Source for CDR valve?

82F100SWB

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I serviced my truck this afternoon, and replaced the injector return lines on the pass side, was the first time I've had it running with the air cleaner off for quite some time, and I noticed that it was pulling a fair bit of oil through the CDR, I had noticed my oil consumption had increased considerably since the last change, used probably a gallon and a half in 6000 miles, compared to the normal 2-3 quarts.
I pulled the CDR off, and it as far as I can tell is stuck open. I let it sit in carb cleaner for a good hour or more while I was greasing the truck et al, to no avail. Nothing is moving in that thing. I don't particularly care to swap to a RDT, but, I could if a CDR is a PITA to find.

Also, out of curosity, is there a turbo setup that leaves the CDR in the stock position and requires a new hole in the valley pan for the oil drain? There is what looks to be a 3/4" hole about 2" behind the hole for the CDR in my valley pan, all sealed up with silicone.
 

highest_vision

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If I remember correctly, the low vacuum at idle will seat the cdr. If it functions anything like your average crankcase ventialtion system, it doesn't matter where it's stuck as long as it is open. It needs to work most of the time (off idle). Course I could be off my rocker on the actual op...
The thing you see just behind the cdr drain I believe is the valley pan drain. Off to the backside of the block. Don't know why it would be all sealed up. Maybe plugged with crap?
James
 

82F100SWB

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This hole definatley goes through the valley pan, just like the CDR drain. It's been sealed up with silicone.

As for my CDR, it is definatley not seating... I can see it sucking oil into the intake at idle. Unless my engine suddenly developed a ton of blowby out of nowhere, but, I don't see that happening without a change in how it runs or it's power.
 

Diesel JD

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still available at Ford and IH

Well, if you're pretty sure you haven't holed a piston or busted a ring all of a sudden, then I would just replace it. They are easy enough to find at IH or Ford. Give IH your part# and they can track it down, otherwise they will act like they don't understand what you're talking about if you usay CDR or even Ford's name "crankcase vent adapter" At Ford they will have access to one. I believe there may even be an aftermarket source. The thing is you will spend $35-50 for one, but if that's what you need, it's what you need.
 

zigg

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This hole definatley goes through the valley pan, just like the CDR drain. It's been sealed up with silicone.

As for my CDR, it is definatley not seating... I can see it sucking oil into the intake at idle. Unless my engine suddenly developed a ton of blowby out of nowhere, but, I don't see that happening without a change in how it runs or it's power.

The hole that you refer to that is filled with silicone is the valley drain. It should not be sealed. It is meant to channel water and/or diesel that leaks down onto the valley out/over the back of the engine. There is a nut for lack of a better word with a 3/8" socket fitting in the hole. It is there to help hold the valley pan in place, but is hollow and the oil/water in the valley is meant to drain down through this unit. It should not be plugged with silicone!!!

As to the CDR. Our engines tend to show more blow-by at idle. So, if you see oily vapour passing through the CDR valve at idle, that's normal. If you rev it a bit(1500rpm or so) you should see the blow-by diminish. When the CDR is NOT operating normally, it will shut off and there will be nothing passing through it. If you see vapour coming through it, then it is operating normally.
There is nothing inside the thing but a diaphragm, and a spring, and it is normally open, and is only meant to snap shut should the intake become obstructed!

..CDR valve insides..
..CDR drawing...

Blow-by and oil consumption is a sign of overall engine condition, and is not related in any way to operation/function of the CDR valve!!

Zigg :)
 

Black dawg

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you can test the cdr with a small shopvac on the intake side, there should be good airflow through the valve, then slowly block the crankcase side with your hand. when you have it mostly blocked you should feel the valve restrict the airflow to almost nothing then remove your hand and make sure the valve returns to open. cleaning the valve with gas makes them operate much better if they are real dirty. make sure that all the gas is out and has evaporated before you reinstall the valve. the cdr has nothing to do with oil consumption unless it is stuck open and the air filter is real dirty almost plugged.
 

zigg

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The hole that you refer to that is filled with silicone is the valley drain. It should not be sealed. It is meant to channel water and/or diesel that leaks down onto the valley out/over the back of the engine. There is a nut for lack of a better word with a 3/8" socket fitting in the hole. It is there to help hold the valley pan in place, but is hollow and the oil/water in the valley is meant to drain down through this unit. It should not be plugged with silicone!!!

Just found a pic of this area. You can see the nut with the hole in it, and the opening for where the CDR valve should go. That nut should not be plugged, as it drains down the back of the engine.

..Poke here...

Zigg :)
 

h2odrx

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will the rubber in the diaphraghm (sp) be affected by cleaning?:confused:






Zigg did you look at the post about the parts you wanted???
 

Mr_Roboto

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A CDR does not work the same as a PCV valve. The CDR's job is to limit flow at high RPM (vacuum) it is open at idle.

There is a small hole on the back of the valve, this is the atmosphere vent. If you put your mouth over this hole and suck (or blow, I forget!), you can hear the valve closing.

Just buy a new one at Ford, IH or your parts store if they can find the right part, then clean it regularly. Start with a known good part.
 

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