Window Motor Replacement

[icanfixall]

Well, My passenger side window wont go up or down. I have power leaving the drivers side switches but have not checked at the motor yet. My big question is where do I drill holes in the door to gain access to the nuts and bolts that hold it in place. Also do I need to set it "timed" in the door...

 

[GenLightening]

My '90 has huge openings to get to the motor. It does look like you have to drill the rivets to remove the motor. I have the right motor available if you need one. I'll be going over to pull the remainder of the parts this weekend.

 

[reklund]

As I remember, the door has dimples in it to drill holes in the inner skin to gain access to drill the rivets on the regulator out while leaving the regulator riveted in place on the door. Given the age of these trucks...sometimes it's not a bad idea to replace the regulator too...

Ryan

 

[85hauler]

Reklund is correct. Drill at the 2 dimples to gain access to the bolts for the motor. It doesn't need to be "timed" when reinstalling.

 

[HammerDown]

Replaced both of mine years back...Auto-Zone had a pretty good price on them as I recall. Under $50 smakers each complete units.
No "timing" required...just wedge the window all the way up with a long stick of wood etc for removal and install. You'll access the motor bolts when the dimples are drilled out as mentioned above. Think I used a 1/2" drill.
It's a little wiggling act for replacement but not bad at all.

 

[NJGearhead666]

yea minimum half inch drill bit. I did it last year when i put new regulators in the power window motor. just like Hammerdown said ducttape the window all the way up then drill your holes on the dimples and your set.

 

[reklund]

My suggestion rather than a 1/2" drill bit is to use a 5/8" hole saw. Cleaner hole and more room to work without the worry of damaging what's behind the panel.

Ryan

 

[HammerDown]

My suggestion rather than a 1/2" drill bit is to use a 5/8" hole saw. Cleaner hole and more room to work without the worry of damaging what's behind the panel.

Ryan

I say take a cutting torch to the damn inside panel

 

[Dirtleg]

My suggestion rather than a 1/2" drill bit is to use a 5/8" hole saw. Cleaner hole and more room to work without the worry of damaging what's behind the panel.

Ryan

This is also what I did when I removed my motors. Mine had sheared the bushings between the drive gear and regulator gear hub. I replaced the bushings with short cut sections of 5/16" fuel line. (I was doing my best Mcgyver imitation at the time)
They are still working a year later. IMO worth the $100 I saved. I have seen just the bushings on EBAY for under $15.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

These bushings were gone in my motors too, ended up replacing them with 1/4 nuts, regular steelies work just fine (you need 6 per motor). Motors have since died, and I replaced them with the rear motors off my Lincoln, but I did swap out the steel-drive hubs in these "new" motors, so far tis been a few months and tis all good.

 

[adrianspeeder]

Do not drill any rivets.

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For a spinning motor but no movement,

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About 35 for pre mid '92 motors, 4 for a new gearset, and less than 1 for the new torque pins.

Adrianspeeder

 

[Andylad13]

yes you have to drill the dimples out, i used a unibit to about the 5/8 to 7/8 size hole.

 

[icanfixall]

Ok... These dimples that some say to drill out and others say do not drill them out... I really don't inderstand what I see on my door. I have some large rivets that look just like the door lock rivets. They seem to be holding in place the regulater. Could this have been replaced before and thats how it was done??? It looks like I need to remove 3 bolts 1/4 inch head that are behind the skin and behind the "dimples". If so I can do that with a unibit easily. Is this a Ford only item and how much for the Ford part as compared to aftermarket??? I really don't want to do this job again because of all the Fat Mat insulation that has to be "moved" for access... Is the "dimples" a Ford better idea finally....

 

[Andylad13]

I know what rivets you are looking at. dont drill them!!! look for the dimples in the pic above, you'll see the exact thing. only drill the dimples, if you cant find them, dont drill anything till you do. the unibit will work beautifully, thats how i did it.

after it comes out and the new one is in, the only hard part left is balancing the bolt in the socket when you put it through the hole you drilled.

 

[GenLightening]

Near where the motor is there are 2 very small dimples that mark where the bolts are to remove the motor. I'd also drill/notch the one that you can actually see, but not get a straight shot on at the front. I used a unibit as well. The rivets are for removing the regulator, if needed. There are aftermatket motors available.