Using a 6.0L PSD Fuel Pump...

[Silver91Hatch]

Ok guys, I am debating the electric fuel pump idea for my rollback. Can someone give the me the Pro's and Con's of say a 6.0L PSD HFCM on the IDI? I am a Ford Tech and I have replaced a couple of these pump's over time for lack of pressure (between 30-40 psi) and I was wondering what the issues would be with running one of these pumps on the IDI.

The Pro's I see are.

Fuel water separator - Currently mine was disconnected by the PO, just found that out this weekend.

Electric pump - No brainer there

Filters - The Motorcraft PSD filter is a very good design with the water-phobic membrane around it, etc Readily available (6.0L's are EVERYWHERE)

Reliability - I have only seen 3-4 of these pumps actually fail and when they do its a loss of pressure, around 30-40 psi and not a just dies issue.

Mounting - They are factory chassis mounted pumps that sit inside the frame rail and I think I have a very good location for one on my F-series chassis.

Also the Econolines have a different pump that mounts the filter vertical and uses the lower half as a FWS, but I like the F series pump better.

The Cons I see

Cost - They are not cheap units. I get a discount working for the dealership but its still not a cheap endevor

Filter Cost - You are required to buy the filters in pairs and I would never use the upper filter. Around $100 for a set of filters.

 

[bghnkinf350]

You would also need to drop the pressure to 4 to 6 psi, what is the wiring like for those?

 

[Silver91Hatch]

Well the FPR is in the secondary fuel filter housing so I don't know what kinda pressure it would make without one.

Wiring is very simple. 2 wire for the pump and 2 wire for the WIF light. Power and ground turn the pump on. For the WIF light I think its just a ground from one side to the sensor, from the sensor to the WIF light. Then when water hits it, it will flow ground across the terminals and turn the light on, but I could be tottally wrong about the WIF part.

 

[bghnkinf350]

I think for the price and work, you might just be better gatting a carrier pump or stick with the mechanical if you are looking for dependability.

 

[Silver91Hatch]

BTW for those not savoy on the 6.0L stuff this is what the HFCM looks like. It houses the fuel pump, fuel water separator, WIF light sensor and fuel filter.

http://www.commonwealthdiesel.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=191

 

[Silver91Hatch]

Well like I said before the 6.0L pump is dependable at 55+ psi. When I see them actually fail they are in the low 40 psi, high 30 psi range, not good for a 6.0L.

I mainly want it for the water separator, WIF light sensor and primary fuel filter since my water separator was deleted by the PO many moons ago.

 

[bghnkinf350]

Can you just put the 7.3 filter head on there and wire in the WIF light, that way you can use the 7.3 idi pumps with integral water separator?

 

[Silver91Hatch]

The issues I have with the 7.3L fuel header is the fuel heater. I have seen many fuel heater leaks, hard to start, etc come from the 7.3L header. At the same time the 7.3L header is oboslete through Ford and the only way I can get one is used. Also I am seeing a lot of people using electric pumps. I have always been one to think outside of the box. I really don't care if its $20 more or $100 more than a Jegs or Holley pump at this point. I am just looking at solving 3-4 different problems at one time.

 

[bghnkinf350]

Well, put that way, I guess give it a shot, but you will still need a regulator.

 

[Silver91Hatch]

I wonder what kinda pressure they make with no regulator...??? The factory uses a regulator to make 55+ psi, but free flowing I doubt they will make that. From my eyes, it looks like the fuel pressure goes from the pump to the filter, to the IP. But the return lines Tee into the line at the filter, so does fuel pressure go that way too? I know a lot of people cap that off but I haven't had any issues starting yet.

Anyone else tried a 6.0L pump??
Any other ideas?

 

[itsacrazyasian]

I;ve changed two of those buggers. They are fairly stout and the two i changed were only because the guys were trying to be cheap and run wvo or wmo with out the proper setups.

I run a racor on the frame, heated, with a WIF sensor and a pressure gauge on it. Running a 2 micron element on it. Elements are about 15-20 a piece depending on where i buy them from. I think i got the unit for about 180.

I just ordered a replacement poly bowl for my facet fuel pump that i knocked off the truck yesterday. personally i think this is a better venture for you, since you don't need to run a regulator, you don't need to worry about over pressurization and the elements are less expensive than the 6.0 filter. The clear bowl on the bottom of the racor is nice to observe for water buildup.

the internal regulator on them limits pressure to 55+psi. That thing will shoot fuel clear across the parking lot of my shop. I've done it before!

edit: on the truck i shot fuel across the parking lot. Truck was towed in, customer was arguing with me that his no start was a fuel pump. I told hi to go pound sand and take it elseware if he's gonna tell me what to do. So i unhooked the line on the top filter element and keyed on and shot fuel across the windshield and about 4 other cars.

Charged the guy to take the ficm apart and resolder it. Jackwagon.

 

[Exekiel69]

If You want electric save to money and spend it on a carrier or a carter pump I have both and they work just fine with out the regulator.

 

[Diesel_brad]

how about just using a superduty 7.3 electric fuel pump and put in a regulator

 

[87crewdually]

I run a racor on the frame, heated, with a WIF sensor and a pressure gauge on it. Running a 2 micron element on it. Elements are about 15-20 a piece depending on where i buy them from. I think i got the unit for about 180.

...Personally i think this is a better venture for you, since you don't need to run a regulator, you don't need to worry about over pressurization and the elements are less expensive than the 6.0 filter. The clear bowl on the bottom of the racor is nice to observe for water buildup.

Solid good info and saved me some typing.

 

[snicklas]

I think it would work just fine with a regulator. I know the fuel pressure at the injectors on a 6.0 is close to 70 psi. Not sure how it is regulated. I am sure it is up at the engine, maybe at the Secondary Filter. The Filter in the HFCM is a 10 micron filter with the water block. The one on top of the engine is a 4 micron filter in the Secondary Housing. Filters can be had for the set of Motorcraft, Primary, Secondary and 2 new O-Rings for $45 at Advance Auto Parts, that is where I get mine.

I know the HFCM Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module on the frame rail for F-Series and Excursions house:

Electric Lift Pump
Primary 10 micron fuel filter
Water Separator
Water In Fuel Light
and in the early models a Fuel Heater (Eliminated on the later and replacement units)

They are quiet. Seem to be reliable. The only draw back it they are kinda messy to replace the filters, but if you drain the filter housing with the water drain first, it is not to bad. I think the HFCM contains at least 1 pint of fuel, maybe more.

I would think that in an IDI they would last a long time, and you would have fuel pressure/volume to spare if you step up to a hot pump. I know there have been reports the Holly's can not keep up with a Moose pump......

If you have one laying around, I would say go for it..... You could eliminate everything between the HFCM and the IP on an IDI, or for more protection, maybe you could use the HFCM, lines and the Secondary Filter housing and have 4 micron filtration to the IP....