SOS!!! park failed, rolled back into road, jacked knifed trailer, damage!!!!

Nero

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There's this rv place in Milwaukee called Affordable RVing, they may have a surplus toilet for cheaper. That's where we've been getting parts for my dad's rv conversion project.
 

Cubey

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There's this rv place in Milwaukee called Affordable RVing, they may have a surplus toilet for cheaper. That's where we've been getting parts for my dad's rv conversion project.

Thanks for the lead. I checked their website and they have the exact one I have now (Dometic 310, porcelain bowl), for $215. That's still considered cheap for that model. It's $231 on Amazon.

Someone up here in Chehalis has a new in box Thetford version of the Dometic 310, with high profile and ceramic bowl for $50. Hard to beat that. Gonna go pick it up tomorrow, if it's not actually busted or something. It's $202 on Amazon, so $50 is a steal if it's not damaged. It looks way harder to replace the water valve if it goes bad compared to Dometic's version, but oh well. I'll have to do something about the water hookup line too since it's not in the same position as on Dometic, but a trip to Home Depot for 1/2" to 1/2" threaded union and a flexible supply line will solve that.

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Cubey

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I did spend $8 on JB weld plastic epoxy and it looks like it might hold short term. At least long enough to get a new toilet, if I'm careful with it. Oh and both sides are busted, not just one side.

Also spent $8 for this to plug up the grey side of the dump tee that got busted. But now I can hook up a hose and dump the black tank without it trying to come out the grey side of the tee, because that's all gonna have to come apart for replacing the tee later on.

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Nero

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Dang you didn't waste any time rollin' those frame wheels!
 

Cubey

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Dang you didn't waste any time rollin' those frame wheels!

I told you it was bad about dragging. But then again the casters do hang down more than the skids, but IMO it's better this way since it helps protect the silly chrome generator exhaust tip welded on. Plus the trailer might not drag as much on a crappy driveway. It's much less noisy with them rolling instead of the skids dragging.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I was trying to figure out what that was. I was thinking "wheelie bars". What are they for?
The back of his RV sticks out way past the rear wheels and it drags on the ground when he goes up something like a driveway. The wheels are to keep it from dragging on the ground. It's been almost 3 years since I've seen it and I don't remember what part actually drags.
 

Cubey

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I was trying to figure out what that was. I was thinking "wheelie bars". What are they for?

It's so the rear bumper/hitch of the RV doesn't drag on steep slopes. Without the rollers, it used to just drag on those V shaped skids.


The epoxy worked for one side of the old toilet but not the other. Oh well. It got me through the night, so $8 was cheaper than an RV park or motel room.

Like I kind of figured, the toilet I mentioned above was used, not new. It was obvious when I checked it from the underside. It has been cleaned quite well, I admit. Kind of crappy that the old lady tried to pass it off as new though. Just be freaking honest, folks. I said out loud how it was used and she said nothing. It is the model shown on the box, at least.

I bought it anyway because I needed a freaking toilet. It has one defect, which isn't that horrible; the seal for the bowl lets water sitting in the bowl drain down to the tank. It's slow so it's usable as-is. My old one did that until I replaced the seal. It didn't have the flange/floor seal with it either, but the one I have fits, it's a universal part, so yeah. I have it installed and it works fine otherwise. It flushes much better than the Dometic one did, but it's much harder to repair/maintain so I guess there's always a trade-off.

The insurance adjustor called. Basically I have the RV value set (way too) low (a bit over 1/4 of the value they see it as...) so due to that, he can get around totaling it. What they are obligated to pay out based on my stated value is less than they would have otherwise had to pay if I had it set higher, so basically the insurance company is happy to pay a smaller amount, and I don't have to worry about it being totaled since I obviously want to keep it and repair it. There is a bonus to that, since it's not being totaled, I can keep full coverage on it, so if it gets stolen, burns down, or I run head on into a pole, I'll still get something out of it. The only way it might be problematic is if a future accident happens in the same spot. Then they'd want tons of proof of how much was repaired from this time.

The trailer is another matter, it'll end up totaled, and I need to contact the Arkansas DMV to see what problems may arise from that, being so far out of state. They might "suspend" the permanent registration until it's repaired/inspected by AR state police, if that's how AR does it. Then again they might not care due to it's age and value. Who knows? I'll get to keep it regardless, but I might have that pesky legal issue with the registration. I'll have to just call and find out when I get good cell reception again. Not today, it's horrible at this free camp I'm at for the night. Was gonna stay longer but nope I want my internet. LOL

Oh and they can do direct deposit, so I don't have to worry about a paper check. Hooray.
 

Cubey

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Oh and a bonus, I got stuck in mud when trying to leave a state park (day use) earlier. I was ALMOST back on the pavement when the drivers side rear got bogged down. Between my Goodyear rubber grip mats, some RV leveling blocks, and a long wide scrap piece of wood that a ranger/maintenance guy went and fetched with this state park service bed pickup, we got it out. Fun times!
 

Cubey

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Well I got paid today for the RV side of the claim. They have a way to push it onto a bank/credit union debit card (can't be credit card, prepaid debit, etc) so I opted for that since it's almost instant. Direct deposit would have taken 2-4 days.

The trailer portion of the claim is more complicated due to it being more severe damage to the entire thing, so I'll be hearing back about that next week.

For the time being, I paid off the CU credit card that I used to buy the GVOD accessories (controller, yoke, etc) so I never got charged any interest on that, due to the billing cycle dates. I'll pay off the other card that I had to run up a lot on (motel, the replacement tank, other repair parts) with another big chunk of it. The rest got put in savings for now.

Now I'm tempted to continue with my original plan to head back towards Arkansas, pull the truck out, sell it, drop off the trailer in the back yard where the truck currently sits, and go out without anything being pulled. And then start hunting for a classic VW Beetle in my travels to pull behind the motorhome, like I have been considering doing. Between the trailer payout and selling the truck, I should be able to buy something pretty decent and have some left over to fix anything it might need. And maybe still have some money in savings, too.
 

Jesus Freak

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And then start hunting for a classic VW Beetle in my travels to pull behind the motorhome, like I have been considering doing. Between the trailer payout and selling the truck, I should be able to buy something pretty decent and have some left over to fix anything it might need. And maybe still have some money in savings, too.
Have you talked to Lucy about this? Will the VW bug have a 7.3idi conversion? If you do a bug get a super Beatle so you have more room and a smoother ride, but I'd say get a early 80s Mazda truck with a diesel and put a camper shell on it. Then you'd stay with the diesel theme, it's light weight, and you could have storage.
 

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