Turned Down Fuel

[icanfixall]

Today I opened up the Moose pump and turned down one flat. I didn't have to rotate the motor at all. Everything was found in alignment for the allen wrench. When I restarted the motor it ran without running out of fuel like it has every other time. The only thing differant this time is I didn't have to turn the motor for the allen screw to show up in the mirror.... Go figure... I was pleasntly surprised too. Sure runs fine and the sound the motor makes is music to my ears... It must be the Moose pump....

 

[tractorman86]

so, you going to turn it back up when you get the aluminum rad?

 

[icanfixall]

About turning things back up...... I tow heavy and usually very fast just to keep up with traffic on I-40 or I-15. The way I have build my motor is to get the most out of it towing with a set of 3.55 gears. I know a set of 4.10's are a much better gear but.... When I'm at 70 mph I see about 1900 rpm and around 600 degrees on the pyro with my stock pump. This Moose pump will be around half throttle but upwards of 900 degrees on the pyro for the same speed. The coolant will be off the gage. So, the aluminum radiator will change things. As I find what I can use and get away with things will be turned up to what I can handle...SAFELY. I read all the directions about the Moose pump and I really should install my new Hypermax intercooler. I really want my coolant issues under coltrol first. Then I'll intercool it. I need baselines first so I know whats going on. The Moose pump when I installed it had almost an unlimited amount of boost available to me. I saw 14 lbs easily most of the time. Now I really need to stand on it for a while and it reaches 11 easy just getting on a freeway at 2500 rpm. Its really a neat pump. Anybody that can swing the deal should try one. Mine cost me less than $600.00. Yours may be more or it may be less. But just do it. You will never be without another one. I'm thinking about buying another one just for a spare to go behind the rear seat and just maybe an extra set of the infamous but yet to be on the truck.. The Moose injecters. I really like spare parts behind the rear seat...

 

[69dieselfreak]

I was planning on getting a moose pump but i got to get a water pump upper and lower hoses and a thermostat all origional so some of my savings is going twards that it sucks but its got to be done would u suggest new head gaskets and studs before a moose pump

 

[Diesel JD]

Are the head gaskets original? If yes, you probably are going to need them. remember stock 6.9 bolts might give out at anything much over 11-12 psi. Some would say a hot pump will definitely make you blow head gaskets unless you have studs. I think you'd be fine if you keep the gas pedal under control, no more than 1000-1100 on the pyro and no more than 10-12 psi boost, but then you're leaving a lot of what these pumps can do on the table.

 

[RedTruck]

If Gary ever decides to part out his rig...I've got dibs on his rear seat and what's all behind it.



Paul

 

[92F350CC]

I call dibs on the motor. It takes one tough piece of iron to withstand his luck.

 

[69dieselfreak]

Are the head gaskets original? If yes, you probably are going to need them. remember stock 6.9 bolts might give out at anything much over 11-12 psi. Some would say a hot pump will definitely make you blow head gaskets unless you have studs. I think you'd be fine if you keep the gas pedal under control, no more than 1000-1100 on the pyro and no more than 10-12 psi boost, but then you're leaving a lot of what these pumps can do on the table.

they are original and can i do head studs in the truck just worried about the passenger side head because of the a/c stuff
what is the best gasket set out there
thanks guys

 

[h2odrx]

It can be done in the truck but it ain't fun

I thought i had a pic of it some where?

 

[icanfixall]

Felpro is what most will use. Pull the motor. Its the only real way of doing this job correctly and easily.;p They are about 10 thousands thicker than original head gaskets. Some state that only Navistar will work for them. Others use Victor Rienz without a problem. I feel the extra material on the Felpro help out more than the stock gaskets so thats what I use. The Felpro head gasket thickness is around 76 thousands thick. I ran my original motor for either 276 or 376 thousand miles with an original head gasket on the passenger side. It never did leak. That motor was pulled and number 8 cylinder was sleeved. At that time I told the shop doing the work to replace both head gaskets but they felt it wasn't needed so they didn't do what I asked for. Come to find out why they did that.. They were hoping for more labor charges when it finally did let go... Sucks to be them... All they get to do on my truck now is time it.... And even that is something I'm working on taking away from them...

 

[69dieselfreak]

thanks guys

 

[69dieselfreak]

at that point im just going to rebuild the engine to turbo spec and do it rite

 

[icanfixall]

Today I test ran the truck on the freeway after the last turn down of the pump. I finally went too far down. After feeling the power of the Moose pump I'm now just able to pull onto the freeway and merge into traffic. Pyro temps wont even reach 650 on a full throttle pull. I still get 10 lbs of boost.. So my plan is to correct by turning it back up half the amount I just turned it down. That will be about 1/2 of a flat on the allen wrench.... Touchy little thing isn't it.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I just turned mine down a bit too, it wouldn't smoke under normal driving conditions, but it was way too easy to get it to overfuel, and if I was a bit harder on the throttle with the engine fairly cold I was getting soot all over my right side of the truck (single stack exhaust) - I had it turned up 60 degrees before, so I backed it down about 30 degrees, now when I stab the throttle off idle it does blow a bit of black, but not as much as before, and I don't see much soot flying out the stack either... Freeway test is coming up Tuesday morning when I head home after the 4-day weekend.