Timing adjustment problem

Mherriford

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I was working on my truck today checking and adjusting the timing. I recently bought a ferret timing adapter and an adjustable advance timing gun. It turns out that the truck was only set to 2* So I set about adjusting it but I ran into a problem. I cannot adjust the injection pump to get more than 5* or the high idle solenoid runs into the upper radiator hose. Any ideas on what I can do to reach the appropriate 8-9.9* of timing?
 

riotwarrior

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I was working on my truck today checking and adjusting the timing. I recently bought a ferret timing adapter and an adjustable advance timing gun. It turns out that the truck was only set to 2* So I set about adjusting it but I ran into a problem. I cannot adjust the injection pump to get more than 5* or the high idle solenoid runs into the upper radiator hose. Any ideas on what I can do to reach the appropriate 8-9.9* of timing?

Many things could be going on here;

First one that comes to mind, that IP was replaced and when they did it they may have lifted the timing gear cover and placed it back off a tooth, that could do what you describe.

Second that comes to mind is perhaps the timing light is not as accurate as one would hope and does not read/adjust advance as well it may claim too.

Third potentially incorrect cylinder but highly unlikely, # 1 is passengers side most forward cylinder.

Fourth, the timing mark you are reading or where the light is shining onto could be incorrect. The timing mark on the harmonic lines up with the LOWER hole that has a short tube NOT THE LONG tube. When that timing mark on the harmonic lines up with the center of that hole it's 0 degrees and your adjustment should back it down to that same location.

See these threads for more information on marks and timing!
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...FOR-TIMING-LIGHTS-Tech-101&highlight=TECH+101

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?64122-TECH-101-TIming-tape-and-timing!

Hopefully that can help you out some, If not my first thought is whats up.

JM2CW

Al
 

bbjordan

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Timing_the_6.9-7.3_IDI_101

The Injection Pump may have been replaced in the past incorrectly. It is possible that the IP is out by a tooth, or it might be the pump going. You could take the the IP gear housing off and advance (turn clockwise) the timing gear by a tooth or two. Each tooth is about 6.79 degrees. You will want to take the IP off first.

This document will give you a pretty good idea of what to do. I have since found a simpler way to determine TDC: by feeling for the "Y" on the cam gear with a dental pick. Kind of like seeing with your fingers, only with a dental pick. :)

Timing_the_6.9-7.3_IDI_101.pdf
 

icanfixall

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Well so far everything posted sure is what could be wrong with your engine timing. We have not seen how your timing this engine so this may help. Time off the number 1 or 4 cylinder hard line. Each cylinder is marked on the intake port runner near the heads. May need to clean off some road grime to see the number but they are there. Cylinder arangment is drivers side from fan to firewall is 2,4,6,8. Passenger side from fan to firewall is 1,3,5,7. On the dampner tab the short probe location is the zero degree timing mark. Not the tall skinny probe location but the tall location is where we install the magnetic probe. Cleaning out that location is important for a good contact. On my timing meters I use three business cards to set the mag probe from the cleaned off dampner wheel and I calen out the machined line in the dampner too. Then its time as needed. About the only issue not mentioned in the above posts is a well worn out injection pump that has a slipping timing parts in it. So if we know how many miles are on the pump we my have some advice. I'm hopeing like others that you injection pump and gear cover was not removed as one piece. Thats how the gear timing gets messed up. Then what happens is you try to advance the pump but it runs out of movement like what you describe.
 

Mherriford

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I am timing via the ferret adapter following oldbulls write up. I have the same actron timing light he was using. i have never had the injection pump gear cover off but who knows what a po did. the truck is showing 50k i have reason to believe it only has 150k total but once again who really knows. i am timing off the number one cylinder. passenger side front. i will try hooking up to number four to see if i get the same results. I know the ip has been replaced in the past. but i dont know how much mileage is currently on it. I wanted to get the tools to time it before i worried about getting a new pump.
 

dbensen

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One off the wall thought. Could the harmonic balancer have slipped on it's rubber dampener causing the reading to be off? I say this because of something that happened about ten years ago with Michael Fowlers other truck. I checked his timing using the ferret adapter and found it to be insanely advanced. Something like 28 degrees if I remember correctly. This is the same reading he had been getting. It sounded great and ran just fine but the numbers didn't make any sense. We kind of figured it was the balancer which was off. Just a thought before tearing into something that may not be broken. Not sure how to calibrate a harmonic balancer.
 

icanfixall

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Well about the easiest way to know if the injection pump gear is timed correctly with the cam gear is to pull the small cover on the front of the injection pump gear cover. Thats the half circle aluminum piece the pump bolts to. The cover is a thin piece of metal with 2 bolts in it. Remove that and look at the three bolts that hold the injection pump to the gear. You wil have to rotate the crank till its at top dead center number one cylinder. You will either be correct or 180 degrees out when the marks line up on the dampner. You want the dampner lined up in the middle of the short probe location on the timing tab. Then the three bolts under the cover will be facing prefectly down on the lowest bolt. If its not your gear timing is wrong..
 

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