Tin bashing
- Thread starter david85
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david85
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david85
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Here it is. Looks like he forgot the rock guard at the bottom edge. No biggie, he said he can do it later once the truck is back together. That still seems like a long way off though.
...now I just need to psych myself up and tear into the cab. Last hurdle. Last hurdle....
...now I just need to psych myself up and tear into the cab. Last hurdle. Last hurdle....
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awesome David! awesome!
WOW!!! That is better than new!!!! Looks really good. This truck is going to look really nice when it's done!!!!
But, on a side note, what is the story with the trailer?????
But, on a side note, what is the story with the trailer?????
david85
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I was waiting for it. Yeah its pretty bashed and dented after all these years but it still gets more comments than anything else I've driven or towed. Even the guys that helped us load the box at the painter's shop were more interested in the trailer.Its 100% aluminum except for the steel running gear and pressure treated plywood deck. I designed it in AutoCAD and we built it from scratch years ago to haul railings long distance to and from the powder coating shop (100 miles away). Way easier and safer than throwing them on a truck headache rack. It also helped reduce fuel consumption for larger loads since frontal area was not added to the truck.
The curved side panels are simply 1/16" aluminum sheet that were ordered pre-bent to snap onto the upper and lower frames of the trailer structure. A few set screws then hold them in place. Not sure where the turbine rims came from but they look nice with the raw metal. The wheel arch was formed by making a frame behind that was strong enough to bash a fold into place with a rubber mallet. Turned out pretty good for a first try.
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david85
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Not too terribly bad though.
I'm curious how the floor pans look.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I'm curious how the floor pans look.
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david85
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The windshield started leaking nearly a year ago but got much worse in the last few months. Its wet under the carpet, but every time I peel it back, all I see is shiny red factory paint. Here's to hoping.
david85
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Cab looks pretty good. I will need to replace all the sheet metal at the bottom rear wall where it joins the floor but that won't be too bad. None of it really has to look pretty like a fender. The floors are good except for the mounts for the rear bench. The underfloor reinforcing always traps crud against the floor pan, so that may have to be removed. Its still solid but I don't want to tear it down again. The one last "known unknown" is the cab extension under all that cracked bondo. Hopefully it didn't rust through, but I'll find out soon enough.
Oh, and the carpet was a real pig to get out. It was wet, as expected. So even with all that water trapped underneath, I dodged a real bullet!
As an aside....does anyone know how the wheelbase of a superduty frame compares to the older OBS compatible frames? (1980-1996). I'm starting to think things that I shouldn't think about.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission...er/1174146927?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Would be a lot easier than sandblasting my frame, then hanging shackles for the front diff...A stronger frame would be nice too.
Oh, and the carpet was a real pig to get out. It was wet, as expected. So even with all that water trapped underneath, I dodged a real bullet!
As an aside....does anyone know how the wheelbase of a superduty frame compares to the older OBS compatible frames? (1980-1996). I'm starting to think things that I shouldn't think about.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission...er/1174146927?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Would be a lot easier than sandblasting my frame, then hanging shackles for the front diff...A stronger frame would be nice too.
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david85
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Hmm...
Looks like the SD extended cab with 8 foot box is 158" wheelbase, while the SD crewcab with 6.5 foot box is 156": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Super_Duty#F-250_solid_axle
My truck should have 155": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_F-Series_seventh_generation
1" difference seems doable if I use a crewcab SD donor frame. Cab and body mounts would have to be modified. Maybe the front bumper mount too.
Meh, I've got time to figure that out. Tin bashing takes way longer than a body swap.
david85
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More tin bashing...
I'll repair both cab corners before cutting out the rear bottom wall. That way nothing gets shifted out of alignment.
Rather than make a template, I simply pounded the cutouts flat and traced. Worked pretty good and one is almost ready for welding.
Still have to clean up the rust in the rear floor and beam though.
I'll repair both cab corners before cutting out the rear bottom wall. That way nothing gets shifted out of alignment.
Rather than make a template, I simply pounded the cutouts flat and traced. Worked pretty good and one is almost ready for welding.
Still have to clean up the rust in the rear floor and beam though.
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If you are thinking about a chassis swap have a look at Greg's build thread. He put his 91 on a 06 super duty chassis with axles. The big challenge is that the frames are shaped very different. He put an entire custom floor pan in his truck. Partly because it needed floors and partly because it had to be done to accommodate the shape of the frame.
The title of the thread itself should be amusing. It ended up anything but a budget build.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...alistic-budget-of-a-2wd-4wd-and-goodies-build
The title of the thread itself should be amusing. It ended up anything but a budget build.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...alistic-budget-of-a-2wd-4wd-and-goodies-build
david85
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Yeah, I've been following that one. I didn't realize dimensions were an issue with his floor though. Looks like I'll have my homework cut out for me if I ever go that route.
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