What are signs of algae?

[smolkin]

I've been having an absolute nightmare with my fuel system the past few weeks. It acts like it's either starved for fuel or sucking air, but I've replaced most of my lines except for the returns at the injectors. I just replaced the fuel pump last week, and the IP only has about 5000 mi on it. Lately it tries to stall when I come to a sudden stop even though I turned my idle up a bit. I've been running some biodiesel occasionally, but mostly it's been pump diesel since winter. I haven't even tried WVO yet this year.

Now I'm getting a thick, black layer of fluid that I drain off the separator several times a day. Is this just crap from a 27-yr-old tank, or is this what algae looks like? If it is algae, how do I kill it?

 

[gandalf]

I'm fighting an algae problem now too. It's a slow battle, at best. You must kill it first, then filter it out of the system. Then you keep killing it. I'm using a biocide called BioBor to kill it. I bought it at West Marine. Next I've got to hook up an external filter system and run all my fuel through that. Finally, understanding that problems like this probably never go away, I'll keep using BioBor for a long time.

Pictures of algae.

 

[hheynow]

First off it's not algae. Algae needs sunlight. What you have is a fuel fungi or bacterial growth. The absolutely best product is Killem. I've used it in my Mercedes with phenomenal results. Once it's dead the fungi stops clinging to surfaces and is brought forward to the fuel filter.

 

[Dirtleg]

How timely. I just noticed last night I am having this same issue with my tractor. I almost lost a month old lift pump as there is no prefilter before it in my system. Keep us posted as to how you correct it. I'll try and do the same.

 

[smolkin]

Well I drove the truck all day today, it was veeery scary, esp. with headlights, wipers, and A/C on, in the rain. It has a bad hesitation at takeoff and tries to stall whenever I stop (return to idle speed). But once I get going, it seems OK, so I think the crap is in my IP metering valve or something. I changed the fuel filter (only 3 months old) and dumped out the contents...and it was no where near as bad as gandalf's pics, but there definitely were red/black particles in the bottom (I don't have a pic, b/c it was raining on me as I did it).

I'm gonna try the local West Marine, I guess, and see what they have for fungicide. I really don't want to have to drop the rear tank, but if that's what it takes...

 

[hheynow]

You don't have to drop the tank but you will need patience. After dosing the tank it's best to let the vehicle sit for a few days so the biocide can do its killing. Then the slime/fungus will fall of all surfaces and become part of the fuel and be carried to the filter. The patience comes in because you will be continually changing the fuel filters because they now will clog much faster as the black/brown specks are now in the fuel. But once the filter stays clean (after monitoring) you can be assured that the tank is slime/fungus free. BTW, fungus and slime can only form if moisture (water) is present in the fuel. Get your fresh diesel from BUSY service stations or truck stops.

 

[smolkin]

Update: Got some BioBor and put it in the tank, it says to let it sit for 24-36 hrs. I'm gonna try some ATF in the filter tonight and see if it helps unstick whatever's sticking in the IP. I NEED this truck to run, it's my mobile toolbox/office, so if necessary I'll resort to something more drastic, like unhooking the fuel tanks and running off of a 5-gal boat tank.

The guys at Diesel Injection Service here tell me I need to drop the tanks and have them steam-cleaned. Seems to me if I'm removing tanks, I should be putting brand new ones on instead, and that way start with a clean slate. Anyone have recommendations for a source? Should I go OEM steel or try plastic, given my bio and WVO plans?

e: hheynow- that's good to know...didn't see your reply before I posted.
Yeah, I think I know which station got me infected. The problem I have here is that my fuel senders don't work, so I try to keep it full and keep track of mileage, but sometimes I get low far away from my preferred pumps and have to go to a smaller "neighborhood" station.

 

[hheynow]

Should I go OEM steel or try plastic, given my bio and WVO plans?

VO + heat + oxygen + steel = polymerization

Go with plastic!!! I can't tell you how many OBS PSD owners running VO in steel tanks develop poly, but I can name at least four off the top of my head.

 

[hheynow]

Anyone have recommendations for a source?

Check out this link describing the various stock fuel tanks for the '94-'97 OBS PSDs. Notice the last entry is for a REG CAB 4WD (F-250 & F-350) and it's plastic and the largest capacity of 22 gallons. That's what's on my truck. Every other front tank is steel and 19 gallons. So my recommendation is to go to a salvage yard and buy a front tank from a '96 or '97 REG CAB 4WD it will be plastic and 22 gallons. The hot fox in mine works flawlessly in plastic and I have no poly issues. I realize your truck is older than mine but hopefully this tank can be made to fit with minor adjustments. My $.02

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

>>> MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES <<<

It is a losing battle to fight a fungucide infestation with the factory-style fuel-filter alone.

None of the biocides are really very effective in a genuine infestation, as the bacteria that survives thrives exponentially on the dead carcasses, making the situation worse.

Steaming the tanks is about useless, except that doing thus also gets rid of a lot of non-bacterial crap that is also floating around in there.


What I have done that DOES WORK :

Install a GoldenRod sediment-bowl/pre-filter unit as the first line of defense.

Second in line, install a glass-bottom LUCAS water-separating sediment-bowl.

Third in line, install a New Zealand De-Bug magnetic fuel-filter; this kills the "algae" and keeps killing it forever.

Fourth in line, install a simple see-thru in-line filter just ahead of the lift-pump screen, catching anything that would otherwise lodge in the screen; this filter is a lot easier to access/replace/trouble-shoot than tearing into the lift-pump.

Fifth and last is the main fuel-filter in the factory location.


So far as keeping the engine running, without frequently clogging the main fuel-filter, the GoldenRod is the best line of defense, as anything of any size sufficient to affect running of the engine will settle out in the deep see-thru sediment-bowl and go no further; the expensive main fuel-filter lasts many many times longer with the GoldenRod doing all the dirty work.


The De-Bug magnetic "killer" unit prevents the acid-causing increase of "algae" production, thus preventing the subsequent internal rusting of the fuel system.


The water-separating LUCAS sediment-bowl is clear glass, thus I can actually see when it has caught any water; plus, it has a much deeper water holding capacity than that capable with the highly insufficient factory-style filter.


Since installing this barage of filtering devices, I have not had a single issue with "algae" infestation.

In twenty-five-plus year old tanks, often having to fuel in seedy-looking places, there is most likely still plenty of "algae" within the dark confines of my cavernous tanks; but, it scares me not, as I have full confidence in my fuel cleansing system.


Like someone has already stated, it is improper to call it "algae", as it cannot be "algae"; but, like the common un-educated mis-use of the term "point blank range", the name, although wrong, has stuck.




........................................



"Point blank range" is that spread of distance in a projectiles trajectory upon it's SECOND crossing of line of sight, when the projectile is no more than one-inch above, nor more than one-inch below, point of aim.

The flatter the trajectory, the longer this point blank range.

The term has nothing whatsoever to do with shooting something up close, regardless of how cool it may sound to un-educated ears in a hollywood cop flick.

Now you know.

 

[SparkandFire]

I've seen setups like Midnight Rider is describing on remote emergency backup generator installations.

The guy that worked for us who serviced the generators used to say there was no way to keep 500+ gallons of diesel from getting infected, you just lived with it. Most of the generators had at least 5 fuel filtering systems in line before the engine. I remember seeing Reverso polishing systems set up on those units, but holy crap those things are costly...

http://reversopumps.com/_catalog_93998/Fuel_Polishing_Systems

 

[smolkin]

I've been letting the truck sit all day today, I won't even try driving it until tomorrow (the 36-hr mark since treatment). I've been frantically trying to find a Goldenrod or equivalent this weekend so I can drive the truck Monday; the West Marine has a Racor separator with changeable filter media, but it says it's for gasoline systems. Will this work? Also, after reading some tech articles here, I realize that my current separator that I thought was aftermarket is actually OLDER THAN MY TRUCK! It's the original '83 design, and probably some PO got it off a junk truck...I wonder how many of my other problems could actually have been caused by it.

So, to get running by Monday: should I get the overpriced Racor, will it work on diesel too? Or...should I buy a spare Vormax off of a friend I know...better filter, but more expensive to replace elements (since it sounds like I'll be going through a few over the next couple of months)? I can't find a Goldenrod locally it seems.

 

[hheynow]

Or...should I buy a spare Vormax off of a friend I know...better filter, but more expensive to replace elements (since it sounds like I'll be going through a few over the next couple of months)?

Dude that's what I have on my VO side. If you get it for a decent price you will be the proud owner of the best (coolant heated) filter head on the market. The first bowl spins out the debris. Then the Racor R90T filter (10 micron) has a water drain. You are a lucky guy if you put that on your diesel side.

 

[smolkin]

OK then, I'll pick up the Vormax tomorrow for $100, just talked to him. It's brand new, still in the box...he says they used to go for $400. That's not bad, since the Racor was $95 from West. Is a Vormax durable enough to mount on the frame rail under the cab, where my current sep is, or should I move it into the engine compartment? If I did that, I could maybe put a bypass valve on the coolant hoses and run it post-selector valve...but I think for now I'll just hook up the fuel to it. I'll get a clear inline filter to go pre-Vormax, too, so then I'd have 3 filters + seperator. Will that be enough?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

GoldenRod filter units are available in every Tractor Supply TSC store, or whatever equivalent chain agricultural supply that is prevalent in your area.

ACE hardware has them.

Southern States.

Northern Tool.

Just about any concern that sells fuel handling and storage equipment will have them.

The beauty of a GoldenRod is how it does everything so well, simple and easy, without costing a fortune to service.

The clear see-thru bowl can be drained via a pet-****, removed, rinsed, and replaced, without disturbing the replaceable filter cartridge.

Any particles that adhere to the filter pleats soon gets washed loose to settle to the bottom of the bowl, hence the filter-cartridge lasts a very long time.


The factory style "canister" type filters are very confined and quickly clogged by intentional design of the filter manufacturer.

They WANT you to have to replace these expensive units VERY OFTEN; that is what keeps their wives in fancy big cars and lipstick.

Look at old engines, especially tractors and such, and even on the simplest ones there will ALWAYS be a glass sediment-bowl that can be rinsed clean without spending nary a dime.


The commonly used disposable canister filters have no sediment capacity whatsoever, and absolutely no way to dump trapped sediment without replacing the entire filter and throwing the old one in an already over-taxed land-fill.