Where to begin? 7.3 IDI sitting for a year.

[IDIoit]

yup, i use ultra black.

 

[marmot]

Cool I have some RTV in my boxes. I picked up batteries from costco today at lunch, 180$ for 2 interstate type 4's 850cca. I have had the truck plugged in for two days so she should be warm for tomorrows test fire. The temps are supposed to be in the mid thirties so wrenching should be easier. I will let you all know how it goes.

 

[marmot]

Well I have been try to start my truck for the last half hour. I opened the filter drain and clean diesel came out, the tank is 1/2 full and the fuel pump line at the filter flows fine so the fp is working. I have been cranking the motor and cracking the injector lines and I still do not see fuel at the injectors. I have a clear line from the filter housing to the ip and it filled right away. The truck turns over fine and the glow plugs seem to work so I am off to pick up some ether and new battery charger as I ran mine over last week.

 

[sjwelds]

Don't. Use. Ether. Not unless you first make darn sure the glow plugs are cold!

Does the fuel shutoff connection on the IP have power to it with the key on? I believe it's the forward connection on the driver's side of the pump. Un-attach and reattach with the key on and you should hear an audible click as the solenoid opens.....

 

[Iowa 73]

Like said above, check the FSS. I would also fill the fuel filter with ATF.

 

[marmot]

good solid click from the fss but still no fuel to the injectors, I just bought a new battery charger so I am recharging now. Engine is warm to the touch, just poured five more gallons of fuel in the tank and I am doing some serious head scratching, the good news is the engine sounds healthy when I crank it with some good resistance so I have hope,

 

[sjwelds]

Sounds good. A healthy starter and batteries are needed as well. The faster that high-compression engine can spin, the better.

 

[marmot]

Well still no fuel to the lines I double checked the fuel pump output and it is squirting like heck into the bottle. The clear fuel line to the IP is full, the fuel shutoff solenoid clicks fine. Tomorrow I am going to go with the atf in the filter but I would think it should at least have fuel to the lines by now with that much cranking. I have new batteries, a good charger and it turns over really well. Could it be a bad IP? Even if the timing was off it should pump fuel no? I sure hope it's not a bad pump cause it is spanking new. Am I missing something?

PS just filled the filter with atf and tried some more and I see no color change in the fuel line to the IP? Well It's dark so I am pulling out the lights. I am really confused about what would prevent any fuel form flowing from the IP to the lines. All I can think is fss but that makes a really nice click.

 

[typ4]

Is there a tag on the pump saying who built it? It will pump fuel no matter how its timed. You may have a dead player there. If you have fuel at pump inlet, it should be at injectors in 30-45 seconds of cranking. For me anyway, I know this because the dually left me stranded on a hill the other day. Cracking lines on the freeway is no fun

 

[marmot]

Damn thats what I figured. I did not see a tag I'll look again. Thanks.

EDIT It is a standyne pump I just want to confirm that the connector with two wires on the fss is supposed to be on spade terminal closest to the cab?

 

[marmot]

Well I am pretty frustrated right now. I still have no fuel at the injectors? Is there a way to confirm that the FFS is functioning? beyond that I may have a bad IP. I bought the truck because of the new ip and injectors. Time for a beer or six...

 

[icanfixall]

Ok heres what we need to know. The top of the injection pump has 2 spade connectors. The connector closest to the radiator is the large fuel shutoff solenoid wire. Its nearly impossible to make it connect to the rear spade connector closest to the firewall which is a smaller spade connector. Easy way to know all the air is out of the injection pump is finding it squirting out a loose hard line at any injector. VERY LITTLE fuel is actually pumped thru the hard lines. Most of what goes thru them is return thats used as a lube and coolant for the injectors. Now thats talked about please remove the return hose or line from the top of the injection pump Fuel MUST be flowing out of that line or the engine will not start. Please don't remove the top of the injection pump. Installing it wrong is a huge potential and an engine runaway is going to happen. NOTHING can shut down a runaway because the injection pump is supplying fuel uncontrolled to the engine. No governor will slow down the rpm either. The engine screams till it unloads a rod thru the block usually. This is just telling you what can happen. Many here can walk you thru the replacement of the pump top. Even then if you try to start the engine its a good idea to have a piece of plywood to cover the open intake. Only cutting off the air will kill a runaway. See the u tube vids how those darwin award winners kill diesel runaways. Its comical. Now if you fuel comes out the return on top of the pump maybe that black check valve has failed. Its removable easily too. Just unscrew it but know there is an o ring under it that seals it to the pump. Fuel will only flow out of the valve. Nothing can or will flow back thru this valve into the pump. Finally the best note is crank the engine at full throttle. That way more diesel is pushed thru the fuel system.

 

[marmot]

Thanks for the reply. So I have 12v to both spade connectors when the ignition is on. If I disconnect the spade closest to the radiator I get a nice loud click and again when I reconnect it clicks. So far I have NO noticeable fuel at any of the injector lines I have cranked it 10+ minutes total. There is fuel weeping from the return line at the top of the pump, I will pull the line and have a look at the flow. Thanks for the heads up on runaways.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Remember to take breaks between cranking for the health of the starter and glow plugs. Clearly without making a change in the engine compartment there is no point in cranking the engine anyway. I am curious about the clear hose you have on there. Is it airtight? Did you try cranking with the stock metal line on? Do you have all the injector line nuts cracked at the injectors or at the pump? Is there fuel leaking from the pump? Underneath the pump into the pan?

Sounds like you're checking the obvious just be patient, you'll figure it out!

 

[IDIoit]

i got a stupid question, did you take the hard line off of the filter to the lift pump?
does it have fuel coming out of there?
perhaps a bad lift pump???
would be pretty comical if they replaced a IP due to a bad lift pump........