Ticking/chugging noise

[FordGuy100]

Okay guys, I'm getting worried that something is going wrong. I've had this weird ticking sound since before the turbo install, but it has gotten louder. It kinda ticks at idle, though its really quite, especially in the cab. But when I'm driving and I have any more than 1/4 throttle it will tick, kinda sounds like a valve is going or something, and it changes how fast it does it by the rpm's. It get louder as rpm's increase. Now add on to that I'm getting this chugging sound, almost like an exhuast leak possibly on a big block gasser, its especially loud at lower rpm's at full throttle. But it will go all the way to redline. There is another thing, this tick sound, is also accompanied by a really high-pitched ticking sound. Its almost like something wrong with the turbo, high pitched tick, but its just as slow as the regular ticking noise, so its not like it sounds like its coming out of a turbo spinning 100k+ rpm's. It will only have this high pitched one after a long hard pull at max boost (7psi) going up a hill, or accelerating hard. It will then continue for a while, but then after a couple miles or so it goes away.

I'm running a full bottle of PS between the two tanks, so I think I should be good there.

Please dont let it be a fricking valve problem, if it is I'm running this thing until it blows...........

 

[oldmisterbill]

Justin - You have a real nice truck. Don't let it go too far without solving the puzzle.It usually will cost more if it goes too long. Good luck.

 

[typ4]

Start with rocker arm inspection.

 

[FordGuy100]

Start with rocker arm inspection.

I fricking knew it. Finals are next week, so this weekend is devoted to that, so hopefully it will last me to the weekend after next.

What am I looking for under there? How much are new rocker arms if I have to get them, I suppose I couldnt just replace the one I would have to replace all of them.

 

[Diesel JD]

I'd not assume anything in or out yet. As you may have deduced from reading here its the chuffing or popping out the exhaust or intake that you ahve to worry about. You want to make sure first that its not some kind of exhaust leak since your just done with a lot of turbo work, that its not any of the turbo pipes hitting the body intermittently. Also there's the dreaded anything hitting an injection line. Rocker arms are not cheap to replace that is for sure. You might want to see if any member has a decent set of used updated rockers they would part with. The strap type rocker which you and I have is not a great design. The pivot style is what you want if it comes to that. Also you may be hearing a bad lifter or two. In any case you may be being paranoid or you may be hearing a problem...hard to say when you can't hear it for yourself.

 

[FordGuy100]

I'd not assume anything in or out yet. As you may have deduced from reading here its the chuffing or popping out the exhaust or intake that you ahve to worry about. You want to make sure first that its not some kind of exhaust leak since your just done with a lot of turbo work, that its not any of the turbo pipes hitting the body intermittently. Also there's the dreaded anything hitting an injection line. Rocker arms are not cheap to replace that is for sure. You might want to see if any member has a decent set of used updated rockers they would part with. The strap type rocker which you and I have is not a great design. The pivot style is what you want if it comes to that. Also you may be hearing a bad lifter or two. In any case you may be being paranoid or you may be hearing a problem...hard to say when you can't hear it for yourself.

That was my first thought, an exhaust leak. So I'll probably check that first before anything else. I dont think I have anything hitting any injection lines, though I might. I'm hopeing its not something major. I had the same sound before the turbo install (did I say that before?), at idle outside the cab or under the hood it sounded like a tick. But Russ saw it running making that sound and didnt say anything, so maybe I'm just hearing things .

 

[kcw12]

I've got a tick, metal noise and a few other things. The metal noise is the damn clutch fan, these motors are so posed to tick i beleive.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

the lifters can create a tick if they get clogged. You may consider running some of that AutoRX in your next few oil changes to clean your engine out.

 

[FordGuy100]

the lifters can create a tick if they get clogged. You may consider running some of that AutoRX in your next few oil changes to clean your engine out.

Yeah, that could be it. Where do I pick up this AutoRx stuff? I would really like to start with the easy stuff first. But I suppose I should be running AutoRx in there anyways just to get it all cleaned out.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Here ya go Justin.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
The more you buy the cheaper the stuff is. Im buying a whole case cus its even cheaper than the cheapest he has listed if you do it that way.
Depending on the mileage of the truck, changes the number of uses you have to run through it. And this stuff is a slow cleaner, so it wont clog up or ruin your turbo.
I know i have been running my red truck for almost a year with strange nasty noises, and I know most of them are because of poor maintenance by the previous owner.

 

[FordGuy100]

How much do I need for my motor? A couple bottles should be good for a while right? Hopefully it will make this sound go away.

 

[Dave Barbieri]

Lifter noise will increase in speed/frequency with engine rpm. A leaking/defective injector will increase in loudness with throttle. An exhaust leak will respond similar to an injector. From your description (loudness increases with throttle), it sounds like either an injector or a leak (valve or exhaust manifold). Here's a quick & cheap way to troubleshoot:

1. In fourth gear, accellerate the truck from 30mph to 45mph. As you're accelerating, listen to the noise and let up on the accelerator. If the noise goes away, it's an injector or valve leak. If the noise stays the same as you let up on the 'go pedal', it's valve-related.

2. To further determine whether it's a valve leak or injector, stop the engine and remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the two elctrical wires that go the top of the injection pump (cold start relay and fuel solenoid). This prevents the truck from starting. Have a friend crank the engine over while you listen. A bad intake valve will give a noticeable 'chuffing' noise thru the intake. To identify a leaking exhaust valve, listen at the tailpipe. If you hear the 'chuffing' here, your problem is a leaking exhaust valve.

3. Now, isolate which cylinder is affected. Reconnect the two electrical wires to the IP and, start the engine and let it idle with the air cleaner off. One at a time, loosen the fuel line connectors at the top of the injection nozzles. Less than half a turn should do it. You'll notice fuel starts leaking out of the fitting and the engine starts to run rough as you loosen the connector. (It's just like pulling plug wires off a gasser to isolate a bad cylinder. 'Cept you don't have to worry about getting shocked!) Just like on a gasser, a bad cylinder will show little change in engine idle.

These are simple, low-tech tests that you can perform in your driveway. They'll give you an idea of wether you're looking at a 'bolt-on' fix - bad injection nozzle, or a high-dollar problem - burned/sticking valve. Happy hunting!

 

[FordGuy100]

Well then its definatly a lifter/injector/valve problem, because it goes away when you get off the throttle. Going from 30-45 mph in 4th, the sound gets faster as the rpm's do and it gets a little louder. And if I back down to around 1/4 throttle the sound will go away and the truck sounds and runs real smooth.

There's no way I'm taking off my intake, that require me to re-clock the turbo and everything, and there is no way in hell I'm going through that again so soon.

Can someone explain the chuffing sound? I mean I have to listen throught the tail pipe, and the sounds all mix together with the turbo and engine idleing and everything. But it doesnt really sound like it. I heard one sound clip of a exhaust valve that wasnt working right and it had a high pitched clunking sound to it, and I dont have that so thats good.

I guess I will go out and fill up my rear tank with 1.25 bottles of PS, change the fuel filter, and then drive the crap out of it . Hopefully its just a dirty injector.

And thank you oh so much Dave, those tips help out a bunch .

 

[Dave Barbieri]

Well then its definatly a lifter/injector/valve problem, because it goes away when you get off the throttle. Going from 30-45 mph in 4th, the sound gets faster as the rpm's do and it gets a little louder. And if I back down to around 1/4 throttle the sound will go away and the truck sounds and runs real smooth.

You're listening for the noise when you first let off the throttle. As the truck starts to decellerate, does the noise quit? You're trying to determine if the noise goes away immediately, or if the noise gets lower as the truck/engine speed gets slower. If an injector is bad, the noise goes away as soon as you cut the fuel. A lifter/valve problem will still be heard as the truck loses speed.

There's no way I'm taking off my intake, that require me to re-clock the turbo and everything, and there is no way in hell I'm going through that again so soon.

Actually, it's the air cleaner that you remove. With the air cleaner off, a sticking intake valve will be very easy to hear through the round intake opening where the air cleaner sits.

Can someone explain the chuffing sound?

Sounds like someone hitting a bass drum down the block. Not real loud, but a very distinctive hollow booming sound.

I mean I have to listen throught the tail pipe, and the sounds all mix together with the turbo and engine idleing and everything.

Try again, this time with the engine off. If it's an exhaust valve leaking, you'll hear the 'bass drum' through the tailpipe. Gotta have the engine off to hear that. Otherwise, WAY too much interference.

I guess I will go out and fill up my rear tank with 1.25 bottles of PS, change the fuel filter, and then drive the crap out of it . Hopefully its just a dirty injector.

I love a cheap fix!

 

[HammerDown]

Try again, this time with the engine off. If it's an exhaust valve leaking, you'll hear the 'bass drum' through the tailpipe. Gotta have the engine off to hear that. Otherwise, WAY too much interference.

Silly me but I have a Question... if one is trying to hear a engine noise like a tap or "bass drum" at the tailpipe...how would any engine make that noise (if) the engine is off ?

*I know the old trick about closing the intake/exhaust valves, filling the cylinder in question with air to hear if the intake/exhaust valve is leaking/blowby at the exhaust pipe or intake manifold locations, but is this what your referring for the poster to do