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Water in oil

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Frankenwintch, Oct 17, 2020.

  1. Frankenwintch

    Frankenwintch Registered User

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    So a buddy of mine bought a 90 f250 and we torn it all the way down and put it back together with new gaskets and oil cooler etc. The problem we r having is it runs great but some how water keeps getting into the oil and we have no idea how its getting in there. We have it taken apart half way now to check the water ports on the intake and that doesn't seem to be the problem. Like I said everything is new except for the piston rings they were brand new when we opened the block the first time. Any advice would help thanks guys.
     
  2. Philip1

    Philip1 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    It might be either a oil cooler leaking, blown head gasket or cavitation in one of the cylinders.
     
  3. yARIC008

    yARIC008 Drives really slow

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    Pull the bottom end off and put the heads on and fill the cooling system with water and pressurize. If it's cavitation you'll see it squirting through the cylinder wall.
     
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  4. Frankenwintch

    Frankenwintch Registered User

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    Well we thought the oil cooler was the problem to even though the one we put on was good still changed it with a brand new one from summit and it already has new gaskets as well. We did pull the freeze plugs they blocked off so it had the same water flow as the 6.9 so not sure if it's that. When we pulled the original oil cooler it was clogged with calcium all the way through almost I'm thinking more on the cavitation side then anything. I just wanted confirmation on my suspension
     
  5. yARIC008

    yARIC008 Drives really slow

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    https://www.oilburners.net/articles/cavitationartic.html#real
     
  6. Frankenwintch

    Frankenwintch Registered User

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    Thank u for the link it's very helpful I will they that once the motor is out again.
     
  7. frankenwrench

    frankenwrench overkill is under rated!

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    I noticed when either of the rear cylinders are up at tdc I can hear it start dripping into the oil pan as well as the second to rear cylinder on the driver side. Whenever they are down and I leave it a while I can't hear it anymore but it sprays like hell out the gp hole as it comes back up. And it don't take a few hours, literally a few minutes.
     
  8. yARIC008

    yARIC008 Drives really slow

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    The two rear cylinders are typically the ones that cavitate. Sounds like you need some sleeves installed.
     
  9. frankenwrench

    frankenwrench overkill is under rated!

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    :puke:
    How much does it usually run? And if I'm doing any of them I'm doing them all. Anyone from texas that knows how much a hole?
     
  10. riphip

    riphip Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Or just another block that is not cavitated. Either way you will be rebuilding
     
  11. engineertppllc

    engineertppllc Registered User

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    I paid a shop to bore and sleeve all eight cylinders, and assembled the engine myself, with new stock dimension pistons. Machine work and parts cost $1,800. I diagnosed by putting shop air into the glow plug holes one at a time, and observing the open radiator. Only one cylinder leaked. Number one. I had seen white smoke as was pointed out. The job went well. The engine and truck are perfect now. I love my Ford! I enjoy reading the Forum. You folks are very smart, and very kind to one another. Real gentlemen! Blue skies. engineertppllc
     
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  12. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    I know that I'm speaking for most of us when I say "Thanks. We try hard to be this way". We love our Fords too.
     
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  13. Frankenwintch

    Frankenwintch Registered User

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    Thanks to all of yall for confirming my subscription we now have a 7.3 and two 6.9 tore all the way down to pick the best out of the bunch to rebuild. On another note frankenwrenchs old truck just went down so now we have two projects at once wish us luck.
     

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