Later this summer I plan on replacing front and rear tanks in my 1994 F-350 as mine are steel showing rust and want to do plastic replacement.Anybody have any recommendation on where to get tanks that fit and you don't have to modify anything?
Tank Replacement
- Thread starter rpm427
- Start date
May i present an alternative?
Plastic in nice with the exception of its strength in comparison to metal but w/ that being said:
If the rust you see is just surface, i would clean it as i did the ones on my truck.
Now this is assuming you have a good air compressor as alot of people do (if you dont and dont want to buy/barrow one just ignore this sorry)
A harbor freight sandblaster is small and cheap and media can be bought as cheap as 7 dollars a bag
remove the tank, seal the sending unit and have at it. Shouldnt take more than a hour to clean a tank and the media is several times over recyclable. Do it outside, use a cardboard box as a cabinet and toss it when your done, wear a mask and get a head cover.
No sense in tossing a tank over a little cosmetic surface rust. If its rotty thats one thing but blast and paint is how the "pro's" do it when they do full resto's.
Ive almost completed blasting my entire frame in prep for undercoating with the very unit ive recomended, so with all this being said realize that tank or two is a tiny job compared to the capabilities of these blaster.
The blaster takes any metal (even pittedd) down to a beautiful clean metal surface.
also i deleted those stupid fitting ontop of the tank, thats just regular practice for me now when droppping these tranks, that stock setup is an overcomplicated joke engineered for fast install at the factory
Plastic in nice with the exception of its strength in comparison to metal but w/ that being said:
If the rust you see is just surface, i would clean it as i did the ones on my truck.
Now this is assuming you have a good air compressor as alot of people do (if you dont and dont want to buy/barrow one just ignore this sorry)
A harbor freight sandblaster is small and cheap and media can be bought as cheap as 7 dollars a bag
remove the tank, seal the sending unit and have at it. Shouldnt take more than a hour to clean a tank and the media is several times over recyclable. Do it outside, use a cardboard box as a cabinet and toss it when your done, wear a mask and get a head cover.
No sense in tossing a tank over a little cosmetic surface rust. If its rotty thats one thing but blast and paint is how the "pro's" do it when they do full resto's.
Ive almost completed blasting my entire frame in prep for undercoating with the very unit ive recomended, so with all this being said realize that tank or two is a tiny job compared to the capabilities of these blaster.
The blaster takes any metal (even pittedd) down to a beautiful clean metal surface.
also i deleted those stupid fitting ontop of the tank, thats just regular practice for me now when droppping these tranks, that stock setup is an overcomplicated joke engineered for fast install at the factory
I thought about that as I'm set up to do just about anything like that I can do to truck but I keep reading about how Ford put plastic tanks in these trucks from 92-94 and kinda wonder why truck didn't have one in it originally.My brother has 95 and his has plastic tanks and I wonder if someone put them in it before he got it as he don't know?My rear tank has small leak in it from tank strap and as thick as the plastic ones are seems to be a good idea as all the steel stuff rust outside in especially in the case.The cost of plastic tanks are $175 for both from several companies so thought I would get some input before I jump to see if anyone else had done the change!
yeah if you have a leak from a pin/rot hole then your on the right track. I cant say myself about the plastic tanks but i have a 93 and its metal. I personal would stick with metal for the sake of it you ever have to drop the tank with some fuel in it (weight in it) being metal they are alot strongs.
personaly if it were me i would buy metal tanks.
then give them the treatment im giving my entire trucks undercarriage as well as my other vehicles.
Metal tank new clean/scuff it and get 3m professional undercoating (the "professional" labeling is actually important to the particular undercoating, 3m does make a normal (non-professional) undercoating)
that will protect it for ever, if the undercoating ever gets dry a longlonglong time from now,products can be sprayed on the undercoating to re-soften it or more coats can be added.
Then you get an even stronger tank that lasts forever (or damn near)
either way you go, good luck
personaly if it were me i would buy metal tanks.
then give them the treatment im giving my entire trucks undercarriage as well as my other vehicles.
Metal tank new clean/scuff it and get 3m professional undercoating (the "professional" labeling is actually important to the particular undercoating, 3m does make a normal (non-professional) undercoating)
that will protect it for ever, if the undercoating ever gets dry a longlonglong time from now,products can be sprayed on the undercoating to re-soften it or more coats can be added.
Then you get an even stronger tank that lasts forever (or damn near)
either way you go, good luck
Check where the straps go. If it's pitted I'd chuck it, new tanks aren't terribly expensive. If not, sandblast or wire wheel and paint. I'd use a rust converting primer first though. This would be a good time to do the external vent mod. 5/8" hose from the tiny vent on top of tank to the top of the filler, eliminates most filling trouble. Also a 38 gal rear is more or less a bolt in replacement, may as well go that route if you need to replace the rear and it'll be bradn new no rust so you cna paint and/or undercoat to preserve it.
Personally if in doubt at all just replace them. Replacement are available for cheap and I've dealt with enough leaky pinholed tanks to not want to mess with it.
Personally if in doubt at all just replace them. Replacement are available for cheap and I've dealt with enough leaky pinholed tanks to not want to mess with it.
For the cost of the sand blaster and sand you can pic up replacements with new straps. I think I have about $140 in my tanks and straps. They are spectra. You can get them a lot of places. I got mine from Amazon.
FWIW, some single cabs apparently came with plastic tanks. My parts truck has one. Don't know if it would fit any others or not.
FWIW, some single cabs apparently came with plastic tanks. My parts truck has one. Don't know if it would fit any others or not.
RocketScott
Registered User
What I know about plastic tanks is really just hearsay so take it with a grain of salt. I have heard that they had problems with condensation. I have no idea how it works, maybe google it to see if it's a real concern or not. I think it had to do with thermal expansion.
I cleaned my front tank because of rust and it was really just a waste of time and money. I ended up just replacing it later on with one from performance radiator. They had the best deal I could find in my area. It was galvanized metal and before I put it in I sprayed it with undercoating all the way around.
I cleaned my front tank because of rust and it was really just a waste of time and money. I ended up just replacing it later on with one from performance radiator. They had the best deal I could find in my area. It was galvanized metal and before I put it in I sprayed it with undercoating all the way around.
hey dunk what are the "filling issues" your familiar with and the reason for the "mod"?
i ask because im not aware/familiar with them?
thanks
as dunk stated if its leaky toss it, ill save ANYTHING worthy of it and a leaky tank definitely is NOT WORTH IT! (as im sure you now)
rocket was your tank rotty?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I would think metal would be worse with condensation.
Just imo, but far as tanks go, plastic is actually stronger. Say something flies up and hits it, the plastic tank will give and take the hit easily. With the metal it's gonna bend or puncture.
Another option instead of a sand blaster would be some chain. Throw it in the tank and shake it around.
Can't remember the exact details on what chemicals to use.
If you're interested, now would be the time to upgrade to larger tanks. Or even a large single.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
Just imo, but far as tanks go, plastic is actually stronger. Say something flies up and hits it, the plastic tank will give and take the hit easily. With the metal it's gonna bend or puncture.
Another option instead of a sand blaster would be some chain. Throw it in the tank and shake it around.
Can't remember the exact details on what chemicals to use.
If you're interested, now would be the time to upgrade to larger tanks. Or even a large single.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
79jasper;840851J said:
in the cold there's absolutely no way a plastic tank is stronger than metal, metal willl bend in some intensive situations as plastic will always break before bending. To argue that metal is weaker than plastic is just funny
Plastic has almost no "elasticity" as metal does, it will stretch under extreme conditions unlike plastic. dont be fooled by the unexplainable opinion of plastic being stronger
further more the problem at at hand isnt rust "INSIDE" or the tank its rust outside
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you can pick up the sand blaser on sale/with a coupon for $60-$70 and the media is 7 bucks a bag. for future reference
79jasper
Chickenhawk
You're lucky I'm not a moderator here. You would've been gone long ago.
You take every little thing anyone says and argue it.
The "extreme conditions" of metal stretching will NEVER happen with a fuel tank.
Explain how I can kick a metal car door and it dents, when a plastic one pops back out with no sign of damage.
Tanks can/will/DO rust on the inside also, just not as much.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
You take every little thing anyone says and argue it.
The "extreme conditions" of metal stretching will NEVER happen with a fuel tank.
Explain how I can kick a metal car door and it dents, when a plastic one pops back out with no sign of damage.
Tanks can/will/DO rust on the inside also, just not as much.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
dude your so un-educated (like telling me in that other thread exhaust brakes dont have waste-gates
)there's a reason your not a moderator!
study the term "elasticity" and come back and tell me how plastic has better "stretching (elasticity) property than metal (steel)
I have no need to argue with you, if yu want to argue go ahead, metal has more "elasticity" than plastic. Period!
If your upset with facts take them up with "reality" not me
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you would kick out people smarter than you wouldnt you...thats why your not a mod. i had two "spats" with 2 different individuals that started it prior to me and I deleted the comment. Im sure the original thread post here would appreciate if you would keep the thread on "TOPIC"!!!!!!
