universal injectors instead of BB ???

[Boston]

OK so I just received a set of Delphi injectors for my 91 7.3 from "The Diesel Store" and they didn't specify the BB designation on the package anywhere, so I called them. They said the difference in specs was so minor that they now just make a universal injector.

Should I return them and go looking for a set of BB or is this the right part. I'm going to be running mostly WMO through this thing and I'm still pretty new at using that particular fuel. Anyone used these universal injectors before and how do they compare to the specific ones

thanks guys
B

 

[icanfixall]

I have never heard of the diesel store. Who and where are they. Are these rebuilt injectors. I really feel someone is selling you what they had on the shelf and in all my years with these trucks I have never been told anything about a "universal injector". At this point I'm very suspect of the seller telling you this piece of information. Every injector I have personally worked with has a letter stamped in the wrench hex as to what it is. Look at the wrench hex for these letter.

 

[subway]

could they mean that they are all "BB" code and that is what they use for everything? the sales guy just summed it up as universal?

i have heard that they dont really make any of the other code injectors anymore since there is really no reason to when the "BB" codes work well in any IDI engine.

 

[Agnem]

I'd be inclined to believe they are BB, and that their marketing approach is just to call them "universal" to eliminate confusion on the part of uneducated buyers.

 

[Boston]

ok I checked the hex and they all say BB on them, they are in boxes marked Delphi automotive systems Troy Michigan and dated 1999. The boxes are a little rough but the injectors themselves look new, I'll still call them back tomorrow and confirm that these are new injectors

thanks guys

I'm doing a lot to this truck and I just want to get it right

new IP and injectors
headers and 4" duel pipes
new intake system
new steering
new suspension
new interior
new paint
new chrome

so I don't want to screw anything up

oh and it's going to be carrying that big fuel tank I showed over on that other thread

so I really appreciate the help

thanks again
B

almost got all my parts together so ya
just wanta make sure I have the right stuff

oh
TheDieselStore.com is who I got them from


the item I don't have yet is the 4" exhaust system, Kens mufflers wants about 1k to run from the 3" colectors in 4" an H crossover and duel pipes. haven't decided on stacks or not yet but I though it might be smart not to run pipes underneath the big tank. So the pipes might come up the side, not sure how much I like that look but its either that or a heat shield over the pipes if they go under the tank. Something but I don't want a chance of fire should I spring a leak.

 

[Diesel JD]

2 things....you have to be very very sure you filter that WMO very well. Your chances of success are much better the more you can heat the oil and the more the truck is worked vs. being used as a DD. Also, if you can have it done without spending a fortune, pop testing those injectors before they go in isn't a bad idea, especially with a build date in 1999. It makes me feel old to think of how many years ago that was.

 

[typ4]

The 1999 is the copyright on the logo, every new box has that on it.

If you look there is a little "c" in a circle ahead o fthe date.
Never seen a build date except on the pintle housing.

 

[Boston]

well I've got a pretty low pressure high volume filter set up, I think the name f the thread is "the big bad oil filter" but I'd have to look it up. I"m working on how to heat it but it goes through two 20 micron filters then two 10 micron filters and then two 1 micron filters and then into a water separator. Not sure if thats good enough but it sure seemed to work at least for a little while till I decided to rip into the truck and rebuild it. IP was going out long before I started running WMO.

speaking of which I"v now got two injector pumps, the rebuilt one and the old one. how hard is it to throw a rebuild kit at one of these things. I've rebuilt my share of carbs but never an IP.

and will cold oil filter if allowed to do so slowly enough

 

[Diesel JD]

Few people here would advise cracking open an injector pump. I have an electronic version of the shop manual you can have. I've never done it. Mel and a couple other guys tore one down and put it back together at a rally a few years back, but no one was brave enough to try it on their truck. In the GM 6.2/6.5 community and with the 5.7s and 4.3s it is pretty common for someone to tear into a pump to a point. I think it depends on how beat the pump is. If it's just leaking and needs a few new parts it probably is user serviceable...margin for error is low though. There is always a chance that you could kill an IP or an engine could runaway if youmake a severe enough mistake. It wouldn't take much dirt to ruin an IP. That having been said, you're welcome to my manual and if you can afford to lose that pump, by all means do it. Just verify that it's right or at least that you have a 2nd way to quickly shut off your engine in case it tries to run away when you fire it up. Usually a hard bound book or clean clipboard would fill this bill well enough. You just clap it over the intake horn or turbo intake if the engine tries to take off in an uncontrolled manner.

 

[Boston]

sure I'd be curious to look into how those things are put together. If its possible to DIY it I'd give it a try.

anyway thanks guys I think I've figured it out and Agnem, Red and Fixall pretty much nailed it

cheers
B