You are confused, both batteries start the engine, and both batteries run the accessories. I am not sure what you are talking about on the last part but you can easily load test a battery, even out of the truck with the proper tools.
Truck for sale. Was "need a mechanic who can work free in TN"
- Thread starter FORDMAN41291
- Start date
You are confused, both batteries start the engine, and both batteries run the accessories. I am not sure what you are talking about on the last part but you can easily load test a battery, even out of the truck with the proper tools.
punkmechanic
diesel tech
the batteries on these are run parrallel. that means they both are used for accesories and starting (hence the reason the lights dim when cranking). You HAVE to have 12 volts and over 1600 cca (850 +850 = 1700) to get things spinning fast. Its actually a lot more complicated than that based on temperature, oil viscosity, ohm load of cables and connections, and a lot of other things going into the equation but for simplicity go with the above statement.
punk
punk
FORDMAN41291
Full Access Member
well anyways I am still going down to oreilly to raise some hell up in there I am going to pull out a can of whoop &$$
k_williams1982
'01 Excursion 4x4
There seems to be an echo here, but you will need to batteries to start the truck. I have two 1,000 CCA batteries that are barely over a year old with a "gear reduction" starter, so my truck REALLY spins over when I hit the key. Get two good batteries in the truck and you will see the difference. If you have been cranking on it a lot (especially to "melt" the wire connection at the starter), then you have most likely damaged the starter and it will quit completely soon.
If the battery is fairly new it is more than likely good. The only problem is that you only have one. If you go in O'Reilys complaining about your battery they are going to load test it, or charge it and then load test and tell you that it is fine, you have other problems.
FORDMAN41291
Full Access Member
it just happened recently, it didn't really melt the wire the contact had a whole lot of rust on it, and it got hot and threw sparks and then it just came off I think the last person who owned this truck used the wrong gauge of wire/start contact thingy, it actaully turns faster with one battery believe it or not don't know why
ericboutin
Full Access Member
Kudos to all of you! Ya'll have way more patience than me! But it's kinda like a train wreck....I keep coming back for more....
Can't wait to see what happens next! 
Can't wait to see what happens next! 
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
i also have 2 1000 cca's and there almost 1200 ca above 32f a piece
Sounds like you need to also clean all of your contacts up and possibly replace some battery cables after you get a couple good batteries in there.
FORDMAN41291
Full Access Member
thats why if you look on page 5 or 6 I mentioned I was gonna put new cables on, it's only the positive tho I think I can get brand new ones at Advance Auto parts for like 12 or 13$ I call that old battery cable the "snake" because it's black from all the dirt and what not on it and it's so long
thats why if you look on page 5 or 6 I mentioned I was gonna put new cables on, it's only the positive tho I think I can get brand new ones at Advance Auto parts for like 12 or 13$ I call that old battery cable the "snake" because it's black from all the dirt and what not on it and it's so long
I made my battery cables out of 1 ga welder lead, inside of heater hose, at any point where I felt it could be damaged by sharp corners or fluids. Both positive leads run all the way down to the starter, so I know that every bit of juice is making it there, I ran a lead off the pass side battery to the fender solenoid, to power everything else. This setup works really well for me, I am about to add a 3rd battery just because I can, a friend gave me a good group 31 so I figured I had nothing to loose be adding it.
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
and also do a compression test please!
FORDMAN41291
Full Access Member
YES YES I WILL DO A C. Test, can the guy who made his own cable please make a diagram so I can follow suite
For the battery cables that I made I just took welder cable and routed it from the driver side battery first down to the starter and once I had it routed a safe route, I pulled it back out, cut it to length and put ends on it. Then I did the same thing with the pass side battery, routed it safely to the starter, cut to length and then put ends on it. After this I put a 2 ga pigtail with ring terminal ends from the passenger side battery to the solenoid on the fender. I am thinking about mounting my 3rd battery right behind the pass side battery and just using a short lead to connect it to the positive of the other battery and then run a ground down to the frame. For the grounds on the batteries I ran a ground from each battery to the engine block and grounding straps from the fram to the engine to the cab and from the battery to the cab and ..... pretty much they are everywhere.
