Truck won't start with new starter/starter solenoid

[Big Bart]

Mishka,

It could very well be the lift pump, easy to replace and usually $30-40 for the part. So it would not hurt to just replace it, will likely keep you from a breakdown for a few more years.

Also the fuel tank guages in these trucks are known for giving up at this vintage. Are you sure yours works and you have fuel in that tank? If you do beleive it to work and its reading a quarter tank or lower. It can be the shower head or sock has come off (No longer sucking the bottom of the tank or has clogged the line.) Thus switching tanks the truck suddenly works as the other tank is still working fine.

However you may want to also use like 10psi off your air compressor (Don't go blasting at 110psi.), take off your fuel caps, blow some air down the fuel line where it hooks to the lift pump. (Rubber hose.) See if you hear bubbling in the fuel tank the fuel tank switch says its on, then the other just to confirm your switching valve is working correctly. If no bubbling or air sounds tell it to switch tanks and try again. (It may only work on one setting/tank now that it is going out.) Still no bubbles in either tank, it could be the selector valve is stuck between tanks, broken and letting air in, or clogged up. Keep in mind 10psi may push the insides of the selector valve back in place and it all works. Well till next time you switch tanks and it sticks again. But this test will tell you if it is working, starts working, or no longer is working. (Should only send air to the tank the selector is on.)

But still worth tossing a new lift pump on. If you do take the bolts and washers off and set asside before you pull it off the block. Once you pull it it opens a hole to the crankcase, if anything like a bolt or washer falls in, you have to get it out. That might mean pulling the oil pan or worse.

Let us know what you find out and send a pic or two!

 

[Mishka]

Thanks, my tank does have the 1/4 tank issue, I have the strainers but just hadn't gotten around to installing. However I ended up Rolling truck down hill on flatter ground and added 3 gallons I diesel to bring it to 3/4 a tank to ensure no air being sucked in.

Im scared to do the mechanical lift replacement, how easy is it to break that arm off in the cam shaft? Half tempted to install a duralift pump to avoid possible lobe breaking into cam

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It won't break inside the cam. It doesn't go inside the cam. If the arm hits the cam for some reason, it stops going toward the center of the engine. While I have heard of the arms breaking off (not just on IDIs), it's from high miles on the pump, not the install.

 

[Big Bart]

Mishka,

No reason to be scared, the arm on the pump is very stout. Its not going to bust off inside. It is not hooked on the cam, it just rides on a lobe of the cam like a valve lifter. You are not going to break your cam either.

You loosen the two fuel lines. Loosen the bolts, set out the way, and pull the pump straight back and out. (I can't recall if I took the vacuum pump out of the way or not.) Not much to it, if you have ever done a fuel pump on a gas car, it is the same thing. Just called a lift pump not a fuel pump. Nothing special.

The trick is to remember to match up the side of the lift pump arm that rides on the cam. I do not recall if its the top or bottom of the arm on our diesels, but the fuel pump arm is stamped sheet metal, one side is wide and smooth (This side runs on the cam.), the other side is two bent over pieces. (Faces away from the cam.) So it is obvious what side you want on the cam.

1) If the pump uses the top of the arm to rub on the cam. It will sit under the cam, so when you put it in, you put it in canted so the arm is heading towards the oil pan. Then when the pump case hits the engine block you tilt it even again. Not it will land under the cam. (The arm is usually 2-3 inches longer than it needs to be to assist with installing it. Keep in mind depending on where the cam lobe is you may have to lift up on the pump to get the bolt holes lined up. (The cam may be in the spot where it is trying to push the arm down and pump the pump.) You can also just rotate the engine a little to move the lobe out of the way if you find this part challenging. But the pump arm moves fairly easy, so usually not an issue even if the cam lobe is at its peak.

2) If the pump uses the bottom of the arm to rub on the cam. It will sit on top of the cam, so when you put it in, you put it in canted so the arm is heading upward to the drivers side valve cover. Then when the pump case hits the engine block you tilt it even again. Put in your bolts and rock and roll. The arm will now ride on top of the cam.

Get new rubber hose line for between the steel fuel line and the pump. Replace the clamps too.

Get a flare nut wrench (Think brake line wrench, same thing.) to take off the metal fuel line going to the fuel filter. (They sell a nice and inexpensive kit at Home Depot. Your auto parts store will have a set too.) These have 5 sides and the 6th is missing so you can get the wrench over the line. VS a standard wrench usually only grabs in 2 places.

Get a small can of Gascacinch or Permatex High Tach gasket sealer. Its like rubber cement. Put some on the fuel pump sealing surface. Give the a couple a minutes to tack up and put some on the gasket then put on the pump. This way it will stay on the pump when you put it in. But also seal against oil leaks. Clean off the engine block around the pump with a rag and brake cleaner. Then put some gasket sealer on the block. Then install and hook back up. We are all here to help and answer questions.

But if you are not up for it, totally understand. The good news is the job is pretty quick so won't be a ton of money.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I do not recall if its the top or bottom of the arm on our diesels,

The arm goes underneath the lobe on our engines.

 

[Scotty4]

Just did gasket today:

1 - pull vac pump
2 - clean area around fuel pump. I pressure washed.
3 - loosen hard line 5/8 wrench and remove both fuel lines
4 - loosen both bolts (9/16 socket) then tap pump to break gasket seat
5 - remove bolts then pump
6 - ford manual says shove rag in hole and clean seating surface. Just be careful not to get anything in there. Scrape with blade, fine steel wool it, lots of rag and brake clean
7- follow what Bradd recommends and tack up the pump side to hold the gasket.
8 - manual recommends bumping engine with remote switch until lobe is facing up then installing the pump with the arm at a downward angle to get it below the cam lobe. You can just fight the pump to make sure its below.
8 - tighten bolts and install lines
9 - bleed air and start. Check for leaks.