aiyana7.3
IDI Enthusiast
I was hoping that wasn't the case. This axle already has the limited slip. Is that easy enough to find?
Tons of Sterling 10.25 Problems
- Thread starter aiyana7.3
- Start date
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Hub appears to be alright, as expected considering the bearing races are pressed and thus have no desire to spin inside it. The spindle on the other hand... Dunno what to tell ya there, the wide black band at the end of the thread is a definite sign the bearing race was spinning around the spindle and overheated it. Also the reason you could not preload the bearings properly appears to be that the end of the thread got galled and thus the nut was bottoming out on that mess before sinking in deep enough in the hub to preload the bearings properly. Then the gouges almost look like metal deposits on the otherwise smooth spindle, but they could very well be deep cuts into the metal, can't quite make it put properly from the picture.
I'd be looking for a replacement axle. Shouldn't be too hard to locate one, these trucks were ans still are pretty much everywhere, and it's not like you have a dually to deal with (those are less common than SRW usually). But that's me, I have access to some cheap salvage yards, you may not have any of those in your area, so you may wanna look into alternative means for repair. There are some big truck repair folks who specialize in just that, repairing spindles on both trailer and drive axles, in extreme case they will actually cut the damaged spindle off and weld a new one on in its place. May be an option? Idk, like I said I'd be replacing axles, but again I cannot see everything you can, so I can't tell you yay or nay for sure just based on a picture...
I'd be looking for a replacement axle. Shouldn't be too hard to locate one, these trucks were ans still are pretty much everywhere, and it's not like you have a dually to deal with (those are less common than SRW usually). But that's me, I have access to some cheap salvage yards, you may not have any of those in your area, so you may wanna look into alternative means for repair. There are some big truck repair folks who specialize in just that, repairing spindles on both trailer and drive axles, in extreme case they will actually cut the damaged spindle off and weld a new one on in its place. May be an option? Idk, like I said I'd be replacing axles, but again I cannot see everything you can, so I can't tell you yay or nay for sure just based on a picture...
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
IDK how easy a posi axle is to find in your area, but you can always swap yours current one in the new axle - I can gut a full-float axle in 15 min using just basic hand tools, putting it back together is equally fast and easy if you're not messing with the pinion. Basically involves popping both diffs out, dropping the ring gear off your current diff and replacing it with the ring gear from the new axle, then popping your old diff with the new ring gear into the new axle. There will be some shims on each side of the carrier bearing, like 1/4" thick spacers, keep those with the respective axle and pay attention to which one goes on which side - they get reinstalled EXACTLY how they came out, no switching them between the axles. Same with the bearing caps, those get bored as part of the housing, don't mix them up. Essentially the only thing you're replacing is one diff (and its bearings obviously) with another. Check your backlash when all is back together, if she's good put the cover on and fill her up and run her.
As said this spindle is never going to hold a bearing, That thing went a while low on oil , THEN the bearing broke when it finally locked up.
aiyana7.3
IDI Enthusiast
Ok so its time to find a new axle. What year models will work? Also I might want to do a D60 swap at the same time. The only thing is I just got done replacing all of the bearings, races, ball joints, and tie rods, ect- so what all would I be able to swap to the new axle?
Not much will swap I don't think. The outer stuff will (hubs, wheel bearings etc.) but the steering stuff is specific I think and I wouldn't try to reuse ball joints unless I absolutely had too even if they did cross which I doubt they do. The sterling 10.25's were in trucks from like 85 to the late 90's I think. I don't know if the later 10.5's are the same housing or not but I assume the internals are slightly larger. Those are in the super duty trucks like 98 up to ?
If you are planning to do a dual axle swap, here's a piece of advice, go buy a blown up parts truck that has the axles you want. You will probably get the entire truck cheaper than you can get the axles and it will have everything you need to do the swap. Not sure if there is a difference in the front springs between 460 and IDI but someone here will know that.
Hope that helps.
If you are planning to do a dual axle swap, here's a piece of advice, go buy a blown up parts truck that has the axles you want. You will probably get the entire truck cheaper than you can get the axles and it will have everything you need to do the swap. Not sure if there is a difference in the front springs between 460 and IDI but someone here will know that.
Hope that helps.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
We have 460 front leaves under our IDI, the engine alone flattens them, add a big bumper with a heavy winch and they arch the other way like F250 leaves do from the factory. If you're looking for a way to level a F250 while doing a D60 the 460 leaves may just do the trick, when they're flat they will pick the front up by an inch, and still be an inch below factory F350 ride height. They do ride quite nice though, the front axle pretty much just glides over bumps on the road.
For the rear axle '92-up should have the upgraded long-spline pinion and yoke, unfortunately those also come with straps to retain the U-joint to the yoke, as opposed to the 5/16" U-bolts the older yokes use. The straps are not any weaker that U-bolts (that I know of), but they are usually harder to remove in the field should you ever need to. Additionally there is a difference in U-joint size, most OBS and older Fords use 1330s behind automatic transmissions and 1350s behind stick-shifts. 1350 is larger and stronger. There are conversion U-joints out there for the times you end up with a 1330 shaft and a 1350 axle yoke (or the other way around), but in the interest of simplicity it's best to get a donor axle from a truck with a transmission that matches the recipient.
Oh yeah, time for a dually swap!!! lol
aiyana7.3
IDI Enthusiast
The door sticker says C5 for the axle code. I believe that is the 4.10 Limited slip. Is that correct? Also, can you get a D60 of a E350?
Thanks for all the help everyone
Thanks for all the help everyone
aiyana7.3
IDI Enthusiast
What is the significance of the C5? Sorry about all the questions im kinda new to this.
aiyana7.3
IDI Enthusiast
My truck has warn manual locking hubs. How hard are those to transfer to an axle that doesn't have them? Can they even go onto a D60?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
The second character of the axle code shows the axle ratio, "5" means 4.10 gears. The first character shows both the GAWR and whether it's a limited slip or not - "C" means that is a LSD-equipped SRW axle with a GAWR of 6000-something lbs, if it were an open diff the "C" would become a "3" and the axle code would be "35".
If you have the D50 front axle, which you should, then its hubs can be transferred to the D60. If you currently have a D44 axle, then no, those hubs are smaller than the D50/60 stuff.
aiyana7.3
IDI Enthusiast
Sterlings are easy enough to find but I cant even find a 1 ton being parted out. Theres some E350s available but I don't know if I could use those front axles.
