Throttle Positioning Sensor

[lgettler]

Which way do I turn the TPS sensor to lower it from 1.1 to .95 or thereabouts, I am looking for a smoother shift as it pops my head if I stomp on it.

 

[DragRag]

You need to use a volt meter, not just turn it.

 

[dakotajeep]

lGettler

I really hope that your reference to the voltage is because you have a voltmeter. If you do use a paper clip in the middle wire and a good ground to achieve the voltage you want.

If you dont have a voltmeter.......dont move the FIPL (or TPS on a gas rig) since you are more than likely going to mess things up. But its your rig, time and money.

Thad

 

[lgettler]

I know how and where to use the volt meter it was I forgot which way to move it, I am using a 60 dollar digital voltmeter and a paper clip on the middle pin. I just want to soften up the shifts when I step on it. I value my neck. Thanks guys.

 

[dakotajeep]

All that you have to do is twist the FIPL and stop when you get the desired voltage. As long as you have the engine off you can twist it either way to figure it out.

 

[OB_WAN]

I just changed out my FIPL and found that very minute changes had fairly drastic voltage changes so you have to leave the volt meter hooked up, the bolts loose, and just slightly turn it back and forth until the volt meter reads correctly.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

If you look at the FIPL (TPS) you have to turn it slightly clockwise to lower its voltage readings. That said, your issue ain't with the TPS, as no factory E4OD shifts like you describe unless its PCM has discovered a problem somewhere and has entered a failure-management mode where it ramps up the line pressure to prevent possible damage to transmission internals.

 

[sootman73]

so the lower the voltage the lighter the shifts are?

mine snaps my neck too when it shifts. its just too ******* ujoints and i dont even want to think about the trans internals.

but i have the tugger kit with the banks transcommand(raises line pressure)

 

[LCAM-01XA]

yes, lower voltage makes for lower line pressure, resulting in earlier and softer upshifts, also downshifts will be delayed. Personally I'd use the voltage to adjust the shift points, and then play with the Tugger kit or the Banks PCM for the firmness.

 

[sootman73]

i think thats what i will do because the shifts are so slow that when accelerating hard the acceleration actually stops while the trans is deciding to shift. is there a minimum voltage for the FIPL setting? if so there must also be a max so what is the range that the voltage can be set to?

i have a reading of .99vdc right now and i didn't change it because i didn't know how low i could go.

 

[dakotajeep]

First,

The truck must be at normal temp. The idle MUST be set at 650 RPM. The voltage should then be set at 1.1 volts with the engine off.

With the engine off at WOT the volts should be 3.8-4.3.....


You are asking what the voltage range can be at idle......not certain but I would first ensure that you are ensuring a proper proceedure first....

NOT trying to insult you!! I just want to help make certain that you are doing it 100% the right way....

Thad

 

[gandalf]

Thad's got it right. I'll paste in an old post by CDNSARGUY on the other site, copied originally from DieselDon, even longer ago.

*****************

RGMS4x4 I think your ok as long as the engine idle was set to spec. This is a post by DieselDon I have taken the liberty to trim slightly....... Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire), I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL. Engine off key on........ With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V. The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly. The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V. --------------------

**********************

This information should perhaps be stickyed in somewhere as basic maintenance.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

i think thats what i will do because the shifts are so slow that when accelerating hard the acceleration actually stops while the trans is deciding to shift. is there a minimum voltage for the FIPL setting? if so there must also be a max so what is the range that the voltage can be set to?

I know exactly what you're talking about, I had the same issue with my truck - I have the regular Transgo kit with a .427 modulator valve and forgot what else separate add-on, and my shifts still took forever to complete - what I did to deal with it is drop all the VB pieces again, and then drill out the holes in the separator plate that feed the accumulators - faster accumulator fill makes for faster shifts, it also firms them up a bit too (but not too much). Also, my take on the TransCommand - it's just snake oil, I've looked at its installation manual and all it does is jack up the line pressure, it's supposed to be driveline-load-sensitive but I fail to see how it accomplishes that when it only intercepts the EPC voltages and has absolutely no input from the shift solenoids - how can it determine the load on the driveline if it don't even know which gear the trans is in? There's a good reason why the factory PCM has so many inputs, granted it probably don't need every single one of them but still there's a bare minimum to make things work right, and the TransCommand inputs are well below that limit. You can achieve the same results with a variable resistor if you so wish, I had a few quick-change power resistors in my harness, and when I finally drilled the separator plate I tossed all of them out and never looked back.

i have a reading of .99vdc right now and i didn't change it because i didn't know how low i could go.

That's about as low as you can go actually, so your hands are tied in that department. Even if that were not the case, the issue you're describing would be actually made worse if you turned the FIPL voltage down. IIRC your idle FIPL reading should be between 1.0V and 1.1V, and your WOT readings should be between 3.8V and 4.3V - basically you set your idle voltage, and leave the WOT fall where it may, just as long as it's withing the proper range. The reason for the wider WOT range is that not all IPs have the same throttle arm travel, as in some can turn more than others, resulting in a higher WOT reading even tho the idle one is the same.

 

[icanfixall]

Min-max is .96 to 1.2 volts at idle settings... Warm motor.... Cold advance off... Motor not running but ignition switch in the run position..

 

[Fozz]

It is very sensitive, so once you have it where you want it, tighten it down and then test/measure it again to make sure it didn't move while you were tightening it.