Won't start, help me.

seawalkersee

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So I pulled my injectors and had the tested by a buddie of mine. We only had to test four of them to show that I needed at least a rebuild. So I picked up a set off of e-bay for $100 bux or so. When they came, they looked pretty good and were sealed seperately. It took me FOREVER to have all the air bled out of the system. I finally got it to start and it sounded different and had the actual smell of diesel. I could only run it for a few minutes and had to leave to get to work. It was smoking about the same still and I figured it was blowing off what was in the intake (got it running on Liquid wrench).

I went out and tried to start it yesterday with no go. I have a full tank of oil. Should I run an aux tank of diesel to get it going or is there maybe a better way to get it started?

SWS
 

Agnem

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I would never attempt to evaluate the condition of new injectors on anything other than clean diesel. If you find a problem, and try to return them, you might have your warranty rejected when they find junk fuel in them. As an aside, putting liquid anything in your intake in an attempt to get your engine started is foolish at best. Never NEVER put anything liquid in your engine to start it. Even Either is not great when used properly, and that would require disabling your glow plugs.
 

seawalkersee

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Why do injectors get the tips replaced? I have to ask since mine were all full of grime and such. Will just cleaning them make the difference?

SWS
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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The tips are what actually does the atomizing of the fuel. They will wear over time from the constant opening and closing producing a poor spray pattern.

Running an injector cleaner additive does help prolong their life, but they are a wear item.


In this pic, the one on the left is a good used tip that still operates and sprays decent. The one on the right has the pintle seized open from excessive heat and was dumping un atomized fuel straight into the cylinder and was actually causing minor hydro locking to occur in the cylinder..... NOT a good sound either I might add.:puke:
 

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seawalkersee

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I think part of the issue is the crappy GPC I have. I have to jump it in order to get the glow plugs to stay lit for any time. Usually it goes click, click, click, several times. I have used a test light to check it and it flashes as well so I know as soon as the relay makes contact, it turns off.

Today I threw some fire at it with a batt charger and a car running/jumping it as well. When it started, it blew black smoke into my garage, and tons of it. It ran the same and pushed the white smoke out the tailpipe and there was a miss/rough running while it was sitting in the driveway. As soon as I started to drive it up the driveway, I immediately noticed a HUGE difference in the way it ran. I continued to stay out of the throttle and just putt around the neighborhood to get to the highway.

Once I hit the highway, it blew grey smoke allllllllllll down the side of the road for about 1/8th mile. As I continued to drive it, it seemed to run smoother and I could stand on it and run it through the gears and would rev much higher than with the previous injectors. For the first time (mind you I have only put about 500 miles on it), black smoke when I stood on it. Seriously good feeling.

Got back home, threw my oil recovery stuff in the rear and went to go get the kids... Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaalllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly slow cranking. Took the battery out and tried to charge it. No go. Figured I would get two since it was supposed to come with two.

We will see how it goes tomarrah with two batteries. I still need a new GPC (anyone have a spare they want to unload that actually works?). I want a gear reduction starter for it as well to speed up the crankin. And....I am getting a bearing/roaring noise after it warms up from either the tranny or the t-case. I want to get a 5spd anyway and a bit steeper gears.

SWS
 

Diesel JD

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What kind of GP controller do you have? If its the stock 83-86 system you don't want that in there anyway. You have all the stuff you need to rig up a momentary toggle. You want an 8 second burn not much longer or you'll kill the plugs. Personally I'd rather put 6V to the plugs or swap in some 12V GM plugs from an old 5.7 slow glow system, or go all the way and swap in a solid state controller(87-94) and some ZD-9 bullet style berus. It also may be possible to use GM fast glow PTC glow plugs an use either their late style controller or a Ford/IH solid state system. The advantage would be not having to get an 87-up IH glow plug harness and you could still use your spade connectors. I can't positively say that that last fix would work but the momentary toggle or a full on solid state conversion would work very very well. I also suggest start and stop on diesel or biodiesel instead of the fuel cocktail, meaning the first cold start of the day and purge the system with clean diesel/bio for at least 5-10 minutes of driving before you park it for the night.
 

seawalkersee

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I have a later style GPC wired in. It was new, twice and has never worked twice. Lost the reciept and you know from there. Problem was I had not had it runnin' when I purchased the first GPC. Then after I got it runnin, the GPC didn't work. Got another one and it worked......ONE TIME. Of course, I was still in the building process of installing the diesel in my Bronco.

I am still trying to figure out a way to put an aux tank in the back. I am thinking I can mount a gladhands style line mount in the back of the bed with a mount for like a 5 gal tank for diesel. That way I can mount and pull it in the winter and not have to worry about fuel gelling. Aparently I need to do it for the summer too.

SWS
 

Diesel JD

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SWS, I bet its not the controller. You need to ohm out those glow plugs. You have a loose connection or two or an open GP or two. Also those controllers really need the ZD-9 motorcraft to work the best they can, or as a second choice something like Delphi or SLM or the Borg Warner plugs. If they are autolites or champs, they won't work very well with the solid state controller.
 

seawalkersee

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Actually, they are GM. I replaced 4 of them (not sure what kind the older ones are) when I first got it in and running. They have only been in for a few months (less than 500mi mind you) and three of them were replaced two days ago.

So...what are the values of the GPs?

SWS
 

Diesel JD

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Not real sure on the GM's are they AC Delco 7G or 8G? If they are like the beru ZD-9s usually anything less than 2 ohms is good. Most bad plugs are open with resistance approaching infinity. Normally you can pick them out with a test light even...not always. Did it ever work right? By right I mean they controller should leave them on 7-10 seconds or so when cold.
 

jtate

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you said you have a later style gpc wired into the system as of now. when you put the new controller did you also change the gp to the later style? if not your running a later style controller with older style gp,s that are 6volt plugs. the older set up supplies 12volts to 6volt gp, where the newer setup supplies 12volts to 12volt gp,s.
 

Diesel JD

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No he's running Government Motors glow plugs which are PTC plugs like our berus only there is no need to change the harness and switch to the bullet connectors as he would have with ZD9s. He probably has 8G fast glow PTC plugs by AC Delco. It should work. I bet he finds a loose spade connector or 2 or more open GPs. I have never owned a GM diesel so I don't know how good these plugs are.
 

seawalkersee

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They are AC Delco GPs for the 86 engine. The GPC is a 92 7.3 unit that was upgraded. The GPC worked once and has gone click, click, click since. I still have the spade style connectors and checked the GPs less than a week ago with the test light and replaced three of them...and like I said, it has been less than 500 mi.

SWS
 

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