straight water in cooling system?

[dyoung14]

even with straight water in mine i see 170 degrees going down the road and 180-190 comming up the mountain

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Ok ok ill get some cheap coolant to get me by, but its not worth me buying the stuff at international because I think its just gonna leak out. I had to hammer steel rods through my oil cooler to unclog it, and I don't want to do that again!!

-Jon

 

[idiabuse]

even with straight water in mine i see 170 degrees going down the road and 180-190 comming up the mountain

water temperature is just that, what is the water jacket temperature?
Ever run clean out of water and the temp gauge reads cold?

Javier

 

[icanfixall]

Why yes I have completely run out of coolant pulling a steep grade. A poorly installed freeze plug poped out of my new motor... No coolant.... No temp on gauge... Burns down a motor quickly.... Pistons swell and stick to the cylinders... Oil temp will pass 330 degrees and the lifters will clatter like they are not getting any oil... Things will go bad in a hurry....

 

[SparkandFire]

When the 300D was ran without coolant, the temp gauge showed cold too...

That was until i found out that some little ***** had unhooked it to screw some unsuspecting idiot into buying a car with no coolant...


The trick worked, and I melted the engine down in short order.

Once I found the temp wire unhooked, I reconnected it and it shot all the way up to the top of the range.


I am runnining straight water until I get the oil cooler issue resolved (no sense in wasting $80 of coolant just to contaminate it with water)

Perhaps my rust issues are being nulled by the oil in circulation?

 

[idiabuse]

Why yes I have completely run out of coolant pulling a steep grade. A poorly installed freeze plug poped out of my new motor... No coolant.... No temp on gauge... Burns down a motor quickly.... Pistons swell and stick to the cylinders... Oil temp will pass 330 degrees and the lifters will clatter like they are not getting any oil... Things will go bad in a hurry....

Ur oil lost it's viscosity at only 330F?

I hope I have no related issues like you had, I also trusted a machine shop to do the the freeze plugs, but this is a well respected diesel machine service.
Motor Service Miami Fl.
Anyway I waited till I could afford what I wanted, Evans coolant, AMSOIL lubricants, on my new engine, so far no leaks from the engine or coolant system.
http://www.ranchopower.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Picture-0031.jpg

No more oil changes or buying coolant for my beastie

Here is my whole history of the build

http://www.ranchopower.com/my-7-3-idi-turbo-diesel-build/

Javier

 

[RLDSL]

Providing you have proper corrosion protection water is a better coolant than *regular* antifreeze . That water pump lube and anti rust compound would be fine, although I would run the pressure cap as it does increase your boiling point which is critical Straight water boils at 212 each pound of pressure increases your boiling point, just like a pressure cooker. In So CA lots of folks used to run straight water with the above mentioned compounds who never went to the mountains in the winter, just no reason to have antifreeze. regular antifreeze may raise your boiling point, but what they fail to mention is that it also raises your temperature MORE than it raises your boiling point, fully negating any benefit in that department.
Now Evans Waterless Coolant is a whole different game. It changes all teh rules with that stuff you don't have to presurize it and you get a 375 deg boiling point , it does raise your temp a little, but with that much margin for error, it's kind of a joke, because as long aas it's not boiling there are not irregular hot spots and not cracking or warping

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Providing you have proper corrosion protection water is a better coolant than *regular* antifreeze . That water pump lube and anti rust compound would be fine, although I would run the pressure cap as it does increase your boiling point which is critical Straight water boils at 212 each pound of pressure increases your boiling point, just like a pressure cooker. In So CA lots of folks used to run straight water with the above mentioned compounds who never went to the mountains in the winter, just no reason to have antifreeze. regular antifreeze may raise your boiling point, but what they fail to mention is that it also raises your temperature MORE than it raises your boiling point, fully negating any benefit in that department.
Now Evans Waterless Coolant is a whole different game. It changes all teh rules with that stuff you don't have to presurize it and you get a 375 deg boiling point , it does raise your temp a little, but with that much margin for error, it's kind of a joke, because as long aas it's not boiling there are not irregular hot spots and not cracking or warping

so a bottle of water wetter should hold me off till fall? the reason i disabled the cap is i'm afraid the pressure will spring a leak in one of the several "fixes" smooged on my rad.....

thanks!
-Jon

 

[RLDSL]

so a bottle of water wetter should hold me off till fall? the reason i disabled the cap is i'm afraid the pressure will spring a leak in one of the several "fixes" smooged on my rad.....

thanks!
-Jon

Yea, it'll do, Try a 7 lb cap, it'll at least keep it from belching on you. I think you can even find a 3 lb if you look around.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

How do you feel about running water with Prestone Super Cleaner? It says to use water but everyone is against running water since it will not help with corrosion?

 

[WrickM]

RLDSL do you have the hookup for the Evans coolant as well as the amsoil?

 

[6.9poweredscout]

poured a bottle of coolant additive in it yesterday, it wasn't the redline stuff, there was no "diesel" redline there but a similar product for diesels.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-040204/ (<-thats it) should be good till fall now......

-Jon

 

[damac]

What is the word on soldering these old radiators? I got our clunker late last year and developed a couple cracks and one hole where a bolt got stuck in the bottom tray and rubbed through.

The hole I hit up and it hasn't leaked there since, but up top I have had 2 areas that are about a thumbnails width that expand/seep as the truck heats up to cap pressure. It was making it look like the reservoir hose was loose, but I caught it bubbling and hissing one hot day with the hood open.

I have heard the radiator make some nasty crackling noises around my previous solder job that seemed to hold for a few months. I had to redo that one, and last week I just patched another up top.

Now I don't trust the process. Did my solder job suck that much, or is the hairline fracture the wrong application?

 

[The Warden]

FWIW I made a nice hole in my radiator back in 2004 when the water pump fell down onto it I took it to a guy who's a professional precision welder and is VERY good at what he does, and it took a few hours and countless attempts to get it to mostly seal up. Even then, he didn't really trust it to hold up in daily use...I don't know if it was the age of the radiator (it was original) or if it was something about the material used in the core, but the solder just flat-out didn't want to stick to it.

Ended up replacing the radiator...

 

[6.9poweredscout]

if it's on the tanks its easy, i soldered a waterneck back on i tore off, and a cracked waterneck. i used the plumbers solder and a blow torch. i cleaned the paint off and got the brass (?) shiny, then heated the area with the torch, once the solder would melt as i touched the metal i soldered the joints back together. 2 things make sure the METAL IS CLEAN! and heat only the metal, if the solder is hotter than the metal it'll run off like water on oil. take you time and good luck!

-Jon