Upgrade Alternator

sle2115

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I want to install a higher output alternator on my truck. If I run the headlights, blower, etc. at night, my voltage starts dropping off. I'm sure part of it is just worn out charging system, but rather than just replace it, I want to upgrade in the process.

Someone tell me how! :)

I know MrRoboto wrote up how on the older trucks, but mine is an 87, no external regulator. Is there a plug and play alternator that will give me better output, or should I go the route of the 3G?
 

Mat J

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I dont know about on the 6.9/7.3s but I just did a 3g upgrade with the 130a on my other truck with a 460 and it was really easy, After I make a trip to the junk yard the next week or two I will be doing the swap on my 7.3.
 

typ4

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87 should have an external reg. I built a 100 amp 1G for mine with a upgrade bolted instead of soldered stator to rectifier connection, solved all my problems. The solder connection loosens due to vibration and heat and you lose 1/3 of the output, works fine till the lights and heater are on then the voltmeter slowly drops.
 

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Optikalillushun

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87 should have an external reg. I built a 100 amp 1G for mine with a upgrade bolted instead of soldered stator to rectifier connection, solved all my problems. The solder connection loosens due to vibration and heat and you lose 1/3 of the output, works fine till the lights and heater are on then the voltmeter slowly drops.

thats pretty neat. i was also gunna say my 88 has an external reg 1G.

i did the 3G swap on my 93 F-150 (had a lowly 2G) and its like night n day difference.
 

sle2115

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Mine does not have the large stud that appears to be on all the 1G pictures I look at. It has the two plugs, I think both are three wire, I know when I sold parts, we sold a bunch of the plugs that the amperage comes through as they melted. Anyway, I'm sure I can figure out the wiring for a 3G, just want to make sure the mechanical bolt on part is a fit. I don't have time to be making up brackets, etc. Also not real crazy about shimming the pulley, but I will I guess.
 

typ4

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You have a 2G, they caused lots of van fires. The high current plug burns the harness then it goes **** from there. I honestly didnt know they used them in 87 diesel's.
And I thought i knew everything:dunno
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I believe someone "up-graded" your alternator to a 2G; it should have came factory-original with the 1G.


I have been meaning to do the 3G upgrade myself; why, I don't really know, unless it is just because I like doing anything electrical.

My old 1G, of whatever amperage Ford used on a 1985 Diesel, has always carried the multitude of markers on both truck and trailer, the A/C on MAX, wipers on HIGH, headlights, fog-lights, driving-lights, spots, etc. ALL on at the same time, for miles and miles, with nary a stumble, and never a dimming of the lights, so I really don't know if I would even notice any improvement with a 3G.:dunno
 

sootman73

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i wonder how hard it would be to find brackets to mount a ambulance alternator on my truck. the alternator in this ambulance we got is huge! i'm talking like 10 in diameter! dont know much more than that about it though. i'll take pics today and post em. i'll see if i can find a tag on it. too bad its on a psd or else i would probably be putting it on my truck.
 

Mat J

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I think the ambulance one is 165 amp, thats what it said in one of those hynes manuals or something. If you want a high output alt. db electrical sells them I think 200 amp.
 

typ4

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the problem with the ambulance alt is you will not find one on the road. You can ask how I know this but I am not tellin.

I think some no option trucks came wth a 2g but I also thought all were large case 1G. I do know the 2g is a POS.
 

sle2115

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I found 3G's at 200 amps, not super expensive either! Anyway, if this was upgraded, they did a hell of a job, the wires are interlaced with factory wiring, etc. I can post a pic if anyone would like. At this point, I'd be happy to know what the heck I've got! It has a regulator on the back of the alternator, but not a fender well mounted one.

The two heavy wires coming out of it come over and tie to a fusible link, then one wire out to the hot side of the starter solenoid. The fusible link is NOT cobbled in, it's all solid wire from the plug on the alternator to the fusible link to the solenoid. Like I said, if it's aftermarket, I need to know who did it, cause they did a OEM job. Fusible link even has ford part number on it. And, it wouldn't be the same person who cobbled everything else I've fixed, they half-assed everything!
 

sle2115

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