Aftermarket #1 injector line & timing problems

[DirtyWood]

I have an aftermarket injection line on #1 and cannot manage to get a stable reading. I've tried every little trick I know with no real success. By very subtle adjustments of the piezo clamp I can get a pretty stable idle RPM reading but when I go to 2k RPM I get fluctuations in degrees and RPMs.
On a sanded and cleaned factory line I get a stable reading nice and easy every time so it's not the timing unit.

Anybody know if there is a variance in aftermarket lines or are they all pretty much the same?

 

[Trevtron]

Yeah, there’s some variance.
OEM lines are made from hardened steel with tight wall specs; a lot of aftermarket ones aren’t. Softer tubing or a slight diameter change can distort the pressure pulse the piezo clamp reads, so you’ll get a jumpy signal off-idle.
If the factory line gives a clean trace and the aftermarket one doesn’t, that’s your answer — they’re not all the same.

 

[DirtyWood]

So Ebay & the JY it is for a #1 line.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

The aftermarket ones, even trustworthy IDI brands, can be wrong. Notice now most of them don’t differentiate between 6.9 lines, van lines, turbo lines, etc. when there are differences between them all from factory. I measured my factory lines by pushing some 80lb fishing line through them to measure the internal length. I found the aftermarket ones I bought were 1-2” different. You’re better off finding a good used set if you can, the only thing good about new ones is the clamps.

 

[ihc1470]

Can you get onto line #4 which I believe is 180 off from #1?

 

[DirtyWood]

Can you get onto line #4 which I believe is 180 off from #1?

I don't see why not. What are you getting at?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What are you getting at?

You can use #4 to set your timing just like #1. Internationals and vans time off of #4 instead of #1.

 

[DirtyWood]

You can use #4 to set your timing just like #1. Internationals and vans time off of #4 instead of #1.

I incorrectly assumed there must've been a timing adapter or something for the #4 line on vans. So just attach the clamp to #4 line and that's it?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I incorrectly assumed there must've been a timing adapter or something for the #4 line on vans

6.9s didn't use one in trucks either.

So just attach the clamp to #4 line and that's it?

That's it.

 

[DirtyWood]

I have read countless forum posts regarding timing and many other aspects of these old trucks but I am surprised I never came across anyone mentioning that either #1 or #4 could be used for timing. This is a useful piece of info especially as parts age, fail, and are replaced with "close but no cigar" aftermarket offerings.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I've seen it mentioned on here before.
I learned it back in the 90's when I was working on these for a living. It makes sense when you know about it. My guess is that it's for easier access to the injector line. I know that #1 is very hard to get to on vans. I don't remember what's all in the way on Internationals. Side note, Internationals have the 6.9 style oil filler tilted toward the driver's side too. Again, it's most likely for easier access.

 

[Black dawg]

you can hook the wires from the pulse meter right to the timing adapter on the number one line. Be interesting to see if it reads correctly with that aftermarket line.

 

[DougBoy66]

I have aftermarket lines also and use the DTI Tech and time. Worked the first use but not so steady any more. I think the problem i am having is I have the 6.35 mm transducer and need to order the 6mm after measuring #1. But I think I will try #4 before I order a new transducer.

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[DirtyWood]

I have aftermarket lines also and use the DTI Tech and time. Worked the first use but not so steady any more. I think the problem i am having is I have the 6.35 mm transducer and need to order the 6mm after measuring #1. But I think I will try #4 before I order a new transducer.

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I measured a couple of the factory steel lines and all my readings were about .250-.255, so right about 6.35mm. This matches up with my experience where the only way I could get a stable RPM reading on the aftermarket line was by tightening the line clamp much more than normally required.