What do you think of this trailer hitch setup?

[npe3484]

I just bought a 1988 F250 4x4 with the 7.3 IDI engine. This is the trailer hitch setup that it came with. It's looks half factory, half redneck engineered. Let me know if you think it would stand up to any sort of trailer pulling.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[towcat]

you're right. somebody made a off the shelf part work.
you have three weak links.
one- the bumper. you cannot exceed the rated pulling weight of the bumper.
two-the bolt on receiver. the sticker on the pass side will tell you it's max.
three-this is the most critical. the bolts holding the reciever adapter to the bumper. ideally, they should be frame bolts but at minimum they need to be grade 8.
you're safe for 3-5k trailers but anything bigger than that, I'd do a frame mounted receiver hitch.

 

[npe3484]

The only thing making me even consider using this for light duty pulling are the mounts that run from the bottom of the bumper, back to the frame. Somebody added those and they are welded them to the backside of the bumper. They extend back about 14" and then have 2 large bolts per side.

This is in addition to the stock bumper brackets.

A friend of mine needs his 2001 Dodge Dakota hauled later this week. The trip is only 20 miles with no speeds over 45 mph. The Dakota will be on a car hauling trailer from Uhaul.

Too unsafe?

 

[SHIP4BRAINS]

Toss it and spend $200 for a good hitch!

 

[towcat]

The only thing making me even consider using this for light duty pulling are the mounts that run from the bottom of the bumper, back to the frame. Somebody added those and they are welded them to the backside of the bumper. They extend back about 14" and then have 2 large bolts per side.

This is in addition to the stock bumper brackets.

A friend of mine needs his 2001 Dodge Dakota hauled later this week. The trip is only 20 miles with no speeds over 45 mph. The Dakota will be on a car hauling trailer from Uhaul.

Too unsafe?

if you must do it, make sure you have the safety chains attached to the bumper itself and not the adapter. if the bolts to the adapter fail, you still have control with the chains.
otoh, the electrical plug is a late 7pin unit, which meant the previous owner had more balls than brains. so we know it was overstressed previously, prolly why the whole things is bent downwards.

 

[93turbo_animal]

I doubt those 4 bolts holding it to the hitch ever give before the middle part of the bumper bends down. The problem with those bolts and the extra braces welded to the bumper is the bolts are to close together letting the forces twist more on the bolts then a straight downward pull. But like was said if you need to use it just watch the bumps so the trailer don't get to seasawing on the hitch but if the welds are all good I doubt you could ever pull the hitch off there in a straight pull

 

[npe3484]

Just to clarify, I wont be using the ball that is mounted to the bumper. I'm planning to use the hitch part that is below the bumper.

 

[towcat]

all my comments are in reference to that part.
don't forget the #1 rule.
you are only as strong as the weakest part in the system.

 

[Papabear]

I would only use that hitch set-up for around the farm or yard BUT i would never take that out on to a public street.

 

[jamsmith]

Why take a chance for an accident, or servere injury? Shop around for a second hand hitch.

 

[Ionus]

If you are going to get a uhaul car dolly why not just have them install a hitch for you while you are there, I called them the other day to price them and this is what she listed me over the phone without labor, the 10,000lb hitch is like 260$ the 5,000lb is 199$ and the 15,000lb class 5 is 365$

 

[argve]

I'm not a fan of them unless I'm only going to be doing light light duty pulling. I would be a little worried about tossing a vehicle back there, I bet you will find that the bumper will twist down with those types of forces that the car hauler and it's load will place upon it. Since you are only going 20 miles and going to be keeping the speeds low - avoid bumps best you can but don't go yanking it back and forth to go around them that adds stress as well. I would seriously plan on replacing it sometime here in future because your gonna need it... reason is if you haul something once you will be again. You can find used hitches in the bone yard and sometimes on craigslist you might keep your eyes open on them for a deal.

 

[Zrock]

you can tell the previous owner had tropubles with it already by the welds on each corner of the trailer hitch plate. Looks like he was trying to keep it from bending. Go to the junk yard and get a hitch for $50 and install it properly.

 

[snicklas]

I agree also, If it were my truck, I would remove both the hitch and the bumper and replace both. This bumper has been stressed and is probally not at safety specs and I would not trust that hitch at all. I get a good boneyard bumper, and you might be able to "upgrade" to a chrome one if there is a good one available, and I would pickup a good receiver style hitch and install it correctly. They are right, if you use it once, you will use it again. I "only" towed a small flatbed with a 1000lb garden tractor, then I bought a 5000lb camper, and have towed several vehicles on trailers for myself and friends, one of which was a Dodge Cummins on an equiptment trailer...... I would say replace the hitch at the very least, it would be worth the piece of mind.....

 

[jwalterus]

that is sold at Tractor Supply Company on the shelf, but it's on upside down

I bought one for the back of my camper for pulling a 16' aluminum boat behind it, the friggin bumper holds the black-water line, it's only $30 for that thing, and I just welded it on, it's made to be mounted on top and welded around the edge, it works well for my use