Timing problems

Sparky95

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Cracking injector lines causes a dead miss on all eight cylinders. Rattle gets a tad quieter but it's still there. The rattle is only terribly bad driving it though. In park it sounds like a powerstroke. Driving it the rattle is louder than the straight pipe exhaust and the mud tires combined. And I guess I'm the only person in Martin County with a dern timing light.
 

laserjock

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Are you sure the timing tape is on right? You unplugged the cold advance right?
 

Sparky95

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The tape is centered on the line on the dampener. It starts at TDC. If you're standing on the passenger tire looking down at it and the tape and timing tab is lined up, then the numbers run up and over towards the drivers side. The scale on the tape runs from TDC to BDC. So that should be on correctly. And I didn't unplug the cold advance, but I always get it at operating temperature before I do anything so that shouldn't affect it any, should it?
 

Sparky95

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I tried to post a video but couldn't get my phone to do it. Maybe I can figure it out on the laptop.
 

Sparky95

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https://youtu.be/XtChqPN95eY

Please excuse the farm tractor in the background right before I stuck the phone out the window.
It does the knocking and smoking at all temperatures. It does that lugging lope every time it's in gear and you're stopped. I think that's transmission related, it's throwing codes.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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Did you have any trouble getting it started after pump install? Didn't use ether right? How far off is Mel's timing mark from your housing mark? What type of fuel pump are you running?
 

Sparky95

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I couldn't get it to start with the static marks lined up orginally. Right now Mel's mark is about an 1/8 inch towards the drivers side. When it was showing 18° it was an 1/8 towards the passenger side. At static timing i was reading 12°. I have used ether a couple of times when the fuel system lost prime but not after replacing any components. My fuel filter developed a leak (like 1/3 of the top oring leaking like a sieve). That's mostly when I used it. The previous owner said that they had to use ether to crank it at the end. I bought it after it sat for 2-3 years not running. A month after I got it running with new injectors the IP got heat soak. That's when I bought the bull moose. And I'm running a Carter mechanical lift pump. I guess the new lift pump is why it will now crank with the static marks lined up.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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What pressure is that pump rated at? And can you verify? Over pressurizing the pump will increase timing internally. I think 8 or 9psi is max?

Sorry I misread that as electric pump. So you have factory mechanical.
 

laserjock

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Just to cover the bases, you are using the right sight point on the timing tab right? Bill Oldbull8 has a thread in the tech articles on timing with a ferret. Al linked the timing tape thread. Being that far advanced makes me wonder how you are reading the tape relative to the timing tab. I don't remember seeing a line on the timing tab. Maybe someone can confirm or deny it. Might try #4 just for grins and giggles. Should get the same answer.

Still got the old pump? That would be the next sanity check and you may want to raise your idle just a tad.


Edit. Went and looked at Al's thread and there is clearly a zero mark if your tab is clean enough to see it.
 

JLtoolman

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I have the stuff to time it, but I am a couple of hours away. I don't know if it is still a problem, but years ago Ford was notorious for harmonic balancer outer rings moving. I would verify that the TDC mark is actually TDC.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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I would think by looking at timing marks on cam and crank but i am not sure how you could do that with the cover in place. I dont think you can remove a glow plug or injector and piston with a piece of wire or anything becuase of the pre chamber.

Did you use the timing tape before installation? I just installed a bull moose pump this week, havent started the truck yet, but i used my ferret meter and timing light previusly on my truck and marked everything before i removed it to be sure my crank pulley and pump were in the correct position.
 

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