V Belt Picture

[ZWilson07]

Does anyone have the picture setup for the v belts on trucks without AC?

I need to replace mine but they just seemed to all break so im not really sure where to start and how to necessarily go about it all and to achieve proper tension on everything.

Ive never worked on a v belt setup so this is all new for me.

Thanks

 

[towcat]

it's the same as a AC equipped truck. the only difference is the PS pulley has a double groove "if" you want to run a matched pair belt setup.

 

[franklin2]

Be very careful on these trucks. The belts are so long and the components are so far away from the middle pulleys on the engine, it's easy to get the belts mixed up, and have for instance the power steering pump being driven off the wrong groove on the waterpump. And it will actually run this way, ask me how I know. The only way to tell is sight down the belt and discover it's off 1 groove.

 

[ZWilson07]

I see there is a few ways to run it.

Obviously with AC compressor or without.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Mine only seems to be ran with 3 belts and is ran differently than pictures ive seen.


1st farthest out towards to the rad is PS, WP, and CS.

2nd middle is VP, WP, CS

3rd or closest to the engine is broken and gone, but I assume it was running ALT, WP, CS.

Does any of this sound correct or what would be the best way to run it?

Also what would be the best way to make sure I get the correect belts for running certain ways?

Lastly, it looks like the belts just slip over each pulley going from most inwards and out to the rad, except for the PS pulley and mechanical fan. How do you get the belts all on this pulley? Does the shroad and fan have to be pulled just to change the belts??

Thanks

 

[franklin2]

On mine, the one closest to the engine runs the alternator.

Next going away from the engine is the power steering.

Furthest from the engine is the A/C compressor.

Of course they all go around the waterpump and crankshaft except the vacuum pump. I have a little short belt going from the alternator to the vacuum pump.

If I wanted to not drive the A/C anymore, I just have to take the 1st belt closest to the fan off, and that's it. That's what I like about my setup, lots of redundancy for the waterpump, and after that each belt has it's own specific accessory it's responsible to drive.

 

[ZWilson07]

Hmm mine seems to be ran differently than all of the ones ive seen pictures of.

Any how to or info how to go about the whole thing? I tried searching but I can hardly find anything on the couple sites.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Mine only seems to be ran with 3 belts and is ran differently than pictures ive seen.


1st farthest out towards to the rad is PS, WP, and CS.

2nd middle is VP, WP, CS

3rd or closest to the engine is broken and gone, but I assume it was running ALT, WP, CS.

Does any of this sound correct or what would be the best way to run it?

Also what would be the best way to make sure I get the correect belts for running certain ways?

Lastly, it looks like the belts just slip over each pulley going from most inwards and out to the rad, except for the PS pulley and mechanical fan. How do you get the belts all on this pulley? Does the shroad and fan have to be pulled just to change the belts??

Thanks

Your rearmost belt is indeed crank - water pump - alt. What you describe is actually the same thing the first pic you posted shows, just the pic is a bit blurry. You should also have a 2-groove PS pulley, which gives you the option of copying the A/C setup but w/ replacing the A/C belt w/ a 2nd PS belt. If you switch to hydroboost brakes, having 2 PS belts is a good idea.

In case of factory A/C trucks, there is generally only one way to run the belts, unless by some off chance the PS pump is of the non-A/C 2-groove variety - then one can have the belt setup shown in pic #1, and run the A/C off the PS pump w/ a short belt. The only advantage of that non-factory setup is it grips the water pump pulley better, which may be useful if one has a heavy right foot and at the same time do lots of stop-and-go driving... But simply leaving the A/C belt off and running on just 2 belts around the water pump will likely cause belt slip when the fan clutch locks and there is high humidity in the air.

As for installing the belts, they will all have to be sneaked in around the fan blade, you do so by squeezing the belt between the fan and its shroud and then rotate the fan by hand and pull the belt over each blade till the belt is behind the fan and hanging around the fan clutch shaft. What sucks is that to replace the alt belt all the other ones have to come off, you don't have to remove them entirely but you will have to pull them forward enough to where you can fish the alt belt thru them to its location all the way in the back.

 

[ZWilson07]

Your rearmost belt is indeed crank - water pump - alt. What you describe is actually the same thing the first pic you posted shows, just the pic is a bit blurry. You should also have a 2-groove PS pulley, which gives you the option of copying the A/C setup but w/ replacing the A/C belt w/ a 2nd PS belt. If you switch to hydroboost brakes, having 2 PS belts is a good idea.

In case of factory A/C trucks, there is generally only one way to run the belts, unless by some off chance the PS pump is of the non-A/C 2-groove variety - then one can have the belt setup shown in pic #1, and run the A/C off the PS pump w/ a short belt. The only advantage of that non-factory setup is it grips the water pump pulley better, which may be useful if one has a heavy right foot and at the same time do lots of stop-and-go driving... But simply leaving the A/C belt off and running on just 2 belts around the water pump will likely cause belt slip when the fan clutch locks and there is high humidity in the air.

As for installing the belts, they will all have to be sneaked in around the fan blade, you do so by squeezing the belt between the fan and its shroud and then rotate the fan by hand and pull the belt over each blade till the belt is behind the fan and hanging around the fan clutch shaft. What sucks is that to replace the alt belt all the other ones have to come off, you don't have to remove them entirely but you will have to pull them forward enough to where you can fish the alt belt thru them to its location all the way in the back.

appreciate the help.

On a side note which pulleys do you loosen up and how do you go about doing them to get the front most 2 belts off?

Obviously I know the crank and waterpump dont move, and the alternator is easy enough to move around, is the PS the only pulley that needs to be moved one way to get the belts off? I assume it just has a nut that is loosened or something?

Sorry for the newb questions, this is just the first time ive worked on this setup so its all new to me; plus with it being in the single digits here in KY tonight, being in the garage working on the truck is def a difficult thing to do. So just trying to get all my ducks in a row before attempting it.

I tried messing around with it earlier and assumed the belts had to go over each blade but I cant seem to work with winter gloves on so after taking them off and touching and holding lights around the engine; I didn't last but a few minutes before I was like ok im done lol.

 

[madpogue]

The steering pump is the only thing that _can_ be moved to remove the parallel belts.

One thing I learned recently about belts that run in parallel is that they should be carefully measured with a belt measuring tool the FLAPS is supposed to have. Yeah, you may get two that are _marked_ the same length, but there are enough variations in manufacturing that the counterman is supposed to find two belts that are as close as possible to one another in length. Minor variation between the two belts will cause one to run always loose, or one to run always too tight. That's how one can break and not the other.

 

[ZWilson07]

The problem im still having is just the way the truck are ran with the back most belt that runs from ALT, WP, and CS.

Its ran the same regardless if its an AC or NON AC truck, and what im specifically talking about is theleft most side of the picture. The long stretch is has from the ALT down to the CS; no matter how tight I get it, it still wobbles around and smacks one of the bolts no matter how much tension I get on it.

I try my best to get the ALT to tighten up as much as possible with a pry bar but still no luck. Any ideas?

 

[whiteboyslo]

don't know if this helps, but i happened to stumble across this pic the other day:

http://bankspower.com/products/show/155/39

Mike

 

[icanfixall]

Thats for the great pic from Banks. Not much you can do about the alt belt bounching. Some do this more than others. Some members have installed an idler pulley on the side that bounches and others have run a shorter belt for the alt. The short belt fits just the alt and the water pump pulley. It does not fit the crank pulley. It will reduce the belt flap. Sorry I don't have the belt number.

 

[1466IH]

When i tighten my alt I use a big adjustable wrench on the ear where the top bolt is. You can get it much tighter that way and i have almost no belt bouncing

 

[madpogue]

The problem im still having is just the way the truck are ran with the back most belt that runs from ALT, WP, and CS.

Its ran the same regardless if its an AC or NON AC truck, and what im specifically talking about is theleft most side of the picture. The long stretch is has from the ALT down to the CS; no matter how tight I get it, it still wobbles around and smacks one of the bolts no matter how much tension I get on it.

I try my best to get the ALT to tighten up as much as possible with a pry bar but still no luck. Any ideas?

Are you first relieving the tension on the vacuum pump belt? If not, do that first, so you're not "fighting" that belt while tightening the alt belt. Then go back and tighten the vac pump belt separately.

You may have to have an assistant tightening down the slider bolt on the alt as you hold the crowbar maintaining the tension on the belt. Using brute strength to hold that tension and simultaneously tightening a bolt can be tricky.

 

[ZWilson07]

Are you first relieving the tension on the vacuum pump belt? If not, do that first, so you're not "fighting" that belt while tightening the alt belt. Then go back and tighten the vac pump belt separately.

You may have to have an assistant tightening down the slider bolt on the alt as you hold the crowbar maintaining the tension on the belt. Using brute strength to hold that tension and simultaneously tightening a bolt can be tricky.

Yes this is with only this single belt on as mine broke so I had to take the others off to get to it.

Thanks for the tips and tricks. Ill try and figure something out. Just dont want this new belt to destroy itself like the other one did within 5,000 miles.

I didnt put it on, it was like that when I got it, but was new.