What should I pay for high quality IDI injectors?

Optikalillushun

Registered User
Joined
Aug 25, 2007
Posts
2,840
Reaction score
1
Location
Coal Region, Pa
i bought 8 injectors brand new from pennsicola diesel for around 125 bucks about six months ago. I think they were delphi. I found them on a ebay store and they shipped them right out. i would definetly use them again.

as did i. i bought rebuilt injectors to G (turbo) specs and they said the pop off pressure was tested at thier facility before being shipping and it ranged from 2100-2300 (i think, i cant remember). but i paid $120 shipped to my door, they dont list em on ebay so call.
 

mankypro

Learning Slowly...
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
Posts
1,730
Reaction score
1
Location
Boulder County, Colorado
So what series injectors should I be buying? I'm currently NA but hopefully will be able to bolt on the turbo in a few weeks. I'm fairly sure that I need injectors and/or a new IP. I'm doing injectors first to see if that helps.

I have what would seem to be a lack of power that wasn't there before...
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
Either BB or G injectors are good. If I went with G codes I'd want a modified pump like Mel's Moose Pump or equivalent pr at least the factory turbo pump. That could get as expensive as a Moose pump though cause they probably will not accept your 6.9 DB2 as a core for a turbo cal pump. I don't know if using a stock 6.9 pump with G codes is a good idea or not, that's gonna have to be your call. I've heard only lots of good things about almost everybody mentioned except for DPS and Dieselcare.
 

mankypro

Learning Slowly...
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
Posts
1,730
Reaction score
1
Location
Boulder County, Colorado
Is there a list of injector codes out there that I can look at to tell what each type is for?

And what would occur if I put turbo injectors in an NA engine?
 
Last edited:

FordGuy100

Registered User
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Posts
8,749
Reaction score
282
Location
Silverton, OR
Is there a list of injector codes out there that I can look at to tell what each type is for?

And what would occur if I put turbo injectors in an NA engine?

Here is sort of a list, doesnt really specify the difference between the models though, just what year each code injector came in. I'll just copy and paste it from Oregon fuel injections website.

A or AA code injectors: 6.9L 1983 and early 1984 models
B, BB, C, or D code injectors: 6.9/7.3L 1984-1992.5
E code injectors: 7.3L 1992.5-1994
G code injectors: 7.3L turbo diesel 1993-1994

Okay, here is what I have gathered. Yes I fubared my injectors, there leaking, lets not get into that, it always seems like people start posting off how did I do that and what not, lets just stay away from that :D. Anyways, G code injectors, that came in the turbo motors, have a different shaped tip, which is hardly noticable by a quick glance, and you would only notice it if you were looking. Its more of a U shaped, rather than a V shaped (on BB codes anyways). I guess they have slightly larger holes in the tip, nothing much bigger though, some crazy small number like .002" if I remember right. They have a higher pop of pressure, so this is where it gets kinda tricky. If you stuck in new G codes injectors, and had the timing set for BB code injectors, your truck will run a couple degree's retarted. This is because the higher pop off pressure means it will take a fraction of a second longer before the pressure in the lines is met and the injector will fire off. So, you would have to compensate that by advancing your pump slightly. With the turbo pump, I believe they are calibrated for the difference, and they in turn run a little more advanced than a regular N/A pump. You DONT need turbo injectors when you turbo a N/A IDI, they are not required. Some say you can get more performance from G codes, others say they are more of an emmisions injector. Its all up to you, but when I go to buy new injectors, its just going to be BB codes.
 

69dieselfreak

well that nice
Joined
Mar 21, 2008
Posts
1,349
Reaction score
0
Location
rimrock arizona
you know the only way to tell the difference would be to do some kind of dyno test to see what g codes and bb code injectors do and all the others also that would be nice if one of us had acess to a dyno
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,109
Reaction score
1,394
Location
Newberg,OR
If you run G codes with a stock NA pump, it could change your timing considerably, The higher pop pressure makes it late. The G's have a finer spray pattern, I have tried both, and I like my rebuilt BB's better.

In fact I Have a "new" set of G codes I will sell, they have 10 k on them before my piston issue, and they are freshly cleaned and set to matched pressure. New ones take a set and they were all over the map . now they are within 60 lbs and I stood there and watched them do it. They are set between turbo spec and na spec for pressure, 1900 lbs iirc
Pm me if interested.
 

69dieselfreak

well that nice
Joined
Mar 21, 2008
Posts
1,349
Reaction score
0
Location
rimrock arizona
Either BB or G injectors are good. If I went with G codes I'd want a modified pump like Mel's Moose Pump or equivalent pr at least the factory turbo pump. That could get as expensive as a Moose pump though cause they probably will not accept your 6.9 DB2 as a core for a turbo cal pump. I don't know if using a stock 6.9 pump with G codes is a good idea or not, that's gonna have to be your call. I've heard only lots of good things about almost everybody mentioned except for DPS and Dieselcare.

hector with injectors on ebay will take a 6.9 DB2 and bring it up to turbo spec for 350 buckeroos:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,159
Reaction score
82
Location
Glenolden Pa
Sooooo the question may be...IF "new" injectors need to be tested because they might be faulty, are the remanufactured injectors the way to go...are they pop tested and who the heck can one trust for QUALITY workmanship?
cookoo ;Really :frustrate

How-bout this place >http://www.fleetsource.com/about_us.shtml
 
Last edited:

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,109
Reaction score
1,394
Location
Newberg,OR
I just talked to the pump shop I use today and they are leaning toward new, a tip cost the same as a new injector. So with labor you can be in them 40 to 50 apiece. Versus 34 bucks for new delphi. and they will reset them after some time free if you think there is a problem.
I wonder what quality the super cheap ones are. 120 a set seems way to low. That is way below distributor cost I was told.

I bet the remans from pensacola are just cleaned and tested, no new parts. That is awful cheap for new. I wonder if they are offshore copies? BTW cuban labor is cheap in Florida, I have some real horror stories about Miami.
 

mankypro

Learning Slowly...
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
Posts
1,730
Reaction score
1
Location
Boulder County, Colorado
Guess there are Cubans in Oregon too?

http://www.o-f-i.com/index.php?pid=16#INJECTORS_6.9L/7.3L_IDI_FORD_DIESEL

That said other than injectors, while I'm swapping them, should I do anything else? Like the lines?


I just talked to the pump shop I use today and they are leaning toward new, a tip cost the same as a new injector. So with labor you can be in them 40 to 50 apiece. Versus 34 bucks for new delphi. and they will reset them after some time free if you think there is a problem.
I wonder what quality the super cheap ones are. 120 a set seems way to low. That is way below distributor cost I was told.

I bet the remans from pensacola are just cleaned and tested, no new parts. That is awful cheap for new. I wonder if they are offshore copies? BTW cuban labor is cheap in Florida, I have some real horror stories about Miami.
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
I got told all that stuff too in order to justify the $40 I was being charged for my new delphis last year but there MUST be some cheap source of injector parts(springs, tips or whatever). I'd think just a serious cleaning might take eliminate the need for new tips, but the internal springs, shims, etc should be wear parts and could use replacement...thats how I see it.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,333
Posts
1,130,560
Members
24,137
Latest member
m2rtin
Top