This is getting old...need assistance.

[Optikalillushun]

From a simple (which is sarcasim) fuel tank R/R into a full blown truck-down-for-months repair escapade...its getting old.

Drop the rear tank, find my intank assembly is borderline usable to the R/R of the rear shackle and hangers to the parking brake cables/rear wheel seals among other planned repairs its getting old! sorry just venting. Not that i mind, its still cheaper than a truck payment and i love the old thing.

Anyway, before i attempt to do this, i have a few questions. I asked before to no real avail so ill ask again but focus on one thing at a time. I went to a local junkyard to get another intake assembly, and i found one. Problem is, the pigtail is different. So i would like to splice the old harness on the truck with the pigtail from the new one. Here is what i am dealing with (truck i got it from was a 92-94).

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("new" is on the left, old is on the right)

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(old is on the left, "new" is on the right)

Looking at the new it seems only 2 of the 4 wires are used. Should be simple enough but i want to be sure and i cant locate my 93 ford shop manual to comfirm. It also looks like im going to have to reverse how i hook up the fuel lines but that is no big deal. If all else fails ill use my old one...but im hoping it'll work.

Also broke these, oops!

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[rhkcommander]

both have yellow and black (ground)... Would probably be fine splicing them together. Doesn't look like it would need more than 1 wire. But honestly I don't know for 100% sure. I'd try it myself, take the old one apart and see if the yellow is the only one going somewhere

Just thought I'd chime in so you had a 2nd opinion

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Is the new fuel pickup assembly off a diesel truck? It pic #3 it looks like three pins are connected together on the underside of the round plate (all riveted to a narrow metal strip) - if that is indeed the case, it looks like you'll be using the gray/red and either the yellow or the black wires from the new assembly. Show a pic of the topside of the original pickup assembly, I'm pretty sure its harness goes black to black and yellow to ground... which would suggest that you should connect the black wire from the new assembly to the black wire of the old harness, and then the gray/red wire from the new assembly to the yellow wire of the old harness.

 

[Optikalillushun]

yes it was, a Cab/Chassic F-350 with an IDI.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I as asking about it being an IDI-spcific because on a gasser truck the extra wires are used for the fuel pump, whereas on an IDI I suspect they just sit there and are not used - where the harness attached to the new fuel pickup assembly ends, is there a connector there? Or you just cut it somewhere, and so there is no connector anywhere? If you do have the connector, both the male and female parts, how many wires leave its other side to become part of the chassis harness?

Also, on my observation, can you confirm the three pins are indeed connected together with that thin metal strip? Measure resistance between the black, pink, and yellow wires, if you get zero ohms between any which pair you take then they are indeed connected.

 

[Optikalillushun]

im pretty sure i i took both ends of the harness. Its snowin now so im on snow duty haha. Ill look n check tomorrow or friday.

 

[Optikalillushun]

bumping this to remind myself, smashed my left hand up pretty good (swollen) so its been a few days off of garage work. Although before i did that we did a dana 60 swap (and corresponding 10.25 swap, both with 4:10s from the 3:55s) in a friends F-250. It really is stupid simple.

 

[Optikalillushun]

Ok i finally got around to doing this. The new sender only has two wires with resistance (as was suggested). The resistance for the new one was 15 ohms empty and 161 full. The resistance for the old one was 13 empty and 160 ful so it should work, right...right? After some searching i found two possible was to connect the two ends of wiring as i couldnt find the other end for the new sender. After coming up with a plan of attack to make it look factory i went to set the new sendor in the tank to check fitment...NFG. Test fit the old sendor in the tank and after a little bending of the tabs holding the lock ring it fit like a glove, *** is going on here. Upon further inspection i notice the allignemnt tabs for the new sender and tank are slightly off, hence it not fitting correctly.

So after some muttering to myself, i decided to use the old one. It worked, although the fuel guage was way past full when full i know when i need to fill up, but its all rusted out on the top and was flaking. Im going to try some Rustoleum rust stop stuff i read about in a mag (turns the rust into a black phospate) and pray for the best. Just another F'n set back with this truck...

 

[flareside_thun]

If the alignment tabs were only slightly off, why didn't you modify them to make them slightly correct?lol Thinking of this swap myself....

 

[Optikalillushun]

Thinking back, i remember the new sender being reverse. The tab that needs to be renotched is a good bit back, about 45*. Not really wanting to start hacing stuff up at this point, because i know it'll end up boogered up with me doing it.

 

[flareside_thun]

Hmm, Diesel_Brad said he did a PSD sender swap on one of these trucks and had no issues other than having to splice the wires....Surely, Ford didn't change the alignment tabs between then....

 

[Diesel_brad]

Hmm, Diesel_Brad said he did a PSD sender swap on one of these trucks and had no issues other than having to splice the wires....Surely, Ford didn't change the alignment tabs between then....

Yes. we but we used a 94-97 PSD (stainless)sender in a 93 tank. Dont know if that makes any difference. All I had to do is splice the PSD senders pigtail to the 93 truck harness, was a direct drop in otherwise