thought in the engine bay but didn't know how I could do that and still use the stock tank switching valve?

 

[hheynow]

Another question, FPHE...where do most 2 tank setups usually plumb them in and mount them? I thought in the engine bay but didn't know how I could do that and still use the stock tank switching valve?

Rearward of the 6 port switching valve. There are 4 rearward ports. Rear tank to engine, rear tank return, front tank to engine and front tank return. Splice it in the front tank to engine line. As far as mounting it, mine is outside the frame rail near the 6 port. BUT, my conversion did away with the OEM fuel lines and replaced them with bioD compatible hose. I cut the hose and used hose barbs.

 

[payableondeath6]

Rearward of the 6 port switching valve. There are 4 rearward ports. Rear tank to engine, rear tank return, front tank to engine and front tank return. Splice it in the front tank to engine line. As far as mounting it, mine is outside the frame rail near the 6 port. BUT, my conversion did away with the OEM fuel lines and replaced them with bioD compatible hose. I cut the hose and used hose barbs.

Thanks, now I just gotta get in the manual and under the truck and see where the switching valve is. Found a pic on Autozone.com showing the line routing and it doesn't so the valve so it must be forward of that.

What would be a good plate amount for a cold climate? If I can run WVO for 3 seasons a year I'd be happy. I'm thinking stock fuel filter coolant wrapped, WVO fuel filter heated (12V or coolant), HIH lines, FPHE, and a 12v stick-on pad heater for the tank. I'm trying to avoid having to drop the tank and mess with it.

 

[hheynow]

It's tucked INSIDE the driver's side frame rail about as forward as where the front tank is.

 

[payableondeath6]

It's tucked INSIDE the driver's side frame rail about as forward as where the front tank is.

Thanks, crawled around while changing my transmission fluid last night and found it.

What do you think about this setup for Ohio and probably going with a 50/50 mix in winter?

 

[hheynow]

What do you think about this setup for Ohio and probably going with a 50/50 mix in winter?

Wisdom dictates that you put a temp gauge to monitor the veg oil temp. It's hard to say if these plans will get you to above 160*F. A good insulated system will function in the coldest winters. I think you'll wind up needing a 12v Vegtherm Mega in-line heater AFTER the switching valve. I see 180*F once fully warm.