Trying to revive the dead gp set up.

tjcsr

Registered User
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Posts
36
Reaction score
0
Location
central washington
Below is a picture of my manual GP set up. Is this correct?
All of the wires are factory except the one that says "cab switch" this is the one going inside. It is 12v with a inline fuse.

Her is my issue.
I bought the truck and 6 days later the WTS light stayed on for 3 days, Me not knowing *** this meant i did nothing until I got home and started reading. I came up with a thought that it was a bad relay.It had welded itself together inside. I then decided to replace the relay and hook up the manual switch, Not having $ to drop on GP's I never used the switch because i knew also that I had fried the GP's. always plugged it in to start or used go juice.. now I know not to use ether so i dont.
I finally had $ to drop on GP's so i went and picked up 8 beru's. Tossed them in, hopped in the cab and dammit, the relay stayed closed. I couldnt get out fast enough to unhook the 12v power so those GP's are cooked.
Pissed i started testing the relay. Using a jumper wire I manually engaged the cab switch from under hood. the 1st 20 times it would stick closed. So i took out the relay and bought another. when I got back home I decided to check the bad relay one more time. To my surprise its working 100%. I hooked up the cab switch and again 100% working. Same with everything hooked up, even dead GP's.

Im afraid to drop 8 new berus in and see if I can blow $100 in 30 seconds again.

BTW GP controller isnt plugged in anymore.

Could the good gp's be drawing too much and not allowing the relay to open back up?
Is there a difference between a starter relay and a gp relay? I thought i read somewhere that a starter relay was grounded by the housing and the gp was by the wire. Would this happen if they sold me a starter relay instead of a gp one?

This is for a 84 6.9. Its a plain jane relay, not the fancy ones.

BTW the link in the tech section for swapping 6.9 gp's to 7.3 solid state version is dead.. was trying to read up on maybe doing this.

Thanks to anyone that takes time to read this, Im stumped.

TJCSR- ThomasJamesCoatesSr.





You must be registered for see images attach
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Well, firstly test the glow plugs.
They may be fine.

I would get a different relay. Say one for the 7.3 Idi or psd.

May have been too weak of a relay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Personally you may look into the self regulating plugs.
60g's on the gm's. I ran mine for an hour by accident once and they're still good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

OLDBULL8

Good Morning Ya'll.
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Posts
9,923
Reaction score
338
Location
Delphos , Ohio
From the drawing you show, you are not going thru the ZigZag Chromalox strip that controls the inrush current and reduces the 12VDC to 8.5 VDC for the duration of a cycle, whether it be a manual cycle or by the controller. The 3rd pic is the kind of relay required, yes some relays are internally connected to ground, that is the kind used for a starter relay mounted on the passenger side fender. The 1st pic shows the complete GP controller, 2nd pic shows the connections as there suppose to be.
With 8 good GP's the initial current draw is 195 Amps which quickly reduces to 135 Amps as they heat for the duration of the cycle. The GP's glow at 1570 degrees when fully heated.

Edit: Re-reading your post, I guess you have the round GP controller that screws into the head, is that correct?
 

Attachments

  • GP relay.jpg
    GP relay.jpg
    7.1 KB · Views: 34
  • 7_3%20glowplug%20controller%20&%20relay.JPG
    7_3%20glowplug%20controller%20&%20relay.JPG
    12 KB · Views: 5
  • 7_3%20glowplug%20system%20wiring.jpg
    7_3%20glowplug%20system%20wiring.jpg
    8.8 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:

tjcsr

Registered User
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Posts
36
Reaction score
0
Location
central washington
Yes the GPC is the ARMY green thing looks like a roll of quarters.
I have a relay just as pic #3,
Ive read and reread diagrams and Im sure i have it correct,

The relay was stuck together for 20 mins, even out of the vehicle it was welded together. Took meter and tested it compared to a brand new one at the parts store and it showed indeed it was welded together. but then it opened,Ive had it weld itself together today and after 10 mins it "cooled down"?? and it opened back up.

I was thinking of maybe grabbing another relay and hooking it up with one gp wire to each, thus splitting the load, but cmon thats another $25. and shouldnt be needed.
 

OLDBULL8

Good Morning Ya'll.
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Posts
9,923
Reaction score
338
Location
Delphos , Ohio
I don't know what the difference is between a starter relay and the GP relays as far as contact size. The Gp relays must have larger contacts to handle the higher current. When you purchase a relay, you have to specify it's for a Glow Plug system on a diesel. Them counter guys will just give you anything that looks like it will do.
 

tjcsr

Registered User
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Posts
36
Reaction score
0
Location
central washington
aye, its silly when you goto a parts store and have to turn the computer around and type in your own info cuz the guy thats getting paid has no clue,
 
Top