The Repair List!

tonkadoctor

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My dealership has a huge mark up on alot of stuff.

One thing I do before going to the stealership when I absolutly have to, is go to the Powerstroke Shop and look up the parts. I then print out my "shopping cart" and take those prices to the local dealer and tell them to "match it or I will take my business elsewhere".

It works and they hate itLOL

The Powerstroke shop, IIRC, is a Ford Dealer out of Indianapolis. You can look up parts for the older trucks here too, so don't take the name at Face value.
 

mankypro

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Ok here's the of things to be done/replaced:

Steering Gear
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Drag Link
Left Inner Tie Rod
Left Outer Tie Rod
Right Outer Tie Rod
Front Axle U Joints
Front Inner Axle Seals
Front Pinion Seal
Shocks front and rear
front & rear diff service
front alignment
backup light switch
oil cooler gaskets
oil cooler o-rings
tachometer pickup sensor
all battery cables
glow plug timer
firewall repair kit (welded one)
all fluids flush and replace

by the book there's about 45 hours of work there.

and about 1500.00 simoleans in parts.
 
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BROWNIEBOY525

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i get a real good discount on parts because i work for a ford dealer so i can get motorcraft and ford parts and autozone prices:D
 

BigRigTech

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I'd say it's time to hit the local wrecking yard for a lot of that stuff....Or Kijiji in your area. I bet you could get most of the hard parts for less than $500 if you looked around, fleabay is another good place to look....Who made the list?....Might be time to find another mechanic....LOL

I buy and part out Ford trucks as a little cash business to pay for my hobbies. Right now I have 4 trucks and 2 vans for parts....If you were closer I could hook you up big-time...LOL...Ford truck parts are gold around here. I just bought a 91 F150 supercab 4x4 2 weeks ago for $200, 3.55 posi, 5spd, manual t-case, 2 mint doors, good cap, 4 good tires and etc....Made $150 back from it so far and I took the steering column and pedals for my upcoming ZF swap....I love having a buddy with a junkyard, he stores them, I strip them, he crushes whatever is left....We both make money.
 
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BigRigTech

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Four balljoints for your truck can be bought for $100 or less, "white box". If you grease them once a month they will last for many years....People **** on the old twin I beam front end for no reason, if you grease it regularly you will have zero problems with it. Grease is much cheaper than front end work.
 

BROWNIEBOY525

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have you checked any of this stuff thats on the repair list to see if it really needs to be replaced like the tie rods, ball joints and u joints. whats wrong with the steering box that it needs to be replaced?
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Yea, that steering box is a big question for me too. If its not wondering all over and isnt super tight then there isnt anything wrong with it.
 

BROWNIEBOY525

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do you mean a 1/8 of a turn of the steering wheel are your tires wearing uneven and does the truck wonder if you let go of the wheel
 
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mankypro

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I've only been able to drive it in deep snow and icy conditions. The symptom (which I assume is the reason to replace the box) is that you can turn the steering wheel in either direction a good bit and the steering does not respond until you pass a certain point.

I've rebuilt engines and transmissions when I was younger, but I've NEVER worked on suspensions - well I replaced a tie rod on a 76 bmw 525 once :)

do you mean a 1/8 of a turn of the steering wheel are your tires wearing uneven and does the truck wonder if you let go of the wheel
 

suv7734

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I've only been able to drive it in deep snow and icy conditions. The symptom (which I assume is the reason to replace the box) is that you can turn the steering wheel in either direction a good bit and the steering does not respond until you pass a certain point.

That's a common indication the box is worn. Adjusting it will only help so much 'in the center' before it start binding up 'at either end'.
I wonder if you might be well advised to run the truck in to a 4x4 shop in Boulder or Ft. Collins and have them go over it and give you an estimate just for a comparison. Ther's one there that has a good reputation but I can't think of the name right now
 

mankypro

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I've done some price checking on some parts, and on avergae the stealership is about 15% more expensive on the smaller parts about 5-10% on the larger ticket ones.

I've called around independent shops and they all average from $85-$100/hr for shop rates and the ones at the bottom of the price spectrum will not discount their shop time no matter how much time you burn. They all quote jobs "by the book time" - just like the dealer does. Most independent garages do not give you a warranty past 90 days and on parts you have to deal with the manufacturers themselves - that is the shop won't let you drive in for a failed part and get it fixed outright.

If there's one thing that's good about paying the extra $800.00 that I'm estimating Ford will charge vs. what I'd pay an independent shop is that I can drive the truck right into the dealership (7 minute drive) - can walk home - and they'll fix it no questions asked for 12 months.

Maybe I've become complacent, sheepish and lazy in my old age. :cool but I'm considering having the work done...



That's a common indication the box is worn. Adjusting it will only help so much 'in the center' before it start binding up 'at either end'.
I wonder if you might be well advised to run the truck in to a 4x4 shop in Boulder or Ft. Collins and have them go over it and give you an estimate just for a comparison. Ther's one there that has a good reputation but I can't think of the name right now
 

BROWNIEBOY525

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i would go to a good alignent or spring shop they should be able to help you out for alot more resonable price then the ford dealer. do you know that the tie rods and ball joints are bad or did the dealer just tell you they needed to be replaced
 

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