SOS!!! park failed, rolled back into road, jacked knifed trailer, damage!!!!

Cubey

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I agree. But for a $1000 that's a fine starting point.
You know that hood looks sweeeet out in front of that RV!
Plus the cab over is sagging. It's probably all wood framing. It probably needs several people and a workshop to fix usable.

Mine has a steel skeleton so it's a bit more rugged and resistant to collapsing in from rot.
 

Jesus Freak

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But it says Ford on the hood! Eventually everything falls apart, but I can fix anything.
Anyways, can'twrite and I need someone to vicariously live through. I maintain a farm and a family.
 

Cubey

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Regarding the parking brake, this is what was left after it came apart.

The pedal cable end, not broken:
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The equalizer part did break:

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I just ordered one of these that hopefully will be compatible:

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It should be like this:
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Cant Write

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Cubey..... I am not liking your attitude :mad: !!!

You need to STOP talking yourself out of this "little brother" and START thinking about your family!!! Your E-350 and F-250 never knew they had an older brother!!! And he does have one schexxy hood!!

Jesus Freak and I support you in your decision to breathe new life into it!!!!!

I have a family and a wife to maintain :D ...... oh and these silly things called jobs :rolleyes:.

Straight axle swap it (4x4), rebuild it, and I'll buy it from you!!
 

Cubey

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In all honesty, I am really sorry about your luck with the park pin not holding and the e-brake snapping. That is no fun and you seem to have accepted it with resilience and good spirit.

Not much else I can do. It's a parking gear and pawl on the C6. The dash cam captured it happening. It began clunking and shaking as it was slowly letting go of the gear, before it totally let go.

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The gear and pawl are still working, I can tell on hills when I make sure it's in park, but it could have shaved off a bit of metal. The pan will be dropped soon so that can be checked for metal.

It looks like a case of it just not quite engaging fully in park and taking about 5 seconds before it began letting go, after I was already outside.

The worst thing, from a daily life standpoint, is the grey tank (can't shower). I need to double check the measurements, but I think a new $100 shipped tank will fit the hangers and space. It's the same exact one I got for the black tank that was missing.

Worst part for doing the other repairs is the bumper, since I can't pull out the fiberglass to line it back up with the bumper shoved in like it is.

The trailer? Well I'm going to have to do a lot of fiberglass work on that. I think I'm going to use some wood bracing inside for the short term between the walls and floor. 1x2 is all it needs, nothing expensive. The frame isn't damaged, just the box, so i just have to keep the box from coming anymore loose. It's all cocked to the side still and has been letting rain in, so i might have to replace the plywood floor again this winter if it decides to decay quickly.
 

Cant Write

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That is so funny!!!! My wife and I were laughing out loud!!!

I don't know per the rules if I should ask here or your other thread, but how is the trans working out? besides the P issues. did you hook up the factory cooler?
 

franklin2

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Not much else I can do. It's a parking gear and pawl on the C6. The dash cam captured it happening. It began clunking and shaking as it was slowly letting go of the gear, before it totally let go.

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The gear and pawl are still working, I can tell on hills when I make sure it's in park, but it could have shaved off a bit of metal. The pan will be dropped soon so that can be checked for metal.

It looks like a case of it just not quite engaging fully in park and taking about 5 seconds before it began letting go, after I was already outside.

The worst thing, from a daily life standpoint, is the grey tank (can't shower). I need to double check the measurements, but I think a new $100 shipped tank will fit the hangers and space. It's the same exact one I got for the black tank that was missing.

Worst part for doing the other repairs is the bumper, since I can't pull out the fiberglass to line it back up with the bumper shoved in like it is.

The trailer? Well I'm going to have to do a lot of fiberglass work on that. I think I'm going to use some wood bracing inside for the short term between the walls and floor. 1x2 is all it needs, nothing expensive. The frame isn't damaged, just the box, so i just have to keep the box from coming anymore loose. It's all cocked to the side still and has been letting rain in, so i might have to replace the plywood floor again this winter if it decides to decay quickly.
Even if you get the parking brake working as it should, I have never had one that held very good backwards. I am sure you have had a vehicle where you have forgotten to release the parking brake, put it in reverse, backed right up like nothing was wrong and then went to go forward and it would not go because the parking brake was still on.

I know it would be a pain, but if you are on a hill in a iffy situation, I would get out some wedge blocks and put them behind at least one of the tires in the back to keep it from rolling, just like the electric companies and others do when they park. That rv is heavy, especially when the tanks have some thing in them, including the fresh water tank.

Once you get the old bumper off, you could make you a real bumper out of a piece of channel iron. If you are bouncing around the country, maybe someone on here has a piece laying around and would be willing to weld some mounting ears on it for you to mount it for a small fee.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I know it would be a pain, but if you are on a hill in a iffy situation, I would get out some wedge blocks and put them behind at least one of the tires in the back to keep it from rolling, just like the electric companies and others do when they park.
I was just going to mention this.
 

Cubey

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I know it would be a pain, but if you are on a hill in a iffy situation, I would get out some wedge blocks and put them behind at least one of the tires in the back to keep it from rolling, just like the electric companies and others do when they park. That rv is heavy, especially when the tanks have some thing in them, including the fresh water tank.

Yeah but at least it'll be there. It might have slowed it down a hair so I could have gotten in. Who knows?

The waste tank is only $85. I already know they are legit because I bought one from them to replace the missing black tank. Same one for grey: https://www.classacustoms.com/WT-2400-WASTE-TANK-24-Gallon-Water-Holding-Tank-WT-2400_p_329.html

In other news, the expensive RV toilet got busted at it's base where it mounts to the floor flange. :mad: I guess a heavy water smacked into during the accident. It's bloody expensive new, $180: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Standard-Height-Toilet-White/dp/B007TQJTFK

I'm gonna see if I can get a good used one from the RV salvage yard on Tuesday. In the meantime, I'll just have to stay near a bathroom. Since I'll be going to rest areas for the nights, that should be fine.

I'm almost done at storage, one more load to go. That trailer is gonna be PACKED! Especially with the trailer's spare tire, but hopefully that will be addressed soon so it can be put back on the tongue. The flat bar mount needs to be de-mangled and welded back to the support bracket.

The trailer REALLY needs attention in general, but that'll have to wait until Monday, when I can go park at a big box hardware store so I can empty the trailer 3/4 of the way so I can get inside and work on bracing it up. Gonna go a step further and put some D rings on the floor so I can secure the boxes with ratchet straps, so maybe they won't shift and lean against the walls.

Oh and check this out, I was able to make room for the Ikea shelf from storage. Yay, now I can store some heavy hobby stuff in it. LOL I need to secure it to the floor/wall so it can't tip over, put a back on it so stuff can't fall out the back, and rig up bungees on the front so stuff can't slide out. The camp chair and step stool fit behind the shelf.

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Cubey

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I don't know per the rules if I should ask here or your other thread, but how is the trans working out? besides the P issues. did you hook up the factory cooler?

Not yet. I will be on Monday, possibly. I have my air compressor now, and I finally turned in 2 old lead acid batteries to O'Reilly for $20 total in store credit, so I'll get a can of Kooler Kleen and try it, after I blow it first with air and some brake cleaner several times in both directions. It seems like it's shifting weird sometimes but maybe I need to back out the kickdown screw a bit, since maybe that's the issue. It does kickdown now but the pedal must be at the floor. It has some odd resistance toward the end of the pedal travel, not related to the kickdown linkage.

I have to finish with storage tomorrow, but I might have enough time to stop somewhere and clean out the cooler, even if it's at a rest area since I like to get there by 6 or 7. I'll see about picking up the Kooler Kleen in the morning on the way to storage. I should have grabbed it when I was turning in the batteries, but it slipped my mind.
 

Cubey

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Dang, Lucy looks just absolutely stoked to be involved in your photos :D

More like "What on earth are you doing?! It was already cramped in here!! now you bring in actual furniture?!"

I swear, she makes faces on purpose. When I was making her stop to take a pic at the petrified forest, this is the shot I got.

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Cubey

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I had to do this to the trailer for now. It's not super secure but it'll have to do for a day. It's better than it was. That ratchet strap is keeping the front of the box from being cocked to the passenger side like it wants to be with rather great force. I will put a bigger diameter eye bolt, if not two plus another strap, so it can stay in the correct position until I can spend more time messing with it. The block of wood isn't really helping anything which was my original plan.

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