Starting issues after solenoid relay replaced
- Thread starter WrightWay
- Start date
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Andy,
You are correct.
So starting with the lock cylinder makes sense. Likely much easier than the linkage in between. Also guessing not a lot of money. (If it was $100 for maybe, that would be a different story.)
Likely it will fix or help fix the issue. (Buy you some time till the linkage wears out more.) If not the you only have one part more to buy.
Also if that does not work perfect, you can try to shim the actuator hole, guessing after 450k mi it’s wallowed out a bit. So maybe a little piece of rubber on one side. (So it pushes the ignition switch to the start position as much as possible.) It might buy you some time till you find a actuator arm. But likely the new switch and lock cylinder will take up enough slack that it will work.
Let us know how it turns out.
You are correct.
So starting with the lock cylinder makes sense. Likely much easier than the linkage in between. Also guessing not a lot of money. (If it was $100 for maybe, that would be a different story.)
Likely it will fix or help fix the issue. (Buy you some time till the linkage wears out more.) If not the you only have one part more to buy.
Also if that does not work perfect, you can try to shim the actuator hole, guessing after 450k mi it’s wallowed out a bit. So maybe a little piece of rubber on one side. (So it pushes the ignition switch to the start position as much as possible.) It might buy you some time till you find a actuator arm. But likely the new switch and lock cylinder will take up enough slack that it will work.
Let us know how it turns out.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
FWIW, the line that is cast into the housing is supposed to line up with the slot in the actuator with the key in the run position. Just maybe a bit of useful info if you want to cross check yourself along the way.
WrightWay
Registered User
Thanks all. I returned the starter relay(fender solenoid) and was an even trade $wise for lock cylinder (Standard brand), so I'll try the lock cylinder today. And take a look at that mark with key in on position. Saw that line that is cast into the housing and a couple other permanent pen marks around that slot. ??
I'll check it out further if needed, and the shim idea Big Bart has mentioned.
If not I'll go with the push button for getting the starter fired. With all the help for many, I have that figured out.
Thanks to you all for the time and patience walking me through this. I learned a lot about this truck in the process and I'll keep you posted.
I'll check it out further if needed, and the shim idea Big Bart has mentioned.
If not I'll go with the push button for getting the starter fired. With all the help for many, I have that figured out.
Thanks to you all for the time and patience walking me through this. I learned a lot about this truck in the process and I'll keep you posted.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
It is tough when you have more than one issue going on like you did. (Ignition switch, starter soleniod, and actuator/key cylinder.) But you will prevail and next time you have starting issues you will know how to better test on your own.
Let us know how it turns out.
Let us know how it turns out.
WrightWay
Registered User
Finally fixed here. Replaced key lock cylinder and no change. Wired a push button in with hot from battery side of starter relay and spliced in the connector to the top small post on relay.
Knew I did not have the skill to take the column apart to fix the actuator.
Worked a few times then would not start/no crank. Ran 12V to solenoid on starter and it worked fine. 12V to small top post on starter relay just clicked, no crank. Then replaced the old Motocraft starter relay with new one from Ford dealer and all works perfect.
Great to have it rolling.
Appreciate everyone's help, learned a lot. Fortunately I had time to work through this frustracting set of issues.
Knew I did not have the skill to take the column apart to fix the actuator.
Worked a few times then would not start/no crank. Ran 12V to solenoid on starter and it worked fine. 12V to small top post on starter relay just clicked, no crank. Then replaced the old Motocraft starter relay with new one from Ford dealer and all works perfect.
Great to have it rolling.
Appreciate everyone's help, learned a lot. Fortunately I had time to work through this frustracting set of issues.
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Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Glad you figured it out and found a solution.
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