Truck won't start...not turning over, starter not engaging, nothing working

[nicknd]

I jumped in my 1985 F350 diesel this morning and it wouldn't start. When I let it sit in the "on" position (so the annoying buzzing would go away) I noticed the radio wasn't working and none of the dash lights came on. I tried to start it and got nothing. Truck will not turn over, batteries are not dead and the stater wasn't even trying to engage, there is absolutely nothing. I'm thinking it's the ignition. What are your opinions?


Edit: just went back out and tried to start it. Now when I leave it in the "on" position the buzzer will not shut off. It stayed on for more than 45 seconds so I just shut the truck off. Also, I have a manual glow plug button and that is not working either.

 

[kas83]

Fusible link?

Hope you get it running, I can't get a firm answer on the gooseneck so we might end up driving it home.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

check all batt connections, then start looking at fusible links on the pass side fender.

 

[nicknd]

Fusible link?

Hope you get it running, I can't get a firm answer on the gooseneck so we might end up driving it home.

check all batt connections, then start looking at fusible links on the pass side fender.

will do.

 

[fury9]

did you try jumping the starter solenoid with the key on?

 

[kas83]

Try the method I was going to use to load it on a trailer. Run a jumper wire from the positive post on the battery to the shut-off solenoid. Spray a tiny amount of ether down the intake, since you said the manual glowplugs won't work either. Jump the starter solenoid. If it turns, it will fire. It's the method I was going to use, just so we could get the truck down here to work on it and troubleshoot better.

 

[towcat]

dumb question.
what are you attempting to jump a diesel truck with?
if it is anything with a CCA less than the dead vehicle, you're ******* into the wind.
find someone with a good charging system in a diesel and jump it with that.
what I often do with a flatlined battery system on a diesel, is I will put two sets of cables on. 1 set per battery. This is not normally recommended practice at all. this is only when the **** has hit the fan and is flying towards you kinda emergency.

 

[gatorman21218]

What transmission do you have?

 

[nicknd]

What transmission do you have?

c6

 

[papastruck]

I jumped in my 1985 F350 diesel this morning and it wouldn't start. When I let it sit in the "on" position (so the annoying buzzing would go away) I noticed the radio wasn't working and none of the dash lights came on. I tried to start it and got nothing. Truck will not turn over, batteries are not dead and the stater wasn't even trying to engage, there is absolutely nothing. I'm thinking it's the ignition. What are your opinions?


Edit: just went back out and tried to start it. Now when I leave it in the "on" position the buzzer will not shut off. It stayed on for more than 45 seconds so I just shut the truck off. Also, I have a manual glow plug button and that is not working either.

I'm thinking you're warm. The inconsistent behavior with the dash lights and buzzer leads me to think something in the column between the switch and the key cylinder. These parts are problematic, and when the arm breaks, it doesn't necessarily do so cleanly, immediately rendering your key switch useless. That broken arm will play catch and release for a few times. You might be able to narrow the issue down by pulling the plastic cover off the column and seeing whether you get consistent behavior by moving the connecting rod that goes down along the top of the column to the ignition switch. You should be able to get enough leverage to move the ignition switch between all positions except "start" - you might have to get out and jump the solenoid for that. At any rate, if that generates consistent dash light/buzzer behavior, my money's on the lower ignition lock actuator arm. Info on replacing that here.

And if it is that, when you replace it, you might have to file it to get it to fit properly. Trust me, it takes a lot of key turns to wear it in!

Edit: I had a helluva time finding that arm at the auto parts stores, but LMC has 'em for not much. I don't think you'll go past $40 to get both the arm and the key cylinder, which also wears out, and you'll have a nice, tight feel.

 

[nicknd]

I'm thinking you're warm. The inconsistent behavior with the dash lights and buzzer leads me to think something in the column between the switch and the key cylinder. These parts are problematic, and when the arm breaks, it doesn't necessarily do so cleanly, immediately rendering your key switch useless. That broken arm will play catch and release for a few times. You might be able to narrow the issue down by pulling the plastic cover off the column and seeing whether you get consistent behavior by moving the connecting rod that goes down along the top of the column to the ignition switch. You should be able to get enough leverage to move the ignition switch between all positions except "start" - you might have to get out and jump the solenoid for that. At any rate, if that generates consistent dash light/buzzer behavior, my money's on the lower ignition lock actuator arm. Info on replacing that here.

And if it is that, when you replace it, you might have to file it to get it to fit properly. Trust me, it takes a lot of key turns to wear it in!

Edit: I had a helluva time finding that arm at the auto parts stores, but LMC has 'em for not much. I don't think you'll go past $40 to get both the arm and the key cylinder, which also wears out, and you'll have a nice, tight feel.

I actually think it's the main ground after looking it over more. The ground connecting to the engine block from the driver's side battery is cracked, rusty, and looks like it's ready to fall off.

 

[OLDBULL8]

You have a ground connection from each battery to the engine, and a small ground wire to the chassis.

 

[papastruck]

I actually think it's the main ground after looking it over more. The ground connecting to the engine block from the driver's side battery is cracked, rusty, and looks like it's ready to fall off.

I doubt one bad ground out of two will cause that funky inconsistent behavior when you turn the key like that - it will either work or it won't - and plenty of people have run these on one battery. But hopefully it is, that'd be a nice piece of luck.

 

[nicknd]

I doubt one bad ground out of two will cause that funky inconsistent behavior when you turn the key like that - it will either work or it won't - and plenty of people have run these on one battery. But hopefully it is, that'd be a nice piece of luck.

I'm still gonna shoot for the ignition too. But shouldn't you be able to turn the head lights on even if the ignition isn't working? Absolutely nothing is working as of right now, it Doesn't work sometimes, everything is completely dead.

 

[93f250idi]

I had this happen on an 84 f150 gasser. Turned out to be a fuseable link and the voltage regulator was bad. Check them on the passenger fenderwell