Troubles in Vegas

jrad235

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
388
Reaction score
16
Location
Vancouver, WA
Or should I say, on the way to Vegas. I ran into a "small" issue on the way here, that being that I cannot make any noticeable power during the heat of the day, the motor gets too hot.

On my first leg over some 5-6k ft hills, I had to drop the EGTs to between 6-700 degrees to keep the temp under 230, and consequentially, I was down to about 20 mph on grades that should not be considered grades. Must be the altitude. I also seemed to have some oil thinning, but that may be due to my electric sender, I was watching it fluctuate from 18-25 under throttle. I'm sure it was every bit of 80-90 degrees these two days.

On the second leg, I traveled all night and was astounded at the difference. Outside temp was between 30-50 and I was pulling grades at speed all night, usually with EGTs around 8-900 and even as high as 1100 for some, with no issues! Temp stayed near constant around 215 the WHOLE TIME! Until the sun came up, and the air heated to around 75, then I was back down to abysmal speeds on VERY LONG drawn out grades. Oil pressure seemed just fine where it usually is, around 35, no fluctuation.


In short, I need a aluminum radiator, a cowl induction hood, and somewhere to install the aforementioned. I leave Friday, unless I sort this out, then wide-open all weekend.

Unfortunately, I found a cowl hood for a 97-03, and a louvered hood for an 84. Nothing for mine. I may be able to get a radiator, but if someone knew a local shop selling them, that would be great.

By the way, I did install a "cold air intake" from a slightly older diesel while in Klamath Falls at the advice of Typ4 (Thanks for your help!), which did seem to help a little with EGTs, maybe 50-100 degrees, but not quite enough. I've got my fan clutch locked up and all that air needs to go somewhere!
 
Last edited:

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,102
Reaction score
1,389
Location
Newberg,OR
autozone can get the aluminum one in a day or 2 IIRC. just take off your hood. missed your call the other day.

Spectra Premium/Radiator

Click to View Details
Part Number: C1165
 
Last edited:

jrad235

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
388
Reaction score
16
Location
Vancouver, WA
Seems like they do carry the Spectra radiator, no information on number of cores or anything, but I am pretty secure with their quality. They made my rear tank and heater core, both good so far. $280 certainly isn't that bad. If it starts to rain when I get back to Oregon, will you help me re-install the hood? :p

By the way, did you still need 7.3 IP cores? If so, how much should they cost at a wrecking yard? I found two while I was getting that intake, forgot to ask how much though. I could go back there if you need them.

According to Champion they have 3 row and Spectra has 2 row, with 31 Fins Per Inch, sounds like they will do just fine either way.
 
Last edited:

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
Removing the hood is a great idea. I was going to suggest that but Russ did it for me. As for the radiater with 2 rows... Pass unless the rows are at least 1 1/4 inch wide. As for the 31 fins per inch... Not possible. 12 or 13 is what most replacement radiaters are these days but 15 or 16 is what we want and need. Get the champion with the three rows and be done with this issue. Many are running them and no issues... Be careful what you buy. Sad to see you haveing issues like this on vacation. Didn't someone suggest looking at the radiater core by draining down the coolant to see the tops of the tubes. I thought this had been discussed in this vacation thread some time back.. Maybe not...:dunno
 

jrad235

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
388
Reaction score
16
Location
Vancouver, WA
Thanks for chiming in Gary. I talked to Spectra tech before posting that, maybe he got the numbers reversed? The rows are definitely not that thick, total width of the core is 1 15/16. That is the one that Autozone carries. Spectra says OE replacement. Looks like I need to find a dealer for the Champion in town.

Not sure what you are referring to as far as looking at the tubes? My current rad is original, which is why I'm thinking of replacing it. I had made some modifications to the airflow and was hoping it would take care of the issue, since I did have a bit of trouble nearing the top of a 9% grade earlier this year, but apparently not.

Doesn't looks like there will be any moisture until I hit the Portland area, so if I can keep the windshield clear of bugs I see no reason not to run without a hood, other than the annoyance of having to put it back on. Can't imagine the sun doing any more harm to anything under there than the engine temp is doing. Sure would be nice to run the AC on the way back!


Kinda wish I had brought those extra scraps of diamond plate with me, it would have made a great bug deflector!
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
Draining the radiater top tank low enough to see the core top tube contition is what I needed to say. Champion radiaters are shipped from Temucla Ca ner Lake elsenoir Ca.
 

jrad235

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
388
Reaction score
16
Location
Vancouver, WA
Do you think they can get me one to Vegas by Friday? Also, if the tubes look good, are you honestly saying you would run a 20yr old radiator knowing what you know about the current issues?
 

Leeland

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Posts
951
Reaction score
84
Location
Oregon
I've seen one of those performance radiators in person, it was a nice piece. Wouldn't be scared to run one, single core and all. That yard I pulled that 093 out of had it. In fact the very same truck the turbo came from had the performance radiator, some one had just installed it before junking the truck. Only reason I didn't leave with it is cause they wanted $400 :rotflmao
 

Knuckledragger

blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
Posts
2,340
Reaction score
234
Location
Payson, AZ
With all this talk about radiators, are we sure the problem is only cooling? Seems like heat soak on the IP might be an issue.

I have pulled long and hard in the heat and never had the power loss he reported. It slowed down a lot, but I still managed 40 mph going up a grade with a trailer and no turbo.
 

vegas39

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Posts
1,601
Reaction score
69
Location
las vegas, nv
Im in Vegas, if you need anything let me know. pm me a phone number, I can call you. I bought my radiator at Oreilys, 306 bucks with tax and it cools great. It is a two row aluminum, deep rows.
I did some reading between brass/copper and aluminum radiators and found that a two row aluminum cools the same as a 4 row brass/copper.
The rows are quite a bit deeper on the aluminum models. You also need to make sure your fan clutch is locking up tight enough.
 

vegas39

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Posts
1,601
Reaction score
69
Location
las vegas, nv
I'll be here until tomorrow afternoon, then we're heading to San Diego to do my clutch.
 

jrad235

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
388
Reaction score
16
Location
Vancouver, WA
With all this talk about radiators, are we sure the problem is only cooling? Seems like heat soak on the IP might be an issue.

I have pulled long and hard in the heat and never had the power loss he reported. It slowed down a lot, but I still managed 40 mph going up a grade with a trailer and no turbo.

The power is there, but I can't use it or the engine gets too hot. Sorry if that was unclear in the first post. The IP and injectors are just over a year old from OFI. Is your cooling system original?
 

jrad235

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Posts
388
Reaction score
16
Location
Vancouver, WA
Looks like I'm stuck with a plastic tank rad. Can't reach anyone with Champion, and Performance only has one in Chicago. Autozone and Oreillys both sell plastic tank.(Picture is wrong on Autozone)
 
Top