Storing Engine/Transmission Long Term?

[tbryanh]

Personally, I would buy a can of LPS 3 premier rust inhibitor and coat entire engine inside & out. I used this product on my reman engine and it worked excellent. It's about $20 a can but worth it IMO. My engine sat in a fairly moist environment for about 8 months and didn't rust at all. Also kept an engine bag over it. It's a wax base product and takes mineral spirits to remove when your ready to assemble engine.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612

So you mean to take the oil pan and cylinder heads off and spray the engine inside and out?

 

[tbryanh]

Diesel fuel is Hydroscopic, that is it absorbs water. Before the last time you run the engine, fill the filter with ATF, then run the engine for about 3 - 4 minutes so the ATF goes thru the IP and injectors, that washes all the diesel fuel out. You can even,(after filling the filter with ATF) put a hose from the lift pump into a quart of ATF. When the engine stops, you know it has run out of ATF as a fuel.
Take the wire off the IP FSS so it can't/won't start.
Drain the oil pan, leave plug out for a day or two, put plug back in, add four quarts (room temp.) of SAE 50W oil, Pull the oil filter, empty it then fill it with 50W, put it back on. Without starting the engine, turn it over with the starter 2 -3 times in 20 second spurts, cool a couple of minutes between starts, that replaces all the old bearing oil, which can be acidic. The old oil left in the oil cooler will replace the fresh oil in the filter.

Drain the coolant, be sure and pull the block drain plugs, one on each side. Remove the t'stat. Plug the radiator hose ports after draining.

IDIoit idea of pulling the heads and doing as he said is good insurance for a long term storage. A little work, but just do it.

***Nothing has to be done to the transmission, just leave the oil in it***

, that is if it's not burnt, but plug/seal the lines that go to a oil cooler. Since your going to scrap the
truck, just cut the lines close to trans, crimp and fold back to seal.

This is some excellent info.

I plan to separate the transmission from the engine, and I am wondering if I will lose the transmission fluid in the process.

Seems the torque converter will stay with the engine when the transmission is separated and fluid will leak out.

Any way to prevent losing the fluid?

 

[OLDBULL8]

The torque converter can't loose the fluid unless it's turned with the shaft facing down, might loose some fluid wrestling the engine around. New TC's come with a cap over the shaft, might get one from a trans rebuild place. Ford garage?

I'd remove the TC and store it separate, might damage it when pulling the trans if still connected to the engine. There pretty heavy so be carefull, weigh about 40 50 lbs when full of 6 qts of fluid.

So you mean to take the oil pan and cylinder heads off and spray the engine inside and out?

NO NO don't do that.

 

[Waystro]

I just updated my profile. I am in Houston, TX now.

I'd be interested in the van if ya sell it.

 

[tbryanh]

. . .I'd remove the TC and store it separate, might damage it when pulling the trans if still connected to the engine. . . .

I plan to pull the transmission first. It seems you are indicating to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel first, then pull the transmission while keeping the torque converter engaged with the transmission. Is this correct? If so, then there must be a dust cover on the underside of the bell housing to get access to the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel. Is there a dust cover?

 

[OLDBULL8]

After removing all the shift rods, kick down rod and Vacuum line, here is how to remove the trans.

Yes, there is a dust cover between the engine and trans. You probably have the cast iron flywheel, there is 4 holes in it to reach the TC nut's (nut's take a 1/2' socket), use a 3" deep socket and a short 1" extension with a ratchet, nuts are on with a Loctite so they break loose hard, make sure the socket is well seated on the nut, nut's are kind of tapered and easy to round them off. You can turn the engine over using a big screw driver on the starter ring gear, turn until a hole almost disappears on drivers side, you'll see what I mean.

To remove the trans, you have to or should use a trans jack with the trans fastened to it. Unbolt the trans from the engine. Unbolt the trans from the cross member, remove the drive shaft, remove the cross member, slide the trans back, make sure the TC stays with the trans, then slide the TC off the trans, like said it's very heavy, the input shaft may come out with the TC. See pic.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Someone had pics of the C6 trans flywheel a short time ago when they couldn't get the nuts off the TC and rounded them off. You might do a search for that or they might chime in.

 

[IDIoit]

ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE TC FROM THE FLEXPLATE!
the only time you dont, is when the engine is locked up.
for obvious reasons.

depending on the type of slipyoke/flange, a 2wd will leak some fluid out of the tailshaft, and the dipstick tube hole after you pull the tube.

 

[tbryanh]

After removing all the shift rods, kick down rod and Vacuum line, here is how to remove the trans.

Yes, there is a dust cover between the engine and trans. You probably have the cast iron flywheel, there is 4 holes in it to reach the TC nut's (nut's take a 1/2' socket), use a 3" deep socket and a short 1" extension with a ratchet, nuts are on with a Loctite so they break loose hard, make sure the socket is well seated on the nut, nut's are kind of tapered and easy to round them off. You can turn the engine over using a big screw driver on the starter ring gear, turn until a hole almost disappears on drivers side, you'll see what I mean.

To remove the trans, you have to or should use a trans jack with the trans fastened to it. Unbolt the trans from the engine. Unbolt the trans from the cross member, remove the drive shaft, remove the cross member, slide the trans back, make sure the TC stays with the trans, then slide the TC off the trans, like said it's very heavy, the input shaft may come out with the TC. See pic.

I had no idea the TC needs to stay with the trans when separating the trans from the engine. I'll be careful with the nuts holding the TC to the flywheel. I'll probably use penetrating oil to help soften up any rust on the threads.

Do the threads have blue loctite on them?

 

[riotwarrior]

I had no idea the TC needs to stay with the trans when separating the trans from the engine. I'll be careful with the nuts holding the TC to the flywheel. I'll probably use penetrating oil to help soften up any rust on the threads.

Do the threads have blue loctite on them?

Just yanked a 4wd C6 outta the Blue Ox.

Yes...YES YES remove the 4 TC bolts holding tc to flywheel.

Me and my personal experience would suggest doing this opposite of starter side.

So it takes a certain skill and feel however its relatively simple.

Ooops gotta go..will come back edit instructions / methodology I use...

At doc office gotta go

E D I T.

Remove flex plate cover an with 1/2" socket you can get the bolts off. I GET MY SOCKET ON THEN UP AGAINST THE ENGINE AND WHACK RATCHET HANDLE...JUST LOOSENING NUT....then I use a screw driver on fly wheel and move it enough I can ratchet away.

With socket held tight against nut and up against block the block becomes a psuedo fullcrum to stop flywheel turning and allow one to crack nut loose....then by moving it down there is tons of room to ratchet away to remove it.

It is my method...a very practiced skill and works well...to describe it not so much lol.

Good luch and have fun most of all.

 

[trackspeeder]

I plan to pull the transmission first. It seems you are indicating to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel first, then pull the transmission while keeping the torque converter engaged with the transmission. Is this correct? If so, then there must be a dust cover on the underside of the bell housing to get access to the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel. Is there a dust cover?

Always remove the converter with the tranny. Unbolt the converter first. Then remove the tranny.

If you leave the converter attached to the flexplate. You will damage the pump when removing the tranny..

 

[DaveBen]

Always remove the converter with the tranny. Unbolt the converter first. Then remove the tranny.

If you leave the converter attached to the flexplate. You will damage the pump when removing the tranny..

That is the way I always do it.

Dave

 

[riotwarrior]

That is the way I always do it.

Dave

Well thats ambiguous do you leave tc on engine or remove it with trans ....

 

[tbryanh]

To add a wee bit to this some of fqncy silica cat litter in a couple of socks tied up makes nice desicant to place in intake and exhaust if you dont open emgine.

Sounds interesting. Is this to keep the inside of the engine dry so it won't rust? Does everything need to be airtight for the silica to work? How often does the silica need to be changed?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Geez.