Timing by ear

mankypro

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Well, tomorrow I'm going to install my new IP. I'm going to attempt to time it by ear until I can get it professionally timed at a big rig mechanic next week.

Other than the fuel system write up by Agnem is there a walk through on how to accomplish this somewhere?
 

icanfixall

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Well, I personally would use some brake clean on the 3 threaded holes that the 5/16 hex bolts fit and then use some Blue Loctite ao they don't come out easily. Some members have had a issue with these bolts getting loose. They require 25 lbs of torque. Don't drop anything into the motor. A member on the other site did but he used a magnet and found it. Didn't have to strip the front of the motor to find it. Thats a lucky dog fur sure...
 

RLDSL

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Why not save your money on getting it timed and just buy a Ferret and then you'll own the tool for next time?plus you'll have the satisfaction of knowing for sure that you have the timing spot on and not just so so, somewhere within *acceptable*specs, which, by the way, with the new fuel, are too far retarded anyway. If you really want it to run right on the ULSD, you'll want to set it about 9.7 deg btdc by pulse method. I set mine even a little more than that and the thing got it's pre ULSD power back and brought the fuel mileage up.
 

mankypro

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Last time I did timing was a million years ago on a gasser. Not sure I'd know what to buy or what to do?

Does Sears sell a good timing rig with a luminosity probe? Maybe I could get one at Advance Auto or Checker?

How much money are we talking about here?
 

Andylad13

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with the new fuel, are too far retarded anyway. If you really want it to run right on the ULSD, you'll want to set it about 9.7 deg btdc by pulse method. I set mine even a little more than that and the thing got it's pre ULSD power back and brought the fuel mileage up.

you sold me already, who sells the ferrett and for how much???
 

69oiler

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there will be a mark scribed on the pump mounting flange and on the IP gear housing. you want to line those up to start with. every IDI i have worked on ended up with the IP advanced to the passenger side, between 1/16" and 1/8" from the marks lined up, when it was timed right.

it's impossible to communicate exactly how to time by ear without actually doing it in person. the way i do it is to advance the timing until she really clatters and then back it off a touch. the 2 times i did it this way, i had Mel check it with his meter. one time the timing was perfect and the other time i was about 2 degrees retarded.

as far as actually turning the pump, if you don't have the special tool you can carefully use a big crescent wrench or channel locks on the top square part of the pump to turn it. also you will need to grind down a 9/16 box wrench to fit on the mounting nuts.
 

mankypro

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I'm about to head out to get some brass fittings to replace the hard line return from the IP which is nearly impossible to get back on - then I'll try the timing by ear thing.

I should go plug in the block heater now.
 

subway

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i cant find the link off hand but the adapter is about 150 and it clamps onto the number 1 injector line and crates a signal a regular timing light can read. you then can time it like a gasser by watching the degre marks in the balancer.
 

Diesel JD

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True, but you'll also need an adjustable strobe timing light since these things only have the 0 for TDC and no other timing marks.
 

Agnem

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....until I can get it professionally timed at a big rig mechanic next week...

Make sure you ask that mechanic if he will be using the luminosity or pulse method, and what the timing will be set to. If he doesn't come back with a quick answer, I'd hold his abilities in questionable regard. ;Really Some of those guys, when confronted with an engine that they do not have a tool for, or knowledge of, will just fake it and hope for the best.
 

mankypro

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The issue is the learning curve. I haven't timed anything in more than 20 years, I forget how it's done. That plus investing $300.00+ in tools I don't know that I can drive properly to begin with makes me wonder what I should do.

I've noticed a 1/2"x1/2" piece of reflective tape on my crank pulley bellhousing, wonder if that's the result of someone doing timing with a light? Ideas?
 

HammerDown

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I would do as Mel suggested above...ask questions. If the shop looks at you like you've got a third eye go somewhere else.
I'm not about to invest $300 smakers in timing tools I'll only use once when I install my new IP...I'll simply ask the questions Mel suggested.
 
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jhnlennon

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt the ferret pulse adapter only like 150 bucks? I would bet a shop would charge close to that just to time a truck once.
 

RLDSL

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Here's the ferret $156 plus you'll need an induction pickup, adjustable advance type automotive timing light. Should be able to find one for around $50+ ( good ones start around $80 )

You just clean up the pipe around #1 or 4, then attach the clamp from the ferret, attach the battery leads from the ferret to the battery. attach the timing light battery leads to the battery, attach the induction clamp from the timing light to the induction loop on the ferret box. take some white paint and fill in the line on the balancer to make it easier to see., same for line next to 0 on tag, set dial on timing light for desired degrees advance.

If it's on, the lines will line up on the 0, if not, it's adjustment time. IT's that simple.
 

mankypro

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At what rpm do you do this? Or can you do it at idle?


Here's the ferret $156 plus you'll need an induction pickup, adjustable advance type automotive timing light. Should be able to find one for around $50+ ( good ones start around $80 )

You just clean up the pipe around #1 or 4, then attach the clamp from the ferret, attach the battery leads from the ferret to the battery. attach the timing light battery leads to the battery, attach the induction clamp from the timing light to the induction loop on the ferret box. take some white paint and fill in the line on the balancer to make it easier to see., same for line next to 0 on tag, set dial on timing light for desired degrees advance.

If it's on, the lines will line up on the 0, if not, it's adjustment time. IT's that simple.
 

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