tjcsr
Registered User
Below is a picture of my manual GP set up. Is this correct?
All of the wires are factory except the one that says "cab switch" this is the one going inside. It is 12v with a inline fuse.
Her is my issue.
I bought the truck and 6 days later the WTS light stayed on for 3 days, Me not knowing *** this meant i did nothing until I got home and started reading. I came up with a thought that it was a bad relay.It had welded itself together inside. I then decided to replace the relay and hook up the manual switch, Not having $ to drop on GP's I never used the switch because i knew also that I had fried the GP's. always plugged it in to start or used go juice.. now I know not to use ether so i dont.
I finally had $ to drop on GP's so i went and picked up 8 beru's. Tossed them in, hopped in the cab and dammit, the relay stayed closed. I couldnt get out fast enough to unhook the 12v power so those GP's are cooked.
Pissed i started testing the relay. Using a jumper wire I manually engaged the cab switch from under hood. the 1st 20 times it would stick closed. So i took out the relay and bought another. when I got back home I decided to check the bad relay one more time. To my surprise its working 100%. I hooked up the cab switch and again 100% working. Same with everything hooked up, even dead GP's.
Im afraid to drop 8 new berus in and see if I can blow $100 in 30 seconds again.
BTW GP controller isnt plugged in anymore.
Could the good gp's be drawing too much and not allowing the relay to open back up?
Is there a difference between a starter relay and a gp relay? I thought i read somewhere that a starter relay was grounded by the housing and the gp was by the wire. Would this happen if they sold me a starter relay instead of a gp one?
This is for a 84 6.9. Its a plain jane relay, not the fancy ones.
BTW the link in the tech section for swapping 6.9 gp's to 7.3 solid state version is dead.. was trying to read up on maybe doing this.
Thanks to anyone that takes time to read this, Im stumped.
TJCSR- ThomasJamesCoatesSr.
All of the wires are factory except the one that says "cab switch" this is the one going inside. It is 12v with a inline fuse.
Her is my issue.
I bought the truck and 6 days later the WTS light stayed on for 3 days, Me not knowing *** this meant i did nothing until I got home and started reading. I came up with a thought that it was a bad relay.It had welded itself together inside. I then decided to replace the relay and hook up the manual switch, Not having $ to drop on GP's I never used the switch because i knew also that I had fried the GP's. always plugged it in to start or used go juice.. now I know not to use ether so i dont.
I finally had $ to drop on GP's so i went and picked up 8 beru's. Tossed them in, hopped in the cab and dammit, the relay stayed closed. I couldnt get out fast enough to unhook the 12v power so those GP's are cooked.
Pissed i started testing the relay. Using a jumper wire I manually engaged the cab switch from under hood. the 1st 20 times it would stick closed. So i took out the relay and bought another. when I got back home I decided to check the bad relay one more time. To my surprise its working 100%. I hooked up the cab switch and again 100% working. Same with everything hooked up, even dead GP's.
Im afraid to drop 8 new berus in and see if I can blow $100 in 30 seconds again.
BTW GP controller isnt plugged in anymore.
Could the good gp's be drawing too much and not allowing the relay to open back up?
Is there a difference between a starter relay and a gp relay? I thought i read somewhere that a starter relay was grounded by the housing and the gp was by the wire. Would this happen if they sold me a starter relay instead of a gp one?
This is for a 84 6.9. Its a plain jane relay, not the fancy ones.
BTW the link in the tech section for swapping 6.9 gp's to 7.3 solid state version is dead.. was trying to read up on maybe doing this.
Thanks to anyone that takes time to read this, Im stumped.
TJCSR- ThomasJamesCoatesSr.
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